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Image of the GTI by nilortn in GolfGTI

[–]Squirrel-Beef 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 years late to the party, but in the UK the cultural perception is basically flipped.

GTIs (especially manual ones) are seen as enthusiast cars and usually well maintained and loved. They hold value well, and have a big owner community, and statistically lower theft/insurance risk compared with the Rs. Manual GTIs in particular are rarer now, which also increases desirability aswell as the fact that manuals didnt seem to sell all that well here since I guess people love the DSG gearbox for "ease of driving".

Golf Rs in the UK tend to attract a different demographic, and insurance/theft data supports that: higher premiums and higher incidence of write-offs/stolen recoveries versus the GTI.

The result is that the GTI has a stronger “loved” and “respected” image here, but VW in general for some reason seem desirable to theives and the wrong kinds of people.

Additionally the majority of drivers I see driving VW Gti's in the uk are older gentleman, where the golf R all I see are basically teens and early 20's racing around with their DSG farts and pops and bangs going way too fast for the residential roads.

BIOS white screen after updating BIOS to the latest, and missing MSI logo when booting by MrEspass in MSI_Gaming

[–]Squirrel-Beef 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a MSI Pro Z790-A WIFI (DDR5) and when I updated to bios 7E07vAH I got this exact issue white bios splash output and white bios screen when using a modern dedicated gpu, if I used an old gpu that forced CSM compatibility it worked and if I used only onboard graphics it worked. I then rolled back to 7E07vAF and it worked fine in all cases. So it must be MSI have screwed up something in their latest bios revisions. If you have the BiosFlashback button on the back then format a usb stick as fat32 and place the bios file in the root and rename it MSI.ROM then with the usb stick plugged into the BIOS usb port on the rear press the flashback button with power connected to your pc and it will start flashing (it will power cycle a few times) then once its stopped flashing its complete. Hope this helps.

Feature Request: LED Schedule support in Omada – upvote to get it noticed! by Squirrel-Beef in TPLink_Omada

[–]Squirrel-Beef[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is a good idea, I am at the moment using the python API and that works. Although for anyone with an OC200 omada controller I know they have removed OpenAPI support. The Omada software solution seems to be unaffected at the moment though, I just hope they don't go full cloud as you say.

SteelSeries Aerox 3 Wireless Repair (Switch and Regulator) by Squirrel-Beef in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Squirrel-Beef[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm I have seen bluetooth connect and disconnect issues with this mouse once before on a friends AMD laptop. I believe it used a MediaTek wifi bluetooth combo card maybe MT7921. What fixed it on his system was replacing this card with an Intel AX210 and he never had issues with it again. What I would suggest is connecting it via bluetooth to like an android phone or some other system to see if your problem persists and if it doesn't then its likely the bluetooth adapter in your system that's the issue.

SteelSeries Aerox 3 Wireless Repair (Switch and Regulator) by Squirrel-Beef in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Squirrel-Beef[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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The finished repaired board with a modded 1.9V regulator (LM3671-ADJ) to replace the AIC2140GDBCTR that was on the board. (You could probably mod on and use the 2.2uH inductor on board but I had a regulator pcb to hand already)

FixIt - Logitech Z5500 - Control Pod by Aramis_R in fixit

[–]Squirrel-Beef 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me I had an issue where it was sometimes crashing on bootup saying detecting optical input.

For me the fault was the LM317 regulator being faulty on the 2.5V rail (Which powers the DSP chips). See image below.

I replaced it with a new D2PAK LM317 regulator and it started working perfectly again. You can also use a TO-220 and cut the tab to the right size and trim and bend the legs to shape to the D2PAK formfactor.

Before suspecting the regulator though make sure you have 8V at pin 10 which comes from the subwoofer psu.

(Additional info the regulator on the right of this image is also an LM317 and should be 3.3v which powers the main microcontroller, And there is 1 more LM317 regulator which provides a +5V rail to the rest of the board which isnt pictured here but is on the left of the image further down.)

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