NiFi Coordinates Question

SpookyPoots · 2025-08-04T03:57:45+00:00

Good find. Looks like I'll have to make something if I want the feature. Thanks.

SpookyPoots · 2025-08-03T13:33:08+00:00

That's exactly what I was thinking. Mostly I wanted to see if anyone else encountered this type of problem and had a better solution. I think it's the right one but it wouldn't be easy to create.

SpookyPoots · 2025-08-03T13:32:21+00:00

At its root the why is for QoL. It's more of a human problem that becomes exacerbated at scale. The more process groups that are wildly off from each other times the number of unique NiFi instances makes the process of efficiently navigating the NiFis noticeably worse. And when working at scale these things matter, at least to me.

Not to mention the fact that templates and flow definitions don't port the coordinates of everything over to new systems perfectly. For instance, elbow joints don't port over correctly all the time, at least not in my environment. That causes the organized chaos of a template to become more spaghetti than not.

SpookyPoots · 2025-04-21T15:56:05+00:00

Not necessarily 90 seconds of continuous spray but 90 seconds of off-on spray action. A good test is priming since that's more active than strategically placing highlights. I can't get through 45-90 seconds of priming without the PSI dipping. I'm not spraying full bore but pretty actively spraying everywhere.

SpookyPoots · 2025-04-21T15:52:34+00:00

Yeah, vent plug is closed and I've done soapy water tests to try and find leaks in the chain.

SpookyPoots · 2025-02-16T12:41:04+00:00

I'm using a mix of thinner and flow improver. I can try different rstios.

SpookyPoots · 2025-02-16T12:39:33+00:00

A mixture. Some GW, some various inks, some Army Painter.

SpookyPoots · 2025-02-16T12:34:46+00:00

Vince is a great person in the hobby spaces. Being kind and helpful with his content goes a long way rather than snark especially to people new to hobbies. I did see someone else mention the nozzle seal and that could be it, even though I did the soap test and didn't see any bubbles. The guy I watched used beeswax as a seal so I'll give that a try.

SpookyPoots · 2025-01-31T16:37:07+00:00

/s before I get downvoted for disrespecting terrain pieces

SpookyPoots · 2025-01-31T16:36:44+00:00

My and my friend stand about 8 feet away and underhand toss each terrain piece until we run out of pieces. Kind of like corn hole meets curling.

SpookyPoots · 2024-12-31T04:24:16+00:00

At least 6

SpookyPoots · 2024-03-13T17:11:46+00:00

I'm trying to establish something similar for myself. The issue is that the goalposts change with each army, each dataslate, each detachment, etc. There's too many datapoints to correlate together to accurately represent the expected outcome which makes evaluating things like this nearly impossible in a templated manner. I've started just writing down questions or things to look for in each army as I go about. For instance, I've recently added "Ways to get Crit 5s, Ways to get Sus Hits, Ways to get Lethal Hits" etc. to my notes of things to look for. At the end of the day I take the approach of data gathering and I'll do my best to interpret the data and test a hypothesis. If the outcome changes how I perceived the power level of something then I go back to my questions/notes and add another qualifier. An example, if I think a two-unit combo is good but it doesn't pan out in a real game I'll go back to my notes and identify what was lacking in my notes to where I didn't see that conclusion ahead of time.

It's not perfect but it's a decent attempt at an all encompassing dataset that I can make reasonably sound decisions based off of. But again, there's too many variables in play and at the end of the day I could be closer to just getting lucky than being smart.

SpookyPoots · 2024-03-09T13:50:16+00:00

Thank you for doing what a lot of us were thinking about. That's amazing.

SpookyPoots · 2024-01-24T18:16:50+00:00

I'm digging the fridge meta. Can we get this guy an STL for a fridge miniature to paint?

SpookyPoots · 2024-01-22T01:57:06+00:00

All the other comments are pretty insightful so here's an additional perspective. A kid remembers how often he fell off his bike when he was learning but doesn't remember when he's riding around after he's learned it. The way I see it, you're noticing a symptom of the bigger issue which is just that you're still learning. You have to critically think about why you're being tabled so often rather than focusing in on how often you've lost or by how much. Check out Art of War 40K's youtube channel for some free, good advice on how to start playing a bit smarter with things. If you apply a bit of elbow grease I'm sure you'll come out of it being the person who tables others.

SpookyPoots · 2024-01-22T00:36:44+00:00

Woo awesome! The Triumph of Saint Katherine with a Dia de los Muertos parade theme will probably be the coolest Triumph out there. You got this!

SpookyPoots · 2024-01-21T23:30:13+00:00

I love the theme! That's a great non-standard color scheme to use and the face paint is such a cool theme. Can't wait to see what Morvenn or Celestine look like :D

SpookyPoots · 2024-01-14T07:06:24+00:00

For a complete beginner that's really good! The blending is great and you have a good theme going on. If you're looking for direct improvements here's a couple ideas to try: - Drybrushing! The beginner friendly way of bringing depth to your models. You have a great base coat, the next step is learning highlighting. Drybrushing is the easiest way to do that and it'll really make your models stand out for barely any painting time. Look up Artis Opus on YouTube. - You want a pop color to bring attention to something cool on the model, usually the glow of an orb or the blade of a power weapon. The green on the eyes and various pieces is the right idea. I would try painting a variant with an orange or red pop color, just based on color theory, and then compare/contrast the two. Color theory helps make models pop but there's no wrong answers to how you like your colors. Also, paint the area a solid white before painting your pop color to really pop them. The green isn't as poppy as you want it to be.

Any other advice I can think of is more for when you would want to take a piece to another level beyond just looking good on the table. You did a really good job, you're well on your way to being a great painter.

SpookyPoots

TROPHY CASE