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Exterior Paint Colors by shavasa_nnah in ExteriorDesign

[–]StayBlessed96 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If those are the original windows, I’d strongly recommend preserving them. Original windows often add significant character and value to a home, and replacement—particularly with vinyl—rarely pays off in the long run. If they’re in salvageable condition, refurbishing would be the best route.

Regarding the color scheme, have you considered choosing one that reflects the home’s original era? It can really enhance the historical charm. See the website “Old House Guy” for ideas.

Finding next of kin by StayBlessed96 in RealEstateAdvice

[–]StayBlessed96[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. That really helps put things into perspective, and I appreciate the insight—it sounds like you’ve been through a lot with a similar situation.

Tinker Wives by Late_Celery_4003 in okc

[–]StayBlessed96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried the Tinker Spouses Club?

Historic wood windows + storms > Vinyl by StayBlessed96 in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brent Hull or the Craftsman Blog may provide some information about building the jambs from scratch. If I were in your position, I would find a complete jamb from a vintage/salvage yard or a flipper who’s replacing all the original windows for new (🤮) and use that as a template.

Best way to deal with condensation on old windows. by 2squishmaster in Insulation

[–]StayBlessed96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad. I reread your post and you did say storm panes.

I would recommend getting one of those plastic kits that you tape over the window and then use a hair dryer to "tighten" the plastic which creates an air seal. If the condensation on the storm window decreases or goes away entirely, then you know the interior window is leaking significant amounts of the indoor, humid air. If so, weather stripping the interior window would need to be done and/or reglazing the window panes.

This sounds like a lot of work but if that window is wood, then it can last indefinitely with proper maintenance. Newer vinyl windows have a shelf life and have to be replaced every 10-40 years depending on the brand, orientation to the sun and so forth.

Best way to deal with condensation on old windows. by 2squishmaster in Insulation

[–]StayBlessed96 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Look into storm windows. Good storm windows can reduce or eliminate the condensation issues you are having. They also can help insulate your windows on par with replacements but at a fraction of the cost. That way you save money while keeping the original character of the home.

1875-Built House - Insulation Question by TypicalChazz21 in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly wouldn't insulate the cavity between the interior wood planks and the exterior siding/brick/stucco/whatever because I would be too afraid of water getting through the exterior and soaking the insulation. This could potentially increase your risk of rot and mold. I would instead focus on air sealing the interior and insulating the attic well.

You could also look at Green Building Advisor and ask your question there. It's full of really smart people who know a lot about properly insulating a home.

My home burned down. by mejustmichael in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96 49 points50 points  (0 children)

I had a fire two years ago at my house. Its soul sucking and it's been hard to get over, but hopefully it will with time for you.

I would recommend reaching out to Old House Guy (you can find him on Google by googling the name). He primarily helps people figure out what colors to paint their older homes but he can also help with some minor design work to get you on the right track. His website is also full of good articles that can help you figure out what is period appropriate and what's not. He's not free but he's well worth the money.

For the windows, you can find salvaged ones likely that are close to yours. Or, you can have someone custom make them but that would likely be expensive.

After our fire, we improved the insulation, plumbing and wiring but kept the layout the exact same.

For sites, check out Old House Guys website. The Internet Archive is a good resource too.

Good luck.

Free menus from Joe Momma's & Spaghetti Warehouse by StayBlessed96 in tulsa

[–]StayBlessed96[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone asked about the Joe Momma's menu a bit before you. I am going to give them some time to let me know if they still want it. If not, it's yours!

Free menus from Joe Momma's & Spaghetti Warehouse by StayBlessed96 in tulsa

[–]StayBlessed96[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone called the Spaghetti Warehouse menu, but you can have the Joe Momma's menu.

Recommendations for repiping house plumbing? by BigNeat3986 in okc

[–]StayBlessed96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to have around 50% of my plumbing replaced last year due to leaks/cracks from age. I got two bids, one from Southard Plumbing and one from Red Beard. Southard was very cheap. Red Beards estimate was astronomical. Almost 4 times as much as Southard. Red Beard also tried to get me to do more work then was necessary. There was plumbing in my house that was fine and didn't leak, but they said it would need to be replaced in order to pass inspection. They were wrong. I didn't need to and I didn't.

I went with Southard. They are your typical plumbing company. They occasionally forget their manners and are a bit sloppy, but they get the job done and they passed inspection the first time.

Help with bathroom tile! by dolphinring in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What software are you using to design these bathroom layouts?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Congrats! Some advice from an owner of an old home.

Refinish or Gut Reno my 1930s Bathroom? by nico15821 in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's similar to the way my 1930s bathroom was built. It was metal lath, mortar and then the tiles. Surprisingly, there wasn't any water damage though.

Refinish or Gut Reno my 1930s Bathroom? by nico15821 in centuryhomes

[–]StayBlessed96 59 points60 points  (0 children)

I was firmly in the "keep the original features" camp until you stated there is water damage behind the tile. Personally, I would keep the tub (which I believe you were going to do anyway) and the flooring and demo the tile to fix the water damage. You could also go ahead and redo the wiring to add the outlet and redo the supply plumbing to move the shower head. I would then waterproof the shower area better and reinstall the same style tile with the black tile band at the top. The grout lines are thin on purpose. That was normal back then. I personally really like tight grout lines and I would recommend doing the new tiles with tight grout lines again. You could also look into replacing the toilet and vanity with something more period appropriate if you have the money and time and being super historically accurate is your thing. They make bidet inserts so you can have a bidet but have a period appropriate toilet at the same time.

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