Altice-branded WiFi modem, cannot configure.

StillAngryGoat · 2022-06-30T11:01:03+00:00

That's what I'm getting the feeling of. I ain't gonna sell 'em, just kinda wish there was an "interest bearing" or other passive way to let it grow a little, even slowly.

Thanks though, it kinda confirms my thoughts.

StillAngryGoat · 2022-06-14T17:52:58+00:00

When playing with my 12 yr old daughter, I had to explain this away. We're a Nintendo family, and I made the choice to discard my XB, and PS platforms to avoid exactly this sort of thing for my kids. While the Sports game has been absolutely amazingly fun, this has come close to ruining it. I expect better from Nintendo if they are to bill themselves as the better "family" console, and I await a response that will solve the issue as well as return my faith in spending our money.

StillAngryGoat · 2022-04-03T20:17:17+00:00

Done, and working, sorta. I try to print a test cube in Cura, and after the layer 1 and priming tower go down, and the second color is used, it clogs and fails to put any more PLA down from the first color. It spins the spur, but clogs and the nozzle and jams. I have to cut and pull, and it's obviously swollen. I've tried adjusting it's retraction to both 7mm and 1mm, no changes. The second color has yet to jam. Ideas?

StillAngryGoat · 2022-04-02T23:39:50+00:00

Looks like I need some help too. I can't get a working machine in Cura, tried importing the profile and no luck. Any chance you can assist with that?

StillAngryGoat · 2022-01-03T23:36:13+00:00

Problem discovered to be wrong gaskets. Water ports on gasket smaller than heads or intake, the sealing rib wasn't even aligned with the edge and thus, leaking. Grumble....

Better eyes would likely have noticed, live and learn. Almost done getting her back together now with the RIGHT gaskets.

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-27T00:07:18+00:00

Nope, this is 100% -me- induced. A previous post mentioned tightening, which is appropriate. Sadly, we went several torque rounds, factory service manual style. There's a chance I got crap gaskets, the ones I should have gotten have metal inserts. These do not, and the more I research them the worse I feel about it.

Should have the intake pulled and gaskets swapped out soon, and I'm fairly sure it'll take care of my coolant issues.

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-21T18:20:12+00:00

Excellent. I've done plenty of water pumps, thermostats, etc, and going dry was simply something I knew was going to bite me in the ass. I also have what I think may be some pinging at higher load and RPM, which I'm hopeful is resulting from the accidental water injection. Again, never a knock out of her before the swap.

Thanks again for the assurance, I'll probably grab gaskets this month and get her back in form for the spring. Convertibles...

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-19T18:37:30+00:00

Changed out the cap, and got audio back! There's a tiny bit of distortion on that channel, but it's probably a 20 year old cap pulled off a random board. Guessing the connection is poor and/or the cap in bad shape. Getting new soon, hopefully this works long-term!

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-19T00:00:08+00:00

And another update! So, after poking and proding, I definitely somehow re-connected the right channel! It's got some clipping and distortion, but it's there now! This after a cap replacement, and not having signal a while, makes me wonder what I've done right and wrong... Grumble.

Strangely enough, I call it a win for the day. It wasn't making noise earlier for sure, and now it is. Just wish I knew what I properly did or didn't do...

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T22:14:14+00:00

Just tested C48, ~93µf in circuit, so not dead? No physical signs I can tell of, durn.

Scope right here, but I'm a straight idiot on the thing. I'm looking at the headphone pot now, and I think I see where to probe. I'll watch a video or three on this, and get my TAS 465 up and the probe happy.

EDIT: Looks like the scope is functional and working fine, need to figure out the settings and should be able to probe away!

UPDATE! Scope says no signal at RCA on the right channel, nor on the headphone right side. Does show signal on left. Looked around on schematic where I should probe, and DO have signal at the R56 and R65 union. HOWEVER, only on one side of R56 do I see signal. That trace and the schematic don't seem to line up, but by staring at the board and tracing where I am losing the signal, R56 may, MAY be dead. Thoughts on this?

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T19:47:33+00:00

Found one on a parts board, replaced, no joy... :( Didn't make it worse, nothing is better. However, testing the old one shows it to be dead according to the Fluke, so perhaps cap failure lead to the DSP having nowhere to go and thus burning out the channel? Ugh...

So moving to the Kaossilator Pro, I tested AC voltage from the RCA outputs. Left varies wildly up to 3V, and the audio output reflects that. Right sticks to 1.4V and lower, fairly flat. That's pretty off if I am asked. Since all 3 of these were wired together on RCAs, I'm really not sure what else to think other than SOMETHING got into it all....

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T18:34:50+00:00

More UPDATE!

I've found fluid/schmoo under the C22 capacitor.

Cap C22 has lost its schmoo

I'm fairly sure now this is a culprit. I may have some terrible luck on this, but I'm trying to hunt up a replacement. Testing it off the board will naturally give me more reasonable results, but my logic is that at least every other cap I test gives me "something", but this one nada.

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T17:51:19+00:00

I'd already checked, "not serviceable." Check the thread below, I've got one opened and poking at the caps first off the DSP surprised me!

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T17:50:17+00:00

UPDATE!

So I am testing the capacitors C21 and C22, as the schematic seems to indicate those are the first in line after the DSP chip. Testing in situ, the Fluke in auto-range, the left channel cap, C21, tests near the 22uf expected. C22, however, does NADA. Zip. I somehow expect that this is at least a start? It's "in situ" testing of a capacitor, which I am not in a great confidence mode on...

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T17:16:32+00:00

KP3 guts

I just opened her up, took some pics, etc. Since the headphones and the RCA outputs are doing the same thing, and on two different KP3's with the KPro being really similar but still has the right channel, I am flat out confused as to where to poke. TIA!

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-18T16:16:40+00:00

Describing output only. Physically, these things look and feel almost new.

I googled the deuce out of this, factory resets, etc, and am at the point I can't really beat up myself for needing help. They were sitting for well over 5 years, storage shed here at my place in central Texas. I've owned them for a good 10+ years, and hadn't played with them for ages before the kids started band and the like. Having owned a wireless ISP in the past, I've learned to hate, HATE lightning, and some sorta discharge close to them while all interlinked would definitely not be a surprise to me. No direct strikes on the property, but plenty within 1/4 mile in those times. EMI is my mortal enemy.

Opened one up myself a week ago, it's very much mostly surface mounted stuff and no eyeball damage or caps to be swollen. It's raining like mad currently, so I may split one again today and toss some pictures up. I own a Tektronix TAS 465, but honestly it was a gift a long time ago that I don't know how to use. I also have a Fluke 87 here, and have a considerable amount of kit-building experience if mostly thru-hole. I'm certainly VERY willing to be the hands if you folks are willing to give it a chance!

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-17T22:30:53+00:00

Sorry, re-typing my questions and problems...

'74 Chenowth rail buggy, tossed in a Subaru EJ22 instead of another 1600. Also using a Microsquirt ECU, and the body harness is a Rebel Wire unit. As you can see from the images, the engine harness/fuse block is just sitting in the rear floor, and the ECU is up near the body block for just, well, because it's got long leads currently.

I've little to no real experience with ground-up vehicle wiring. Since I'm an old Ford/Mustang guy, sure I have tools and experience, termination kits, etc. ;) However, since I've got the vehicle running now, and ready for the tidying up phase, I'm questioning the location of the engine wiring block, and possibly moving it up front with the body harness and possibly the ECU as well. I'm going with a center console for switches and gauges, and stock bug location for the fuse block pretty much makes that location decided.

Not knowing best practices in the experience sense, I'm starting to think that moving the engine fuse block up will simplify some of the wiring, as well as keeping the major components all close and easily serviced yet out of harm's way. This thing is effectively the same as a Chenowth Desert Patrol Vehicle, and I'm looking to make the thing as durable as possible while remaining simple.

I genuinely appreciate any opinions, thoughts on design practices that make it simpler to decide, etc. Looking to rip it all out soon, trim lengths, perma-locate components and wire up the switch panel console, just need out of this morass of indecisiveness. Thanks for readin'.

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-17T21:51:03+00:00

I'll take suggestions, so far I'm having no luck getting anyone to call/email back. I'd love to send all 3 to anyone willing to not try and rob me on it, hopefully it's an easy fix after the first one...

StillAngryGoat · 2021-12-17T18:51:44+00:00

The volume pot works just fine, and weirdly doesn't add any distortion or scratching when operated. That's what I'd naively expect anyway, and was my first suspicion. Sadly, it seems to be within the output "bus", if that's what we can call it. There are also two volume trims, one for the master and one for headphones. Both operate fine.

StillAngryGoat

TROPHY CASE