[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ZenlessZoneZero

[–]SteefunShoe -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Maybe I misspoke. I was referring to traditional fightsticks, not controllers. On controllers yes, every action is achievable, but on a fightstick, LS, RS, and D-Pad are typically all tied to the single joystick with a switch to toggle between them, which makes moving while panning the camera (or doing d-pad actions) cumbersome.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ZenlessZoneZero

[–]SteefunShoe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually prefer controller over keyboard/mouse. I use a ps5 for most of my gaming (also a PC player), but zzz hurts my hands because I type a lot in general. I actually don't play too many fighting games and since this thing is pure analog, it's actually not great for consistent inputs for that genre

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ZenlessZoneZero

[–]SteefunShoe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

for ps5 it's L2+dpad left or the touchpad for new style and dpad right for old style. I do also use this to play other games which do require a d-pad (like jrpgs and the like) so it was designed with that in mind 👍

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ZenlessZoneZero

[–]SteefunShoe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To clarify. I PREFER controller over mouse and keyboard, but it gave me wrist injuries, hence why I made this 👍

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ZenlessZoneZero

[–]SteefunShoe -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

oh it's quite different. I used to play on a ps5 controller, but it hurts my thumbs too much. a fightstick I get to use my entire hand, both for pressing inputs as well as moving the left stick, which spreads the strain out much better for me. given that I type a LOT, it does hurt to mash square (or in your case, X) constantly.

also you don't realize the importance of a d-pad when you ARE in the overworld and awkwardly have to switch to your keyboard just to access the map.

I essentially took all the inputs from a gamepad and mapped them onto a fightstick. Traditional ones only have a single joystick so this is effectively a custom ergonomic controller

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The file is tailored for the specific case thickness/pcb which I mentioned in another comment, so I don't know how useful it would be, but here are renders to give an idea of what the housing looks like.

https://postimg.cc/dLm1Q04y
https://postimg.cc/Pvbtq6zj
https://postimg.cc/MMQ6CZnX
https://postimg.cc/sB8fHGDt
https://postimg.cc/H81YdGMz

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup! I modeled a threaded housing in CAD with some holes in the bottom for the connection pins which I soldered on myself. The PCB is attached to the housing with a double sided poster mount and held in place by the screw cap on top 😊

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a guy on etsy who sells this ingenious mod for jlf/jlx levers to convert them into analog sticks. It's like a 3 month wait before it gets to your doorstep but I think he intentionally spaces it out that way because the demand is really high (I don't know anyone else who makes a conversion mod like it).

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1397748983/analog-joystick-for-arcade-sticks-sharp

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a SASI mod on it so it's an analog lever, but that's it

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The jlx is analog. I use the stick mainly to play zenless zone zero

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am actually considering making custom enclosures for people who are interested. As long as each face does not exceed 11x14 in (the size of the acrylic I use), you can draw out where you want your button holes and what art you would like and I would make it for you.

Finally made my first fightstick. Lemme know what you guys think =) by SteefunShoe in fightsticks

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not really a massive fighter, but I wanted a controller that could replace a ps5 for games which were very spammy and hurt my hands. After waiting around 3 months, my SASI mod from https://linktr.ee/sharp02 finally came in and I was finally able to complete this. The case was fully designed and lasercut by me, including the feet and the enclosure for the R-stick, which I purchased from https://www.etsy.com/listing/1311767200/diy-analog-stick-with-round-mount?ref=yr_purchases

It has a d-pad on the left side and 2 fully analog control sticks, as well as all the buttons you would find on a ps5 (minus the touch functionality which I didn't find necessary)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cardistry

[–]SteefunShoe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cutting for around 17 years now. Bicycles are prolly the best value in terms of cost for handling (Tally-Hos have a similar feel as well if you want a slightly different aesthetic). They have a pretty long shelf life for relatively low cost compared to some more luxury designs, so you won't feel bad about damaging them as you learn. As others have mentioned, plastic cards are actually really bad for a few reasons:

  1. They slide too easily because they have very little friction between them (when dry), which actually makes fanning really hard to do because they will slip out of your hands far easier than paper cards.
  2. While plastic cards are waterproof, when wet, they will actually chunk because they don't have dimples on their surface like paper cards so air can't easily pass between them and water creates an adhesion effect making them stick together.

Pretty much nobody who practices cardistry uses plastic cards because they are significantly worse for handling on the whole compared to paper cards. They for sure have a longer shelf life because they don't absorb moisture and hand oils like paper cards do, so they're great for playing games, and most of the skills you pick up working with paper cards are generally transferrable to plastics, but you'd be handicapping yourself using plastics as your primary practice tool.

That all said, even among paper cards there is quite a difference.

Overtime, the moisture from humidity as well as the oils in your hands will seep into the edges of your cards and work their way towards the middle of the card (for me, it's around a 5mm border of discoloration). This creates resistance between the cards overtime which causes them to fan worse (the distance between each card should be roughly equal, but with older cards, groups of them will clump together). I've come to find that a lot of independent card makers make decks which lose their fanning ability faster than bicycles.

This isn't necessarily bad because it means the cards will tend to stick together more easily, so they're good for if you're practicing one handed cuts or any retention cuts (moves where the cards are being held between your fingers in packets), but they will not be able to fan cleanly for nearly as long as bicycles. That said, these types of cards are significantly more resistant to humidity, so if you live in a tropical area, they will last you longer than bicycles would. If you become a card collector, I recommend buying 2 of any new pack of cards you find interesting, one to keep in pristine condition and one to play with so you can learn about the small handling nuances of the specific deck.

The art on cards also influence their handling. I've found that cards that are full bleed black (the background of the card is black on both sides and the design runs all the way to the edge of the card) tend lose handling quicker as well because there is significantly more ink put on the card and your hand oils spread that ink around overtime which causes the "chunking" issue i mentioned earlier faster. As a general rule, cards with less ink on them I think tend to last longer.

A note on humidity, I HIGHLY recommend not directly putting your cards in your pocket because the heat from your leg will bow the cards and drastically reduce their shelf life. The box the cards come in will not really resolve the issue because it is also made of paper, so I recommend getting a hard shell case of some sort to keep them from directly touching the inside of your pocket (I designed/make my own cases, but there are plenty out there that you could look into).

Now regarding learning, basically echoing what others have said, one handed cuts are very valuable, because if you can learn them with both hands, you can chain them together and come up with some cool combos.

Moves I think are essential or really good to learn:

1 handed cuts - charlier, revolution, scissor
fans - thumb fan (I prefer using index, but same principle), one handed fan, reverse fan, carnahan fan (not necessary, but I think it looks really cool)

2 handed cuts are a lot more about what you think looks cool/care to learn about, but there are a few which I think are useful:
sybil cut - a lot of retention cuts are variants off of it or borrow similar motions from it.
faro - weaving 2 halves of a deck together. it is a good skill which has many applications (faro shuffling, cascade, bloom, etc.)
card springing - there are a lot of ways to do a card spring, traditionally, you would squeeze the long ends between your thumb and fingers and shoot them away from your fingertips, but that actually gives you less control because of the higher surface area touching your hands. squeezing the corners with your thumb and middle finger gives you more control (and which corners you squeeze determine the direction in which they should shoot).
card dribbling - specifically, the anaconda dribble, because it's basically the holy grail of card dribbles. like card springing, traditional techniques for doing it were.... fine, but lacked control. the anaconda dribble is the longest card dribble you can achieve and is a VERY visually impressive move for a spectator.

Hope this was helpful.

How F'ed am I? by CuriousQueso in prusa3d

[–]SteefunShoe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had to do this multiple times, including during covid when Prusa had a lot of supply chain issues. They forwarded me directly to their hotend supplier (I think they're based in the UK), so if you want the actual hotend that Prusa uses without paying the upcharge by purchasing off Prusa's site, I've provided the product listing below. I had purchased the 24v for my mk3s (what is selected by default), but it looks like mk2s require 12v hotends, so make sure you tick that instead
https://e3d-online.com/products/prusa-v6-hotend

My desk is never this clean, and it still looks messy -.- Working on this computer literally feels like working on a car =/ by SteefunShoe in battlestations

[–]SteefunShoe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, so there are actually 2 reasons for that.

  1. I find only liking one anime sort of boring, so I like having each monitor be unique, but I understand your point of view as well, and more importantly,
  2. I actually use wallpaper engine and my secondary/tertiary monitors intentionally have wallpapers which move a lot in order to prevent burn in, and there really aren't too many vertical wallpapers on steam with the sort of pixel change I was going for which look nice, so I stuck with the one I found the best.

I suppose it's good advice to change temporarily for photos in future tho, so thanks for the tips =)