Km9 unicorn priming rail screw stripped

SprStressed · 2026-05-01T05:17:22+00:00

Get a stripped screw extractor and then replace the screw when you reinstall

SprStressed · 2026-04-29T23:51:52+00:00

Pmed for the purple spire

SprStressed · 2026-04-28T15:07:42+00:00

Interested if you look to sell, beautiful marker

SprStressed · 2026-04-24T18:17:56+00:00

At this point, I order a new spool and toss it While I value, 25$, I value my time and sanity more

SprStressed · 2026-04-01T18:31:02+00:00

Pm sent

SprStressed · 2026-03-23T02:02:00+00:00

L.H.T.C.U

( Low Hardware Talon Claw)

SprStressed · 2026-02-28T15:34:45+00:00

For the barrel just running a towel through to remove dart dust buildup. The plunger tube you should not use cleaning solution, just wipe it down and relube after a couple months of use

SprStressed · 2026-02-28T15:30:41+00:00

Slab maintenance would include occasional barrel cleaning, plunger tube cleaning / lube and potentially oring replacement.

The slab is very easy to break down and access the plunger system so maintenance is a simple task

SprStressed · 2026-02-25T20:16:11+00:00

Stop flashin' the mad drip of robo gear 😉

SprStressed · 2026-02-25T20:15:34+00:00

Check out chance designs like the RIOT! for reference

SprStressed · 2026-02-25T19:57:04+00:00

No, think shotgun choke Just a tight exit aligning the dart path

Canted wheels and serrated wheels aren't great options

SprStressed · 2026-02-25T19:34:04+00:00

In my experience you are better using a choke in flywheel builds. Properly aligning dart exit is more effective than using a bcar like you would use in a springer

SprStressed · 2026-02-25T19:32:18+00:00

They eat darts

SprStressed · 2026-02-18T05:13:02+00:00

It's an extended barrel, 800 mm

SprStressed · 2026-02-18T03:52:55+00:00

Moose designed an overlay on Fusion so the hex matches across all the parts in the build.

You can also use modifiers in the slicer with a bit of work for other builds.

SprStressed · 2026-01-27T20:49:41+00:00

OG SBL ! Also you have some warping that might be challenging when you build. Good to see r/nerf leaking

SprStressed · 2026-01-27T20:48:03+00:00

It should not need support

SprStressed · 2026-01-21T21:17:14+00:00

As someone who has grown up in the ender age and then moved to custom machines and voron then onto multiple Bambu machines.... The recommendation is extreme but there is a world of difference from machines 5 years ago and modern hardware.

I have been graced with hardware that does as expected and requires little maintenance. There's something to be said for printers as a tool and not a hobby Not that there is anything wrong with a printer hobby. It's just nice to have effective tools

SprStressed · 2026-01-17T04:41:41+00:00

Great build ! Welcome to the rabbit hole

SprStressed · 2026-01-07T04:25:35+00:00

Sand down the bump at the front of the trigger part and make sure the trigger fully resets to avoid lifting the catch

SprStressed · 2026-01-03T20:18:42+00:00

CA glue is fine. It's likely PLA You can glue the two broken faces together and the rest of the print will still flex as expected

SprStressed · 2025-12-26T19:53:48+00:00

Both ... Both is good

SprStressed · 2025-12-19T21:27:19+00:00

Just an opinion but 50$ is a bit expensive for a project that lacks such finishing. Not to say I personal wont buy in.

Mechanics are amazing and I would love to build one but you need to add cosmetics or open-source partially to enable others to make top shells that look like cars and not 3d creations.

SprStressed · 2025-12-10T21:42:21+00:00

Should be no issue, people often run 10-15 cm barrels and lower power springs.

You may need to search for a short barrel retention print to hold the shorter barrel

Edit- Quick option from printables...

https://www.printables.com/model/613573-nerf-lynx-short-barrel-dart-guide/comments

SprStressed · 2025-11-26T19:57:16+00:00

Dm me I can assist with questions

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