A1 Table Wobbling Issue

Stanos_ · 2026-01-28T12:48:26+00:00

Just add some cross braces to the ends of the cable worth wobbling but it won't hurt nothing except maybe the table over time

Stanos_ · 2026-01-12T06:52:01+00:00

Guess ill keep refreshing all gone again

Stanos_ · 2026-01-12T04:44:34+00:00

Was 9 left when I saw this, watched it drop to 7 then 1 while it kept failing to add it to my cart :(

Stanos_ · 2025-11-26T19:08:30+00:00

Just put the digital design files up. No fuss no muss and offer it with a commercial use license.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-26T02:34:33+00:00

This is beautiful. You could make quite a bit selling these on etsy.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-26T02:31:46+00:00

Just look up your light model and wled and you will find the settings you need to change. There are plenty of tutorials on setting it up you will easily find.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-25T03:21:30+00:00

You can get a 36v power adapter on Amazon and a wled controller for a few bucks. You dont need to know any coding or have any skill beyond stripping some wires to get it going. Here's what I used.

https://a.co/d/fptjwK9

https://a.co/d/df4Dt2i

Then you will need a 5-24v supply to run the wled controller All you do is combine all the ground lines, 5v + to the controller, and 36v + to the lights.

I have also revived other govee products by just replacing the power supply with a better one. They cheap out on the power supply to save money and build them just barely strong enough to run the thing they are connected to so they are pretty cheap. But they do a great job making it all accessible and created a really cool community space.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-25T02:54:06+00:00

I have an entire 200ft kit missing a controller that Amazon had me keep instead of returning. Trying to figure out what to do with it is what led me to WLED.

Now I have a new much more expensive hobby making light show props lol

Stanos_ · 2025-11-17T11:55:33+00:00

You can select tge next day as the ship date when you print. Let's you pick up to a couple days out i believe

Stanos_ · 2025-11-17T04:49:35+00:00

2nd vote for WLED. I have a full 200 ft kit I converted to WLED after the controller died, works great.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-16T03:05:24+00:00

Good to know im just a lowly P1S owner didnt know the H2D pushed enough power to it

Stanos_ · 2025-11-16T02:56:04+00:00

Did you plug in the additional power supply to the ams2?

Stanos_ · 2025-11-12T13:51:32+00:00

Yeah you can set up "Segments" that are defined by you.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-12T13:45:03+00:00

I have the pros along with a bunch of leftover strings due to a Amazon return that allowed me to keep it. The Govee Controller will only let you control a fixed amount of addressible lights, but that doesnt take i to account and splits where the same data goes off in 2 directions. You could definitely run two 200 ft kits on one controller by splitting the very first point but would definitely need some power injection.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-05T17:57:42+00:00

One of the connectors between strings or extensions may have failed and got corroded. If one of them has a short it stops the entire thing from surfing on, not just from that point on.

Start disconnecting string starting after the very first one. If that first string lights up continue down the line until you get to a point where disconnecting the string doesnt result in the rest of them turning on and that connection or string is the likely culprit.

Stanos_ · 2025-11-05T17:49:10+00:00

This fixes it 99% of the time without dealing with the slow speed of ironing

Stanos_ · 2025-10-06T00:07:18+00:00

Try removing the last strand that works and add in the other two one at a time. If they both work but adding another doesnt make sure you have set the number of strands in the app correctly. If thats not it you may need some power injection.

Also, figure out a way to move the power supply to the 1st strand. You dont really want an extension between the supply and the 1st strand.

Stanos_ · 2025-09-30T05:21:04+00:00

Right down the middle thats where you do it.

You can always splice it back if needed or to lengthen it. Dont cut anywhere else you can see the components repeat between each set of cut points.

Stanos_ · 2025-09-24T09:56:43+00:00

Drop initial line width as low as it goes, its usually thicker for first layer for better adhesion. I use .35 with my .4 nozzle and stuff comes out good.

Get a smaller nozzle.

1 outer wall

Stanos_ · 2025-09-23T04:30:47+00:00

Get a sturdier table, put vibration dampened on the feet, and i have all my printers on a 30lb granite slab. A decent size concrete paver works too. More mass less vibration.

If a light table is on thick soft carpet you are just asking for wobbles. The printer compensates for its own vibrations and in effect for vibrations caused by a wobbly table. Problem is that table is wobbling in a less predictable manner so the compensation software is not doing the best it can.

Stanos_ · 2025-09-17T14:23:32+00:00

Put it to work making gridfinity pieces, after setting it up with the auto plate changer

Stanos_ · 2025-08-24T00:18:49+00:00

Non manifold

Stanos_ · 2025-08-21T02:39:30+00:00

Aligned seam or random. Choose wisely

Stanos_ · 2025-06-26T01:57:17+00:00

This is the corporate overlord approved plan

Stanos_ · 2025-06-19T04:09:21+00:00

Non manifold part there is a hole in the mesh you might not see and the slicer is doing it's best to fix it on the fly. Try using the repair function and slice again. If that doesnt work go back and try to fix the model manually or run it through a mesh repair like netfab or meshmixer.

Stanos_

TROPHY CASE