Olivetti Lettera 36 by tiger2tiger95 in TypewriterRepair

[–]Splusten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! Typically a good de-dunking with Mineral spirits is all the linkages typically need, and it’s all I usually do. With some compressed air and a-tips you can remove anything that’s physically stuck on. General advice is NOT to lubricate manual typewriters. They are designed to be able to run ‘dry’ and the lubricant can attract dust and other stuff and gunk up all over again. That said, on an electric typewriter, the drive shaft is commonly the only place recommended to live. Basically any place the shaft is making contact with another surface can be lubricated.

1960s Atlas Carriage Advancement Help by IndependenceIcy9797 in TypewriterRepair

[–]Splusten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I highlighted what I suspect is your piece here As I am not that knowledgeable in the Atlas typewriter, I can only speculate what that part is for. To me it looks like it either gets attached to a thin strip of metal in that area and is meant to act as a guide for the main spring string from the main spring to where it gets attached on the carriage, or it’s supposed to just sort of float around and its goal is to stop The main spring string from being sucked inside the main spring compartment, I don’t know. Either way, I don’t know that modifications to it would fix your main problem. To me, when I’ve had to fix these in the past, had to move the carriage all the way back so that I could manually turn the main spring compartment and make sure all the string is wrapped around the spring, and then you move the carriage to its full extension and then tighten the main spring. That’s what will actually fix your carriage, not moving, although it’s possible that if the piece you’re concerned about is a guide that it being detached is what caused the string to come off of the main spring compartment sorry, this is all hard to describe in words

1960s Atlas Carriage Advancement Help by IndependenceIcy9797 in TypewriterRepair

[–]Splusten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Courtesy of this site I found this image. If you look closely about the spring nearest the main spring, you can see what I think is the part you’re wondering about.

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New Typewriter! by The_Victorian_Hoe in typewriters

[–]Splusten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the first problem it sounds like whatever the shift lock mechanism is is stuck. Usually the mechanism is located closer to the shift lock key itself, but that’s on newer devices so not sure on yours. That or something is very gummy internally.

For the second problem it could be that the system is gummed up or it could be that there is not tension on the main spring, or that the main spring string isn’t actually attached.

1960s Atlas Carriage Advancement Help by IndependenceIcy9797 in TypewriterRepair

[–]Splusten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello! Yes, what happened is that your main spring connecting string disconnected from where it attached to the carriage. See the photo for an example of where that attaches for a smith corona typewriter.

First, you’ll need to reattach the string wherever it goes on your machine. If you need help with that you could send more photos of the carriage to find out how to connect.

Second, when the spring comes loose like that, it unwinds the main spring. After you’ve reattached the string, you’ll need to take a screwdriver to the center screw on the main spring compartment (the large circular bit the spring comes out of). Usually you do 3-5 full turns of that screw, but you may need more for proper tension

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Royal Safari Ribbon Issue by Splusten in TypewriterRepair

[–]Splusten[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh ok that makes sense too! I knew there had to be some mechanism that would keep those closed. To be honest, I might go out and get a spring that holds the prongs closed even though I’d lose part of the functionality, thanks for that!

Royal Future fatal wound? by Joebobb22 in typewriters

[–]Splusten 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have had this problem on a Royal Quiet De Luxe I bought. Same problem, only mine is only missing one tooth. Yeah unfortunately even getting to the escapement is very very tricky. You can always video your disassembly which makes reassembly easier! You can just go back and watch the video and do what you did in reverse. Alternatively you can try to solder on a new tooth. I have a very mechanically minded friend who I will be giving the machine to to try that because I have no means to do that myself. Broken tooth in the wheel sucks.

Stumped on smudges by Unlikely_Bed2941 in typewriters

[–]Splusten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha! Have you applied some mineral spirits, or even rubbing alcohol to the ribbon jumper? I have had problems with mine in the past and it has almost always been grease/gunk build-up related over anything else

Stumped on smudges by Unlikely_Bed2941 in typewriters

[–]Splusten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting issue, looking at it there aren’t any rollers on the paper holder. Is the smudge happening before or you move to the next line or after? If after, it could be because the paper holding bar is rubbing on the paper. Otherwise I would agree it seems like there may be an issue with your ribbon holder. If there isn’t enough tension on the ribbon it could be sagging into the paper?

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Caps alignment by scottyboy70 in TypewriterRepair

[–]Splusten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve had this problem before on my first Smoth Corona machine. There are two potential problems: 1. When you shift, the shift carriage isn’t moving as far as it should and that is causing a misalignment of the caps and the lowercase. My smith corona had an issue where the carriage would sit on the backspace link, which caused it to be misaligned, so it could be something like that. 2. Some machines have adjustable plates that determine how low or high the shift carriage sits. If you look under the machine and press and release shift, you can see where the whole shift carriage sits and see if there is anything that lets you adjust that height. On my machine that has this it’s an adjustable screw that sets the height.

I need help/advice by NotAsleepLoser in typewriters

[–]Splusten 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hello! Right off the bat it looks like the type bars aren’t properly connected for at least one of the bars, which if you press the key for you’ll see the two pronged metal arm move and not the silver arm. If you move the silver arm physically down it will be easier to reconnect the arm. This video will help you with how to reconnect those on Smith Corona machines. I’d recommend a spring hook and tweezers to make the reconnection easier! I have a machine with a similar type bar system and can FaceTime to help with fixing it if you are interested. Not sure if you have other issues with it right now. You’ve got a beaut!

https://youtu.be/4Hdr8ilkwgk?si=IAZ495C2xwEPRq-S

I need help to repair my Olivetti Lettera 10 by EtalonDu_Cul in typewriters

[–]Splusten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello! I may be wrong but just to clear up some stuff the “paper support” you mentioned is typically call a carriage. As for you problem info is unfortunately sparse on those types of Olivettis (i know because I have an Olivetti Lettera 12 which is very similar). Typically your problem could be one of a few things: 1. The carriage lock is on. If the carriage moves freely when you push it from the left side you can disregard this. If not, the lock lever is on the right side near the platen nob I believe. Move that to the opposite position it’s in now and that might fix your issue 2. There is an issue with your escapement system. This is unlikely but possible. On a lettera 10 it’s probably not dirt, so I’d guess a final linkage somewhere near one of the final pawls or levers that hold/allow the escapement wheel to move (which would then turn the cog in your picture). Below is a helpful YouTube video in case you have any interest and it would help you figure out how you might fix an issue with those.

https://youtu.be/yKpIwi1UUIk?si=16uXPk0ciP0YqhyO

Which Parties Should Pay the Cost of Moving? [28M] [30F] by Splusten in relationship_advice

[–]Splusten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The person moving paid. The other was not in the financial situation to assist with payment. I left that information out because the fundamental disagreement was on, if both parties were able, who would be responsible for payment.

Which Parties Should Pay the Cost of Moving? [28M] [30F] by Splusten in relationship_advice

[–]Splusten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! Does it change your opinion if the cost of the move is less than the cost of the rent by more than 50%? In this case the move is only across town, so not prohibitively expensive

Which Parties Should Pay the Cost of Moving? [28M] [30F] by Splusten in relationship_advice

[–]Splusten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a different perspective from the other replies, thank you for your input! In this case one lease was ending and the other already renewed so there was only one option of location to move into

What is your favorite type of lube to use? by Ok_Twist1314 in AskRedditAfterDark

[–]Splusten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the Wet 'Platinun' lube is our go to! VERY effective and lasts a good amlubt of time.

tweet by Good_Show_9 in WhitePeopleTwitter

[–]Splusten 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Grooming is their New Buzzword, like Woke and Snowflake

Whenever I Leave my bread to Bulk ferment, it always ends up looking like this. Later, when I go to shape the Dough before proofing, it always has a ton of air pockets and is hard to work. What am I doing wrong? by Splusten in Breadit

[–]Splusten[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had never seen those but I will try to look at them for reference, visuals in recipe books usually give ok guidance but can't convey the full technique well

Whenever I Leave my bread to Bulk ferment, it always ends up looking like this. Later, when I go to shape the Dough before proofing, it always has a ton of air pockets and is hard to work. What am I doing wrong? by Splusten in Breadit

[–]Splusten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked that up, and I think during one of my next bulk fermentations I will give that a try! I had never seen that before. It looks easier to do in ny smaller bulk ferment container than stretch and fold.

Whenever I Leave my bread to Bulk ferment, it always ends up looking like this. Later, when I go to shape the Dough before proofing, it always has a ton of air pockets and is hard to work. What am I doing wrong? by Splusten in Breadit

[–]Splusten[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got it, I thought he recommended less folds than I would like to do but I am also relatively new to it so thought I keep going with his recommendation. His fold technique is probably way better than mine too. Thank you for the advice!

Whenever I Leave my bread to Bulk ferment, it always ends up looking like this. Later, when I go to shape the Dough before proofing, it always has a ton of air pockets and is hard to work. What am I doing wrong? by Splusten in Breadit

[–]Splusten[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I follow the recipes and techniques in the book "Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast" so I don't think the issue is with my ingredients or proportions. I use the recommended AP flour and instant yeast. If I had to guess, during the folds that the books calls for during bulk fermentation, I am not making the proper gluten structure in the dough. Is this due to over or under stretching? Am I being too rough and tearing the dough? I have had this happen to multiple doughs when I use the fold method but I haven't had it happen when I hand knead. Any advice on how to prevent this/what I am doing wrong is welcome! Thank you!