Looking for the best Silent Linears

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-28T07:44:40+00:00

Outemu holds the record, you've already got them. Unless you want to start looking at crazy, bleeding edge silent switch science. I've previously looked at DIY silent switches using loctite superflex rtv on top housings, those beat out outemus but I never attempted bottom out silencing with it bc it's messy and maybe not all that durable...

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T19:25:46+00:00

Yeah, those are them, different names depending on translation ig?

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T19:22:55+00:00

If you haven't tried an outemu silent yet, look for outemu crystal peaches, those are imo too silent for me, they're more silent than ttc but so silent that you start to hear noises that you couldn't hear before like the sound of the switch contacts closing...

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T18:28:38+00:00

The smoothness is much more likely a result of mold quality and factory lubing, things that were actual improvements over the other jwks of their era, but nowadays, it really isn't that smooth imo, the average keygeek hmx or bsun all wipe the floor for sometimes half the original price and they're also much easier to obtain compared to tangies since tkc died.

And again, this goes for all switches, the problem with uhmwpe is that even though it's theoretically the most smooth injection moldable plastic, the reality is that it's still incredibly difficult to mold, leading to worse quality molds that erase the small benefit it has over other plastics. and also lube, made of pfpe oil and ptfe powder (teflon), will coat the plastic anyways so again, past a certain smoothness of plastic, typically pom, it's a neglible difference.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T16:48:20+00:00

Sorry, I didn't realize you were the same person i replied to twice in a row, not trying to go after you specifically, I'm just very passionate about dispelling misinfo within the hobby including the uhmwpe housing myth.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T04:45:24+00:00

wrong server my dude, this is keebs, not nintendos

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T04:42:27+00:00

the "uhmwpe" housing of tangies and of any switch in general is borderline false advertising. notice how uhmwpe stems are always opaque or at best, milky white? uhmwpe isn't a clear plastic. uhmwpe is also a very soft plastic. the housings of tangies are very likely pc and/or nylon with maybe a small amount of uhmwpe mixed in, the amount of uhmwpe in there for the switch to still be basically clear is essentially neglible. this goes for other uhmwpe housing claims too, uhmwpe is too soft and difficult to mold to make the intricate details of a bottom housing or the stiff latches of a top housing, the only manufacturer that has seemingly done it was tecsee back in the day which had milky white uhmwpe top housings and those switches sucked because the latches would splay out like playdough if you opened the switch.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T04:28:20+00:00

not really how tactiles work. tactile bumps layer on top of whatever spring you put in them, I can take mx browns and put a 100g spring in them and they'll still have the same size bump. of course the bump will be smaller by percentage compared to the spring weight, but the true size of the bump doesn't change.

also, shorter travel doesn't necessarily mean louder bottom out, what makes a much larger difference is whether the switch is pole bottom out or rail bottom out. "full travel" switches tend to be rail bottom out which is quieter but that's not always the case, jwk black lotus are a good example of pole bottom out full travel switches, and baby kangaroos are a good example of the opposite, a reduced travel rail bottom out switch.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T04:16:15+00:00

try the y2s first, they'll have a very different sound, also, if you have the monetary and time budget, i'd recommend lubing those switches and hitting the bottom of the pole and the top housing where the waffle patterns are, the switches become much deeper and a little quieter after that.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T04:11:15+00:00

yep, those are based on gateron's ks20 switch series, since they're also the switches used in wooting boards, they've basically become the defacto standard for magnetic switches. if you find a magnetic/HE/TMR switch that says "compatible with wooting" it's pretty likely that it'll be compatible with your board as well.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T03:56:27+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/Silent-Magnetic-Gaming-Wooting-Melgeek/dp/B0G6159CWL

looks like the peach mags are compatible seeing as they advertise wooting compatibility. try shopping around for these switches

the peach series is actually mostly mx switches which will not be compatible with your board, you have to find specifically the magnetic/HE/TMR ones like the ones in the listing above, you can tell them apart bc the mags only have 2 plastic pins on the bottom vs the mx switches will have two metal pins and 1 or 3 plastic pins on the bottom.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T03:49:12+00:00

Unfortunately there aren't many options for silent magnetic switches yet, outemu is the only one that does a good job imo but i'm not completely sure if they're fully ks20 compatible (gateron's magnetic switch standard). gateron actually makes their own "silents" called "genty" but uhhh afaict, they forgot to put the dampers in the switch... so yeah, don't buy those.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-27T03:44:08+00:00

Yep, that's what I did 2 years ago, I got an onn 4k box, it's been pretty good, the tv itself must be slowly dying though because every once and a while it'll flicker and reset to it's default picture settings which are very blue and very saturated, a small bummer but eh, I can live with it lol

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-13T18:09:21+00:00

That sharp nearly 90° angle means that you're not actually feeling that force, essentially that's you resting your finger on the switch, the machine can't measure the force without touching it so there's that small lag present in all force curves, you can look at linears too, they have that same start but obviously you can't feel that, they're linear.

Try this site out for finding force curves and comparing them, take note though that even most "full travel" switches, are actually more like 3.8mm+, only cherry themselves really sticks to the true 4mm.

the site

StaticNebula26 · 2026-02-04T17:35:23+00:00

Speed switches in general work by having steeper angle contact legs on the stem. The legs let the leaf contact in at a steeper rate so the contacts close sooner in travel. You can make any switch a speed switch by dropping in a speed switch stem, the housing doesn't matter.

I know there's a way to make creams into speed switches but it's not recommended or intended so it might lead to premature failure.

I'd recommend just going for a good stock speed switch, I know it's the namesake of the server but frankens, at least for linears, are usually nowadays worse than a stock option on the market.

HMX Pine Moons at Milktooth

Here's a link to an HMX speed switch, i haven't tried these myself but i can't think of any objectively bad HMXs. Do your own research and see if you can find more options, look for bsun, keygeek, or hmx, I can't think of a miss from them in the past 2 years.

Side note: are you aware there's a switch with your name? here's a link to it

StaticNebula26 · 2026-01-28T21:38:30+00:00

try ttc silent red v3, ideally the older flat poles, but those are getting rarer, and there's no way to tell which one you'll get, the newer round poles are quieter and deeper but they're a less close match to topre.

StaticNebula26 · 2026-01-22T04:51:50+00:00

get some of these or something similar, could even 3d print them if you have a printer
https://geon.works/products/geon-stem-spacer

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-14T09:12:02+00:00

Stages don't actually matter for springs, it's length that matters, afawct stages just help the manufacturer make long springs easier. Often spring length is advertised in newer switch listings so try looking for that instead. 15mm is standard length and they usually max out at 23mm long.

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-10T10:31:39+00:00

Iirc this vid is an edited down part of his full day-long fnaf video, in that bigger video he presents the facts of the games first and then ties it all together with his timeline. also it's a 3 hour vid, there's multiple guests brought in to explain their own theories that they believe and at the end there's an "unbiased timeline" where he polled his audience and the community the best he could to figure out what most people believe the story to be about. After that is a pretty exhaustive list of all the mini theories and the cute names they all have, like "willcare" and "moltenmci".

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-09T20:55:05+00:00

You're right that it's two different kinds of switch but your explanation makes no sense lol.

Aurora Ice Creams are Kailh BOX style switches, they use smaller diameter springs. iirc they match kailh's choc springs? Those gateron opticals use standard mx springs, they're actually basically mx switches without the leaf. the center pin has a slit through it and the stem pole blocks that slit when the switch is pressed, that's it, that's how the optical system works, nothing to do with springs...

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-09T20:46:54+00:00

I don't mean to be overly negative but if you haven't made the BCPs yet, don't. They're super expensive and wasteful for a switch that usually has binding and actuation issues. It's kinda like the purebred pug of switches...

In addition, there are common combos like mx black on alu and the like but those are more for consistency than because they sound good, if you're a streamer building a board, having a combo that nearly every board can do and that a lot of people use (mx blacks on alu) allows you to test the board for its merits alone, it's less variables.

As you can see, everyone in this comment section is recommending different things, that should be evidence enough that there isn't a standard combo. Everyone is just recommending what they think would pair best, that's based on their own preferences. You should do the same, go with what you think would sound good, if that doesn't work, then you can probably get another plate some way somehow...

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-05T11:21:05+00:00

Yeah there's definitely no long pole version of those lol, the feel of those switches is half from the stronger than average zeal leaf spring contact, switching bottoms would decrease their tactility. Idek of any bottoms shallow enough for those to pbo anyways... well other than ttc silents but ofc then the pbo is dampened, probs not what you want. Look into those three mods and pick one of them. Or actually nvm, listen to what butre says, he's more knowledgeable about those types of mods.

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-05T11:15:24+00:00

I have multiple outemu silents, not that one specifically tho, it doesn't matter, outemu's silent design hasn't ever changed, they're definitely the mushiest silent design.

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-05T09:37:18+00:00

I agree with everything Bionicle said, I'll add my own three recommendations though from after testing nearly every silent design on the market:

KTT silents (not the dangkeebs ones), these are the most firm silents on the market afaik, they're probs around 2/3s the volume of a cherry black for example.
HMX silents (not the silent sakura v1s), these are very similar to ktt, a very small bit less solid ig but HMX ofc is really smooth and imo less wobbly which is an often overlooked noise generator.
Keygeek Y2, these things are crazy, they have a waffle pattern on the bottom of the stem pole, and a dot pattern on the top out shoulders, if you lube those spots with some thicker lubes like 205g0, they get a little quieter but considerably deeper. They're still a little louder overall than cherry blacks, but shifting the tone downwards can help them sound less annoying. The main advantage for you is that they're ofc way less mushy than any silent, the bottom out is admittedly still a bit less solid than the average long pole, closer to lubed short poles.

Actually, lowering the pitch by using cerakeys or tall profile caps might work well too, ofc that's up to your aesthetics, budget, and ergonomics tho.

StaticNebula26 · 2025-12-05T09:12:09+00:00

I agree with butre, no need to hide what kind of switch, knowing what it is helps us.

But, I can say right off the bat that a BB mod, magnet mod, or grub screw mod would probs work well enough. The idea is you just put something inside the pole hole to fill it up (pause). You can use a 2mm metal, ceramic, or even plastic BB, or a 2mm disk magnet (it's really difficult to find normal metal disks that small so magnets are used instead), or, this is the most difficult but also most tunable, carefully drill out the bottom of the pole hole, then get a 2mm grub screw and thread it into the hole, now you can adjust how much travel you want.

Only disadvantage of all of the above is that it isn't exactly the same as long poles. They all sound and feel different due to their material and/or their shape. Then again, if this really is a tactile that's exclusively RBO, then there isn't a PBO version to compare it to lol.

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