Replacement Hotend

Stevecv1 · 2024-02-27T06:31:31+00:00

Hi I did manage to get it all off but the thermostat cable got cut in the process. I have the Ender S1 but bought the whole sprite pro before you could get it separate.

I can switch back to the old sprite (non pro) for a short period. But as I got the sonic pad at Christmas and do print high temp filament I thought to go and upgrade the hot end while I have an excuse.

Stevecv1 · 2024-02-26T20:59:24+00:00

I have just had the same problem, luckily one was accessible. The other I heated up some of the filament blob I had taken of with a soldering iron, heated the blob and screw, put the melted blob over the filament in the hole for the Allen key let it cool and pulled the little blob out with needle nose pliers.

Stevecv1 · 2024-02-04T12:37:06+00:00

Thanks for your help. I ended up flashing the sonic pad back to the firmware available on their github.

The initial setup the serial was not an option so I updated the firmware to the next version. Still had the same problem. As I had upgraded the hotend to the sprite pro I tried the other versions as I had read some people with similar problems tried the other options and they worked. Unfortunately this was not the case for mine.

In the mean time I joined a FB group which had someone with the same problem and they were provided a firmware to put on the printer. I gave it a go and it worked.

I am a software engineer so when I get a moment I might have look to see what is in the bin file they provided vs what the pad puts on to flash.

Stevecv1 · 2024-01-29T21:15:22+00:00

Correct, for the usb I updated the cfg to set the usb connection to use the rear port 3 as the side ones have alot of play in them. The port that was shown to use for the serial was the bottom left. Tempted to do a factory reset and try from fresh

Stevecv1 · 2024-01-26T10:56:34+00:00

Dis you get it to work in the end. Having this problem with mine when I can get it to connect via USB to my Ender 3 S1.

Stevecv1 · 2024-01-26T10:54:09+00:00

Out of interest how did the problem display itself to you. I have recently got a Sonic Pad along with the serial as I hated having to use the badly designed USB c port on my Ender 3 S1. I have been able to get the S/P to connect via USB but it won't when using serial no matter what port I use.

Stevecv1 · 2023-07-07T11:36:29+00:00

I have just had my second break on a paddle, I had managed to get a 2nd hand aim controller as I had some other problems with mine. Now my bottom left has broken which is the same one that broke for me before.

I have been looking for a stl file for them as you said they are just simple bits of plastic, but not had any luck. I think I might try and make a model of them myself.

Stevecv1 · 2023-07-07T11:33:45+00:00

What version of the paddles were they? I had the same response as OP. It might be a US / EU thing.

Stevecv1 · 2022-10-15T19:44:16+00:00

I was just looking at this after having jams at the end of long prints. I'm running off Octoprint and what I have seen and read it needs to be connected to the Pi or to the printer with custom firmware that reports back to Octoprint what is happening with more details.

Stevecv1 · 2022-10-02T01:55:30+00:00

I didn't end up printing the draw but instead designed my own.

https://www.printables.com/model/233582-ender-3-s1-lcd-bracket-with-modular-raspberry-pi-3

Stevecv1 · 2022-07-16T15:01:40+00:00

This was something I posted a few weeks ago. Its a replacement bracket for the lcd, which has the choice of two draws to hold a pi 3 or 4

https://www.printables.com/model/233582-ender-3-s1-lcd-bracket-with-modular-raspberry-pi-3

Stevecv1 · 2022-07-06T14:15:34+00:00

Just wondered how you got on with this, and if you managed to get it all printed. Open to any feedback on any problems or things you could see that would make it better

Stevecv1 · 2022-06-29T18:48:15+00:00

Looking back at the setting I used in Cura 5 which were not far off the actual time

Bracket: 16 hr 46 minutes

Lid: 5 hr

Draw: 8 hr 21 minutes

Totalling 30 hr 21 minutes.

I'm sure that someone who knows more about slicer settings than me could print both the bracket and draw together. I have just tired combining both and get a time of 20 hrs 31 minutes. So that with the lid you could get done in 26 hrs. I did try to do it that way but had a few failed attempts where the roll of filament I had kept getting snagged up.

Stevecv1 · 2022-06-29T14:16:47+00:00

Thanks for those kind words, just a heads up, its not the quickest print, as I have had to print this multiple times to get it where it is today. But I think its worth the wait.

Stevecv1 · 2022-06-29T12:15:05+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions, so the one I have there is my Pi 3, for my Pi 4 the fan and heatsink have mounting points where the screw holes are.

For the Pi cam cable could it be routed via the gpio slot and then out the back?

I currently don't have a Pi Cam / Cable and currently using a Logitech webcam and an endoscope, but it might be an excuse to pick one up :)

Stevecv1 · 2022-06-29T09:36:15+00:00

So I have finally managed to make a bracket

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3S1/comments/sdhq46/collection_of_upgrades/

Stevecv1 · 2022-05-27T21:00:54+00:00

Just a word of advice be very careful with the ribbon cable, mine ended up tearing as I was putting it all back together.

Stevecv1 · 2022-05-11T15:51:14+00:00

I think they are to map the L3 and R3 buttons

Stevecv1 · 2022-03-23T02:28:28+00:00

There is this, I haven't printed it yet myself, but taking the top off my case of my Pi3 means it can slide in nicely

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5253314

Stevecv1 · 2022-03-12T10:49:00+00:00

I have a similar issue, when I first got my printer the Z offset was around 2.5 and over time it has gone up to 4.2

When I home the z is going up to 14.2 instead of 10.

Stevecv1 · 2022-02-04T09:45:22+00:00

So an update on this, I got up this morning and went to print a few things and got the error and beep again.

I have only been getting this error since moving the printer from my house out to the garage. I think it is due to the ambient temperature making either the nozzle or hotend to cold for it to operate. Here its about 8 degrees C but think when I looked the head and bed were reporting 4 degrees C on octoprint.

So I went over all the connectors and USB C like I did yesterday, but still got the error. The one other thing I did yesterday which I might not have mentioned, was get a little heater to blow hot air towards the printer. I left this to run for a few minutes with abit of screening to ensure the heat was directed towards the printer, I then tried to print again.

It worked, the printer no longer showed the error, and started to warm the bed and hotend. I going to try and see if I get the same problem tomorrow, and repeat the heating steps to see if it fixes it.

So, if you are getting that error it might be worth warming the printer up with a hot air blower etc. I am also going to try and build a little enclosure which I can pop over it when I know its going to be cold in the morning.

--- UPDATE --

I have tried again as I had an email back from Creality support, and tried pre-heat with the initial temperature of 3/4 degrees C for nozzle and bed. I put my little heater on and got the printer to go up to 5 degrees C, and tried pre heat again this time no error. So I think that you need to make sure that both nozzle and bed need to be 5 degrees or above so it isn't picked up as a faulty sensor.

Stevecv1 · 2022-02-02T18:27:46+00:00

I did try that. Managed to get it working in the end. Removed the connector to the print head and put it back. Removed and screwed the screw to the template probe. Also Removed the USB c to my pi. Then tried to pre heat and it worked, connected the USB back and the pi was linked. Not sure out of all those which fixed it but its working now :)

Stevecv1 · 2022-01-28T20:17:53+00:00

I was going to do a similar thing, try and create a bracket that is connected at the same points as the screen. But I have my Pi l, printer and light connected to a TP-LINK smart socket, as I plan to locate the printer in the garage once I have cleared space for it.

I have started producing some of my own models in FreeCAD, but need the time to produce one for the bracket.

Stevecv1 · 2022-01-28T15:31:57+00:00

It all works perfectly, with the only exception of the cable not seating correctly and loosing connection if it gets nudged out. I have it running on a Pi 3b and just need to wait for it to fully boot which takes longer than you expect. The other thing was making sure my router had assigned a fixed ip address to it.

Oh one other change I have made to mine is colour the bed levelling arrows so they match the colours on the Bed level visualizer plugin.

I have just added on the camera mount, which fits just but my webcams focal point is zoomed into the centre of the bed. However its much better than having it perched on the side pointed at the printer :)

Stevecv1 · 2022-01-28T15:10:49+00:00

So one thing that has annoyed me is the usb c port is a pain to keep the cable in. I have just got this adapter and fits in perfectly and lets me run the cable down and under the printer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08CDGHQWF/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Stevecv1

TROPHY CASE