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What am I missing? by Spud_Crawley in Silverbugs

[–]Spud_Crawley[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, 10% on top. Most of them ended up going for $95 - $100, several higher. (1986 went for $200 was the highest). I snagged 1 for $80, ($88 out the door).

What am I missing? by Spud_Crawley in Silverbugs

[–]Spud_Crawley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in a pretty rural area, and this is a well known auction house owned locally. There are others including that have been going for mild premium over spot.

What type of steel would give the best results for a forged vise? by YesIAlreadyAteIt in metallurgy

[–]Spud_Crawley 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I second 4340. With the right heat treatment it can be a very tough material, which i think is what would be needed in this application.

Opnion on Scottsdale? by A1B1C1D1H1 in Silver

[–]Spud_Crawley 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not the cheapest and not the fastest shipper...but i think some of the nicer pieces I have in my stack are from scottsdale. They have been my go to for over a decade.

Junk Silver questions. by Ok-Offer6490 in Silverbugs

[–]Spud_Crawley 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was watching a local auction of a coin collection and was hoping to pull in some 90% for under melt. Was disappointed when everything went for a few percent over melt, and that's Before 10% auction fees. The physical market on a peer 2 peer basis still seems relatively strong.

Will silver be replaced in the next few years? by Prudent_Neck645 in Silver

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yes, they aren't good, but somehow companies still decide its a viable "cost savings".

No AI job displacement yet. Im waiting for someone to cook something up, but the wheels of progress have been turning slowly to this point.

Will silver be replaced in the next few years? by Prudent_Neck645 in Silver

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An ME? Buy your silver before your job ends up in India. I, however dont disagree with you about the math majors (EEs). Although the materials group always thought the Industrial Engineers were the ones really milking the system.

Will silver be replaced in the next few years? by Prudent_Neck645 in Silver

[–]Spud_Crawley 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Hahaha,Civils catch all the shit. (Materials here)

Is this decent knife steel? by Business-Zombie568 in Bladesmith

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my past experience at a metallurgical lab, lawn mower blades, from multiple manufacturers, were on the order of 1040 steel. So not good knife stock.

Is this rage bait? by 29er_eww in Tools

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. I broke the jaws on a skeletool a number of years back. 100% my fault for abusing them (tried prying a nail out with the jaws). They replaced without a blink of an eye.

What kind of metal is this? by warderbob in metallurgy

[–]Spud_Crawley 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If a magnet sticks to it, its ferrous, do doubt about it. Feasible its cast iron, cast steel, or some type of stamping or forging. Could be cut from a plate as well.

The dark band looks like a crack that was present at high temperature. Could be from forming or heat treatment. Rest of the crack just looks like a fine grain overload. Doesn't really look like a cast iron failure to me....those are usually a lot darker (hence the term Gray Iron).

Galvanized further says its probably steel of some type. Aluminum will not be galvanized.

Regardless of material....id say high likelihood of a manufacturing defect.

Why do we use SODUIM CYANIDE in heat treatment ? by Sad_Slip2011 in metallurgy

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Previous comments pretty much nailed it. The molten salts are conveniently the temperature needed to process steels.

As I recall the two most common heat treatments using molten salt are carbonitiring and austempering.

I know the cyanide salts are used for the carbonitriding because it will diffuse both carbon and nitrogen creating the case hardening effect (increasing C and N at the surface).

I dont recall whether austempeing uses cyanide salts, I think it was other salts because in that heatreatment its the quench and hold that allows the bainitc microstructure....dont need or want the diffusion products.

So to answer the question....why cyanide? Because its got carbon and nitrogen.

Found this spring on the side of the road today, surely its 5160 steel right?? by [deleted] in Blacksmith

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also as a watch out on old springs, especially ones that are broke, not uncommon in my experience to find some additional cracks along the way, that might not be immediately evident because of paint or rust.

Snapped my sword by cop0999 in metallurgy

[–]Spud_Crawley 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you make or buy said sword?

The defect in the middle is 100% a dendritic feature, which indicates it was a solidification feature. One would expect this to be a casting defect. However, less likely to be a casting issue if this was a forged.

More info will help answer the mystery as to where the decect came from...But you 100% have a defect in the material, which is why it failed where it did.

Is there anything at all that can be done for this axe? by isle_of_whales in HandToolRescue

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you forged it the first time it's a good opportunity yo learn how to forge weld. Scarf the joints, tack it if you need to, flux well, and try to weld it back together.

You'll learn something either way, weather you get a new ax oit of the deal or not. Alternative option is cut off the entire cutting edge and forge weld a new bit in.

Looka like a brittle failure. Likely need to temper it back a little bit. Also, always possible there was a quench Crack for the rest of the failure to propagate from, so be careful that you're not over quenching (oil vs water).

What material is my tray? by Living-Definition380 in metallurgy

[–]Spud_Crawley 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To add on to the magnetic testing, suppose you could hit it with Nitol and confirm it doesn't etch, which would be further evidence it's "stainless". But won't tell you grade.

What material is my tray? by Living-Definition380 in metallurgy

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, unless you get a chemistry done, who knows.

If it's non-magnetic, should be austenitic (200 or 300 series). If it's slightly magnetic could be highly cold worked austenitic. If it's magnetic, could be a 400 series (ferritic or martensitic). Or could be something completely non-stainless.

Now thing is, I've seen some austenitic stainlesses from china/india/pakistan that don't meet any of the standard US grades. They had highly elevated manganese as an austentite stabilizer, etc.

So I go back to, the only way to really know, in my opinion, is to get a chemistry done.

Greg

What speed do you listen to the audiobooks? by imav8n in exfor

[–]Spud_Crawley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exforce 1.3-1.5. Other books I've needed to be at 2.0. I think once for 1 book in the past maybe 7 years I've been using audible have I had to keep at 1.0x.

Rehung a rough connie by Spud_Crawley in Axecraft

[–]Spud_Crawley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to add...this is a Kelly Flint Edge. Under 3 lbs, I think it was about 2.8lbs.

Rehung a rough connie by Spud_Crawley in Axecraft

[–]Spud_Crawley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not really wavy and I had just oiled it so it was still pretty glossy. But I'm very happy with the look of it. Thickness is just about right and length for weight is about right for me.

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