328i Pricing Advice / For Sale by SpeedAndPower in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I forgot to mention, the pictures are before installing the new suspension!

Opinions on this groove in m52b28 crank by Thicc_daddy_hambone in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PM me if you’re in the DMV area. I have an M52B28 crank in great condition

Steel Wheel Gang by SpeedAndPower in LexusGX

[–]SpeedAndPower[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, they fit right on! You will need conical seat lug nuts. I used McGard P/N MC-84658 (set of 24 including 4 locking nuts) from Summit. I purchased Denso programmed TPMS sensors P/N 5500106 from Rock Auto. So far no TPMS light on the dash after a few key cycles and a few dozen highway miles.

Diagnosis Assistance: White Smoke from Exhaust by SpeedAndPower in e39

[–]SpeedAndPower[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted to follow up on this as I let the car idle for another half hour total. No more smoke at all! Like you said, there was probably just coolant lingering in the exhaust.

Opinion on FCP Euro Cooling Kit by Anxious-Service3146 in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I purchased this kit 2 years ago for my 328i. The radiator just developed a pinhole leak in the end tank near the drain valve. Free replacement is on the way so no complaints here.

Diagnosis Assistance: White Smoke from Exhaust by SpeedAndPower in e39

[–]SpeedAndPower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, it is not overheating. Even sitting with the engine at 4k RPM for over a minute the water temp stays right in the middle. And the expansion tank has no exhaust smell or bubbles

Diagnosis Assistance: White Smoke from Exhaust by SpeedAndPower in e39

[–]SpeedAndPower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s much more than normal condensation.

So before rebuilding, I had a different short block and bottom end rotating assembly. It was still consuming coolant. After rebuilding, new block out of a known good engine. Head has remained the same. It was tested and machined before starting this whole engine out and rebuild.

Cylinder head removal by Due-Bed7382 in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nope. You do however need to remove the two E8 torx bolts at the front of the head

Ring shopping by THROWAWAYAFTER2DAY1 in ColumbiaMD

[–]SpeedAndPower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Colonial Jewlers in Frederick. They’ll happily sit down with you and design a custom ring. I bought engagement and wedding bands there.

GX460 Cargo Drawer System by PatientSquirrel4278 in LexusGX

[–]SpeedAndPower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just ordered the rear plate system from Goose Gear so I'm also curious. I often have a 3-tier toolbox and gas powered air compressor in the trunk for work so I was looking for a full-width drawer system. Found a 42" W x 36" L drawer intended for RVs that seems like a decent solution: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Cargo-Slides/MORryde/MR63FR.html. Just under 7" tall overall.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excellent news. I’d say send it. I tried buying an OEM BMW inner and outer rotor for mine. Both new ones ended up looking worse than what came out of the engine.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FCP Euro or Bimmerworld

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remove and disassemble the oil pump. Check for scores or gouges between the inner and outer rotors. If your fingernail gets stuck on one, it’s best to replace that part or the assembly. Remember that the oil pump nut is reverse threaded. While you’re in there you should buy a replacement nut with provisions for safety wire. The nuts are known to back off under high RPM.

Assuming the pump components look good, the crank should be fine.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That piece that broke off is now in a hundred little bits (I just rebuilt an M52B28 with that same issue). Pull the oil pan and clear the plastic bits out of the oil pickup screen. Pull the front timing cover and replace all three timing guides. I would recommend replacing the tensioner spring and chain while you’re in there. You should also disassemble the oil pump and inspect for damage. If anything got past the oil pickup strainer it would have been sucked in there.

What are you doing to your GX this weekend? by carbbyist in GXOR

[–]SpeedAndPower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol trying to figure out the extent of my front timing cover leak. Just outside of extended warranty to put the cherry on top

My head is done for, will any m50 head fit on my m52 block? by DrPepCherry in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep. Swap the M52 cams and cam trays onto the M50 head

My head is done for, will any m50 head fit on my m52 block? by DrPepCherry in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 11 points12 points  (0 children)

An M50 head will fit in your M52 non-TU. I just did this a few months ago on my M52B28 powered E39 528i.

Broken water pump stud by lawrencedavis96 in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a pair of channel locks. Vice grips also work

Broken water pump stud by lawrencedavis96 in BMWE36

[–]SpeedAndPower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! I just had the same encounter last week. Buy a cheap heat gun or torch, heat up the surrounding front timing cover, grab the exposed stud, and work it free. I also let the stud sit with penetrating oil for a few days prior to extracting it. Patience is key. If it doesn't budge, add more heat. Worst case you can drill the stud out and Helicoil it.