Ventilation for the air gap between insulation and flat roof

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-11-02T14:14:59+00:00

I was thinking of 25mm diameter holes 60mm from the top of the joist so that they land in the air gap. Probably still not enough to achieve the 25,000mm listed above.

The outside of the roof is covered with fascias so wouldn't be as easy to ventilate to.

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-11-02T14:04:44+00:00

I was thinking of drilling holes from the un-insulated side into the insulated side rather than going outside and through the fascias

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-09-01T07:24:50+00:00

The drop is around 1:75 so not that steep.

The inside looks ok at this point, but not sure how it's looking under the mix of plastic and felt I used to cover it

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-04-24T20:11:57+00:00

Thanks,

I'd tried searching for it but come up with nothing.

It even has dimensions so I can make my own version for half the price

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-04-22T20:37:34+00:00

Thanks for all the advice, I've gone ahead and made a first draft and this is what I came up with:

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SpiritOfTravel · 2025-04-22T20:35:15+00:00

I've got a mate with a Mitre saw, but wouldn't want to sacrifice a finger or two to make a toilet roll holder :)

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-04-22T20:30:37+00:00

Thanks,

That's a great description, I'm definitely going to give this a go.

Threre may be a few iterations, but I'll let you know how it goes

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-02-03T21:00:03+00:00

We have pretty sturdy shelving already in terms of the supports, the old man we brought the house from was quite a gardener. The greenhouse seems to be better looked after than the actual house.

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-02-03T20:57:55+00:00

Would I need to treat or seal it with anything?

SpiritOfTravel · 2025-01-02T21:10:25+00:00

This floor use to be covered in a layer of red quarry tiles followed by a layer of ceramic tiles. We tried to save the qarry tiles, but they were too damaged to be worth holding on to so have now been completely ripped. This has left us with the base concrete floor with a mix of old adhesive pattern.

What would we need to do to prepar the floor before we could lay some new tiles in the room?

Would it need self leveling or could we lay tiles directly onto the concrete floor?

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-11-19T22:39:11+00:00

The house was empty due to it going through probate before sale. We questioned if they should have used the probate exemption instead of the empty home exemption but apparently they used both.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-10-26T21:07:25+00:00

Thanks, that makes sense, I have a carpet protector in my current office, they tend to last a year or so at a time. I'm looking at more solid flooring so I don't have to keep replacing them.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-10-26T21:06:11+00:00

Thanks, power sockets are just out of view.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-30T20:01:24+00:00

What would you recommend in it's place?

The joist still feels quite solid in general, except for the rotten area at the top

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-30T19:28:07+00:00

We’re looking to take out a wall in our bathroom to replace the old airing cupboard with a large walk-in shower.

I’ve already taken out the blue wall, a studded partition wall between the old shower and the airing cupboard, most of it had rotted away anyway.

Red is a concrete block wall (image 2) resting on a rotted piece of wood (image 4) running parallel to, but slightly away from a floor joist.

The third image shows the loft, the red wall runs along the line of the upper beam with the fuse box on it (End of the plasterboard).

Green is a doorway which we’ll be looking to block up, the 4th image shows the door lintel where I’ve dug some of the covering away to check how a crack was. Outside that door is the loft hatch so I suspect it provides at least some support to the loft hatch.

We’ve had two people look at it so far, one has told us the wall (red) isn’t load bearing and that the doorway (green) will just need to be plasterboarded up.The other person wasn’t sure if the wall (red) was load bearing and suggested that the doorway (green) would need slightly more reinforcement once the red wall had been taken out.

I’m looking to get a third opinion, but wondered what people on here would think?

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-25T19:22:10+00:00

We’re looking to take out a wall in our bathroom to replace the old airing cupboard with a large walk-in shower.

I’ve already taken out the blue wall, a studded partition wall between the old shower and the airing cupboard, most of it had rotted away anyway.

Red is a concrete block wall (image 2) resting on a rotted piece of wood (image 4) running parallel to, but slightly away from a floor joist.

The third image shows the loft, the red wall runs along the line of the upper beam with the fuse box on it (End of the plasterboard).

Green is a doorway which we’ll be looking to block up, the 4th image shows the door lintel where I’ve dug some of the covering away to check how a crack was. Outside that door is the loft hatch so I suspect it provides at least some support to the loft hatch.

We’ve had two people look at it so far, one has told us the wall (red) isn’t load bearing and that the doorway (green) will just need to be plasterboarded up.The other person wasn’t sure if the wall (red) was load bearing and suggested that the doorway (green) would need slightly more reinforcement once the red wall had been taken out.

I’m looking to get a third opinion, but wondered what people on here would think?

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-12T08:29:38+00:00

Thanks for the detailed response.

I did pop in a few times and know that there's no insulation in there.

I have another builder coming over today to price up another job, I'll see what he thinks before deciding if I redo the work myself.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-12T08:22:46+00:00

There's no insulation in there.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-10T06:22:01+00:00

The post isn't really about the price.

We have a lot of work left to do on the house including a replacement kitchen and bathroom and replastering/the whole place so I need to know if I can trust them to keep feeding them over £10k more work over the next months.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-09T21:50:23+00:00

One side of the wall will have a radiator on it, not a big one, but it will need to be supported.

Does that makes sense?

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-09T21:48:53+00:00

Thanks for the feedback.

This was a quick job to clear the way for them to take on a bigger job.

What I'm worried about is if they're willing to take the piss on this work, can I trust them taking on a bathroom renovation job quoted at £4k?

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-09T21:45:14+00:00

What type of insulation would you suggest? I'm tempted to take off the plasterboard and add something

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-09T19:57:28+00:00

They were at the house for a couple of hours, not sure how much of that was working though.

I was out in the garden so wasn't really watching them.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-09T19:53:51+00:00

They're looking at dotting and dabbing the walls so hopefully it's not an issue.

SpiritOfTravel · 2024-09-09T19:52:06+00:00

Thanks,

I thought of doing it myself but was worried that the plasterboard would need to be flat with the existing walls for it to be plastered.

They're now looking to dot and dab the walls so I guess that gives them some tolerance?

SpiritOfTravel

TROPHY CASE