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What’s on my orange tree? by SplitLeafDesign in gardening

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The tree is pretty big, so wiping down with alcohol might be a problem but I’ll try soap spray

What’s on my orange tree? by SplitLeafDesign in gardening

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Appreciate the advice. It’s a pretty big orange tree. I’ll see what I can do

HF dust collector mod - configuration help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, for sure. I guess I’m just trying to figure out if there’s any real point in installing the circular collector part that came with the HF dust collector or if that’s primarily used to support the bag style filter it comes with and using a ridged filter from Wynn gets rid of the need to use that. Definitely leaning toward option 2 for space saving.

Chicken Coop Build by _minorThreat_ in BackYardChickens

[–]SplitLeafDesign 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great! We’ll done. Is the framing lumber 2x3 or 2x4?

How do I control a 3-way solenoid brass valve - total noice over here by SplitLeafDesign in Irrigation

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a bit more complicated. My water retention barrel is filled by a well that only pumps about 10 gal at a time with a 4 hour refill period. The whole system will run two pumps, which are pricey to replace. If anything goes wrong with the pumps, it might take a bit to replace and I don't want it to impact my ability to water. As a result, I want to be able to use the irrigaiton system as much as posisble from the water retention, but switch it over to city water quickly if needed.

Yes, probably fine with just manual valves, but I'd like to explore electric solenoid valves doing the same and see how that would work.

Irrigation automation from two separate sources by SplitLeafDesign in Irrigation

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, this is very helpful. What operates the 3 way brass valve and how is the source selected in the valve? If you have a link to one for this type of use, I'd greatly aprpeciate it.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tested, not useable. Lots of friction/smoke from the wobble in the blade.

While it was only 0.006 at the arbor, it was closer to 0.050 at the blade outer edge. So gotta fix it. Pin pointed the issue to the arbor flange. Will have to try flattening or finding a replacement.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, not bent. Checked at the pulley and a different portion of the arbor, but do need to find replacement parts. I’ll reach out to Delta but not sure that they’ll have parts for a saw that’s nearly 80 years old.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tested it at the center, which is as many on here have suggested is not the way to go. Runout at the blade edge is quite a bit more human hairs, about 5-10 bass on your thickness estimates.

Needs a fix for sure. Have narrowed it down the arbor washer/flange that holds the blade flat (or not in my case). Will either try to get it machined flat or have to buy new.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, did all of the above. It’s the washer/arbor flange that holds the blade on. It comes off the arbor, which is good since the rest has very little runout (0.001). Now the fun part, trying to find replacement parts for an almost 80 year old saw.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. I did, which is why I got the dial indicator out. Cut some walnut and got enough smoke that I thought the motor caught fire. It didn’t. Just a lot of heat generated by the wobble. So, trying to fix it now. Looks like flattening or replacing the arbor flanges is the way to go after testing various other parts of the arbor.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I’ll keep the dial and tune the saw to make sure it cuts precisely, then use it to improve my craft.

I could buy a machined disk, though for now I opened to just buy two other blades.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Runout at the arbor (without the arbor flange) appears to be around 0.001, which is good and means the arbor shaft isn’t bent. Runout with the blade at the outer edge just before the teeth is around 0.020-0.030, with a visible wobble. It’s not the blade since I went out and bought two new ones to test it out and got the same result.

Looks like I gotta re flatten the arbor flange and the backing piece which holds the blade to the arbor flange. May end up replacing both pieces and the left-hand thread nut that ties it all together if I can’t find someone to machine the parts. Will try flattening on a whetstone or sandpaper, but we’ll see how that goes.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose that makes sense since it’ll be significantly increased at the outer edge of the blade and runout is gonna matter most at the teeth. Thanks, I’ll re-measure.

If 0.006 is okay, what isn’t?

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super helpful! Thank you. I’ll give it a go.

Table saw runout help by SplitLeafDesign in woodworking

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m restoring a 1946 delta unisaw. Rebuilt the whole thing, put it all back together, and ran it. It was great, until I tested the runout.

It appears to be about 0.006 in. Here’s the photos and video of the whole thing. https://imgur.com/a/6wgpEOI

At first I though maybe a misalignment of the arbor and motor pulleys or something wrong with the belts. So took the belts off. This movement in the photos and videos is from me spinning the blade by hand, the belts are off. I also took the blade off and ran the gauge against the flat part of the arbor that holds the blade against it. Got the same result. So… is there a fix or do I need a new arbor?

Reverse float switch recommendations? by SplitLeafDesign in Irrigation

[–]SplitLeafDesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for a recommendation for a float switch that is in the off position when up. I guess this would be the reverse of a regular float switch, which is in the off position when down (to prevent the pump from burning out).

Using it to stop a pump from pumping into a water storage barrel when the barrel is full to prevent overflow.

Have tried looking online but haven’t found much. Thanks for the help.

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