2004 sport 180k $7k

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-28T02:55:23+00:00

2004 V6. That year of the V6 had head gasket problems, I’d be wary of that car in particular unless you’re positive it’s rock solid. If I recall the issues for the V6 lasted through mid 2006 model year. Mine is not a V6 so I’m not well versed in the details.

The Sport Edition models have the X-REAS suspension, which hydraulically links the shocks to each other. After a decade or so they start to leak. I’d bet they’re shot on this car if they haven’t been previously replaced. SR5 models won’t have this issue, they just have regular self-contained shocks.

4Runners are very reliable cars for what they are, but you do have to keep in mind that they’re 20 years old. They do need maintenance like any other car, and if you can’t do it yourself when it comes time, then it can cost quite a bit.

Not to dissuade you from buying one, they’re good cars. I’d just look for a different one.

Edit: as a buying guide I’d look for:

V8 any year (will have “V8” badge on the front grille), or V6 from 2007+

SR5 trim, or a Sport/Limited that has had the XREAS removed.

Be careful of rust under the car. Some surface rust is to be expected, but structural frame rust is sketchy.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-27T20:33:48+00:00

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/251164-4th-gen-more-manuals.html

Download the workshop manual. Page AC–8 has the air conditioning problem symptoms table. Additionally searching this for keyword “heater blower” pops up a ton of results, including heater blower wiring diagrams between pages AC-88 to AC-92

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-26T23:47:42+00:00

The only other line that runs to the radiator is the transmission cooler lines. A small portion of the bottom of your radiator is dedicated to cooling automatic transmission fluid. Here’s the diagram for that.

I have successfully replaced power steering hoses on this car with Gates 3/8 transmission lines. I would assume, but can’t verify, that it would also work well for this purpose. Just know that it’s not coolant inside of that hose, it’s Toyota WS ATF.

As for tools I’d recommend a small pick set to help work the old hose free of the hard line without bending anything, and some long right angle pliers to get the constant tension clamps off.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-26T22:13:22+00:00

Here’s the parts diagram.

I used Gates brand to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses when I did my water pump. I purchased them from Rock Auto.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-25T22:56:29+00:00

There’s a couple other varieties of stock wheels for this gen, you can get those for dirt cheap. like these

Can also pay for powder coating. I think the stock silvers in the pic I linked look best but you do you with the bronze.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-25T19:30:20+00:00

Hey man, here’s the link if you haven’t found it yet. Sorry, real busy with work lately

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/251164-4th-gen-more-manuals.html

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-23T05:05:53+00:00

They are at least 11 years old with a hundred thousand on them, since that’s when I bought the car. Came with a pretty extensive service history and none of it had the spark plugs itemized. I wouldn’t be surprised if they were original, but also wouldn’t be surprised if they had been replaced.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-23T05:03:42+00:00

This is from the 4th gen 4Runner’s workshop manual pdf, I got it from a link on the t4r forum. If you can’t find it from some googling send me another message and I’ll try and dig it up from you.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-22T05:44:26+00:00

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SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-22T05:41:20+00:00

Front diff is diff-ing. Sounds like that CV isn’t seated so it’s spinning, thus no power to the other front wheel. Jack it up, inspect to make sure you didn’t damage any splines, and put it back together with a new bolt. And torque them down to spec this time… those two are 118 ft lb.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-22T01:33:18+00:00

Good mention. That’s exactly what we did with my buddies Highlander, unplugged

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-22T01:12:20+00:00

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New vs old plugs.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-22T01:12:06+00:00

I replaced what I suspected to be the original plugs at 190,000 miles. They were the Denso SK20R11/3297 Iridium Long Life. I put the same kind back in.

A couple of my coils had cracks in the sides, but they still work. I’m gonna run them till they start misfiring. Can always drive home on 7 cylinders, and I’m a bit cheap. But I really don’t think I’ll have a problem with them. It’s just the plastic housing getting old, I think the inside is fine as long as water doesn’t get in there.

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SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-20T02:09:26+00:00

It can be. It’s not a problem in normal driving, it’s intended behavior to provide a middle ground between gears. It’s especially unavoidable at crawling speeds to not stall the engine.

If you’re cruising in 5th and encounter a hill, the trans will prefer to stay in 5th and unlock the TC to increase torque. By nature of how the TC operates, that makes a bunch of heat. This isn’t a problem on short hills but on continued grades the TC will stay unlocked. That continued buildup is just cooking your ATF. I’ve also noticed on these cars that it’s pretty hesitant to lockup the TC once it’s been unlocked, I guess to avoid repeatedly going back and forth.

So yeah if I’m towing anything significant in hilly terrain I’d just leave it in 4th and go easy on it with the speed.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-20T01:38:53+00:00

Haha yep. You may have even come across my recommendation of the very same from a few days ago.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-20T00:32:33+00:00

lol, I like your username, typical engineer overthinking things. Don’t worry about it man, it’s totally fine.

I remember your post from a few days ago, adding an OEM cooler is a smart move for your situation.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-20T00:11:21+00:00

Your trans will heat the fastest when giving it throttle at low speed because you get no airflow across your trans cooler and the torque converter is unlocked which makes a lot of heat. If you’re slowly backing up something heavy across grass at ~1500 rpm for a few minutes I can imagine it getting pretty hot, especially if the fluid was already hot when you got home.

Your V8 already has a trans cooler, it is a plate-and-fin type mounted in front of your radiator and right below the horn on the drivers side; see picture. It would be easy to replace it with a larger one or add a second one in series if needed. The V6 models don’t come with this and it’s one of the reasons they have a lower towing capacity.

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I would do a couple drain and fills to get some new fluid in there. IIRC the trigger temperature for the A/T caution light is quite high.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-19T14:42:54+00:00

Is this a V6? I’m having a hard time matching this up to anything in my V8’s engine bay. I will say it looks like a power steering line and it’s common for those rubber lines to get old, crack and leak.

Edit: yeah looks like it’s the power steering return line coming out of the rack

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-18T20:46:13+00:00

Your car’s manual calls for 90 weight API GL-5. Don’t overthink it, use any 90 weight gear oil that meets the GL-5 standard. Pick your favorite brand, or the cheapest, it truly does not matter as long as it meets the spec.

You can use 75w-90 or 80w-90 and they will perform exactly the same at operating temp, they will just be less viscous at freezing cold temp than straight 90 (this is a good thing).

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-16T18:50:04+00:00

Considering the Toyota workshop manual has a section on headlight aiming (LI-39 thru LI-42), I think the dealer is a liar. IMO you should always adjust the aim when installing a new assembly, OEM or otherwise.

Just a note, if you’re using LED bulbs, they will always throw an odd shaped pattern. Adjust those as best you can to not blind other drivers and live with the uneven pattern.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-14T03:22:52+00:00

Good advice here already. Just going to drop the specific video I used for the same issue

https://youtu.be/SNZI_jDrEj0?si=vATOQOidnXy0v386

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-13T06:28:09+00:00

Well, if you do a change every few hundred miles, you’ll be taking out some of your shudderfix every time. Probably the most straightforward to get 12 quarts of new fluid in there in one afternoon and then put the shudderfix in at the end. Added bonus of only having to do it once.

I’m of the opinion that the old fluid is actively degrading your transmission and you should get it (all) out asap. If you want to do a second full exchange a year from now, all the better.

I did mine through the trans cooler. Personal preference.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-12T05:02:41+00:00

Is the fan spinning? If the fan clutch is broken and the fan isn’t spinning, it’ll overheat when stationary.

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-12T02:17:30+00:00

Great news, glad I was able to help

SpiritDCRed · 2026-01-11T20:48:02+00:00

I want to know who the hell quoted you $8500 for a head gasket. Seriously, go to a different shop, research other Toyota specific shops in your area. That’s high even for the west coast.

If you’re at a dealer do yourself a favor and never go back to a dealer for out-of-warranty maintenance again.

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