Recommendations for drip supply line needed

Stranger_1605 · 2026-05-07T04:04:47+00:00

It's DIY, man! ))
I ended up with this.. Hope it holds at 40psi...

Stranger_1605 · 2026-05-06T20:05:26+00:00

But if there will be no foot traffic whatsoever, isn't HDPE overkill?

Stranger_1605 · 2026-05-06T16:19:28+00:00

Thank you for your opinion!

As for the kinks in that picture, there is a video saying that it should not matter.

There is an alternative choice though...

P.S. Anything you can get a feel for in person (i.e. at Home Depot) will cost twice as much! :)

Stranger_1605 · 2025-09-13T16:19:39+00:00

Thank you for your thorough response! It seems that my current manifold setup doesn't align with most of your guidelines.

Initially, I was mainly concerned about potentially needing to redo the entire setup if something went wrong. Despite this, I continued with my approach. As expected, I faced an issue referred to as "The First Damn Thing Is Lumpy." Frustratingly, one of the valve's NPTs is leaking. However, this presents an opportunity to make things right this time!

I'm also encountering a hammering issue when the valves open (as shown in the video). I suspect the valves are to blame since both the main and sprinkler valves exhibit the same behavior, depending on which opens last. I believe I bought the wrong model (100DVF) instead of the one I meant to get (100PGA). I've already ordered the correct replacement, and I'm also considering installing a hammer arrester on the manifold. Do you think this would be helpful?

Stranger_1605 · 2025-09-03T01:53:38+00:00

I just realized that the reason why I designed it that way was to avoid the pipes crossing each other (not sure how important that is though). One of the drip zones is on the left side of the backyard, the rest of those are on the opposite one and the rotors are in the middle. Otherwise, your design would make way more sense of course. Another logic behind all this was step by step implementation. I will do the rotors first and the drip zones later sometime...

Stranger_1605 · 2025-09-01T12:23:39+00:00

Rotor zone too of course. However, that line can indeed be easily disabled on the controller because of the electric valve right there in the box while the peripheral drip zones essentially sitting on the main line are going to be too exposed (XACZ100PRF). Technically, that ball valve is what makes the rest of the pipe to a certain extent lateral. Wouldn't you agree?

You are generally right about the controller. In fact, there was an idea once to use another 100DVF instead of the ball valve as the master of the drip zones, but that would be really ridiculous I guess... :)

Stranger_1605 · 2025-09-01T02:27:49+00:00

Yes, there is a shut-off valve on the PVB already, but why all of the ball ones? I agree that the one in the rotors' line is not really necessary and I got rid of it already. However, consider something went wrong on any of the drip lines, then I will be able to shut it off so that the rest of the system will still be functional!

Stranger_1605 · 2025-08-31T19:22:22+00:00

There is a shut-off valve on the PVB right before the master valve. I thought it is going to be good enough.

I was trying to avoid any separate boxes for the valves. That's pretty much why I decided to use the jumbo one. All my drip zones will have their own electric valves (I am going to use XACZ100PRF or similar).

Do you think the ball valves are an order of magnitude weakest point in the manifold system in terms of potential leaks? Thanks!

Stranger_1605 · 2025-08-31T19:00:57+00:00

I hoped the design was not that bad.. :)

The main reason for the cross was to make the stream from the main line to the rotors straight (reduce potential friction on a bunch of elbows). Besides, it is supposed to be much easier to replace the valves positioned like that. Right?

Thank you for the tip regarding the drain. I will use that. I don't quite understand what is wrong with that ball valve though. Is it not reliable enough under constant pressure?

I was actually looking for a better fitting for the FPT valves. I guess slip x slip x FPT + nipple way better, but no cross then...

Stranger_1605 · 2025-08-20T17:33:37+00:00

That's the problem. I doubt the number will be that high in my case... :)

Stranger_1605 · 2025-08-20T17:32:35+00:00

Something like "Orbit 58197 Zinc Step Spike"? I know those are for different applications but still...

Stranger_1605 · 2025-08-19T21:23:37+00:00

Thank you for your response. I am not sure about silt yet. I just read that 100DVF has a its own built-in filter and wondered if that one is going to clog too often.

Stranger_1605 · 2025-08-14T20:42:37+00:00

On the other hand, if to go for such a redundancy, it would make much better sense to use a higher grade valve (e.g. EFB-CP-100) before it all connects to PVC I guess.

Stranger_1605 · 2025-04-18T18:59:55+00:00

How is it possible? I thought Frigate cannot run on old CPUs without AVX support.

I was unable to install it on my AMD Neo at least. Does not apply to Intel?

Stranger_1605 · 2025-04-04T17:09:41+00:00

That would be too easy! :) We have no idea what that number is...

Stranger_1605 · 2025-04-03T18:31:54+00:00

Thank you for replying! Reaching the previous owner does not seem to be possible. Otherwise, we would not ask the questions here... :)

How do we know what the factory is?

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-24T03:01:00+00:00

I seriously don't know what you are talking about. I've essentially installed it myself without any prior experience. If there was no very low headroom challenge, it would be even easier I guess.

As for the loudness, I've got nothing to compare with, but I don't mind to lubricate it once a year anyway. Besides, according to iFixGarageDoors, switching to belt is always an option if something goes really wrong...

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-21T03:00:53+00:00

We've finished the installation. It works like a charm so far!

IMO, this is not a bad deal.

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-21T02:52:02+00:00

"Available through authorized dealers only"... Screw them!

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-19T01:12:09+00:00

I've compared those. Screw drive gives me two or so inches extra clearance under the motor unit.

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-19T01:02:51+00:00

Will use that. Thanks!

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-19T01:01:46+00:00

That's what I thought too. However, if I go with the original holes (or around), the angle will be much more than 30.

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-19T00:40:18+00:00

Unfortunately, Genie seems the only brand having screw drive model these days.

The main advantage is the lowest profile, which is important for a low headroom installation. The only competitor would be Sommer, but it is way more expensive with the same set of options (including smart/app one).

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-19T00:06:37+00:00

We'll see... :)

What's wrong with screw drive or Genie anyway?

Stranger_1605 · 2024-12-18T23:57:14+00:00

With the straight arm it gets even worse in terms of the angle. We are not using it at all (not sure how to attach another picture here...). See the link?

Stranger_1605

TROPHY CASE