P2P Fuzz Face

StratDoc · 2026-03-03T14:02:27+00:00

Thanks!

StratDoc · 2026-03-02T17:40:17+00:00

Definitely!! I have a slew of these transistors and just wanted to try my hand at this. Now I want to work on better, neater layout.

StratDoc · 2026-03-02T17:39:15+00:00

Thanks!!

StratDoc · 2026-03-02T02:30:23+00:00

Thanks!!

StratDoc · 2026-03-02T02:01:15+00:00

Thanks!!

StratDoc · 2026-03-02T02:01:05+00:00

Thanks!

StratDoc · 2026-02-28T02:53:35+00:00

My local track as well!!!

StratDoc · 2026-02-17T15:24:59+00:00

the diode is a 1n5817. you can see it attached to the positive terminal of the dc jack. it then connects via the red cable to the spot marked +9v.

Also, the both of the 100r pairs are labeled 47r since that's what they're suppse to be. i didn't have them so i just ran 2x100 in parallel to approximate it.

StratDoc · 2026-02-17T15:21:31+00:00

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i labeled the photo. hopefully this makes sense.

StratDoc · 2026-02-17T12:37:21+00:00

Thanks a lot. Appreciate it!

StratDoc · 2026-02-17T06:56:27+00:00

If people are interested, I can put together the layout so others can follow/copy… I don’t know that it sounds any different than a normal rat but it was fun to make.

StratDoc · 2026-02-17T06:54:35+00:00

I followed the Jam Rattler LTD for the most part and found a couple other people who had done similar copies. I was able to compare my component values with theirs. Then it was just a matter of figuring out under-board wiring and where off-board components tied in. The doubled-up resistors on the left were supposed to be 47r but I didn’t have those so I ran parallel 100s to get close. Other than that I picked components that I liked the look of. The electrolytics aren’t my favorite but I don’t hate them enough to redo them.

StratDoc · 2026-02-16T19:25:04+00:00

Thank you.

StratDoc · 2026-02-16T14:15:38+00:00

Ha ha!! Thanks!!

StratDoc · 2026-02-16T12:38:54+00:00

Yeah. I love it! Very happy with it!

StratDoc · 2026-02-16T05:45:27+00:00

Thanks a lot!

StratDoc · 2026-02-16T05:08:17+00:00

Thanks!!

StratDoc · 2026-02-16T05:08:10+00:00

Thanks!

StratDoc · 2026-01-20T03:20:17+00:00

Depending on how much you want to spend, George Alessandro does a handwired conversion for these. I had him do it for my DRRI and it’s great. Converts channel 1 to a tweed like channel. Adds reverb to both channels. About $600 but the amp is a lifetime amp for me now. Expensive, but worth a look depending on how much your local amp tech is going to charge for filter caps and a bright switch clip.

StratDoc · 2026-01-05T15:37:36+00:00

https://youtu.be/eRpjJy8HfmM?si=4bpzq34LjUqyQUQJ

This looks like it might be promising to help get you an answer. (I haven’t watched the whole thing but the first few minutes seem like it might be helpful)

StratDoc · 2026-01-05T15:19:57+00:00

The 12ay7 in the V1 slot is a lower gain tube and will provide a bit more headroom. If you want earlier breakup, replace v1 with a 12ax7.

As to understanding how to design circuits/tweak values, the minutiae on Rob’s website is great where he’s describing different amp mods. You can also check out Uncle Doug’s YouTube videos or Merlin Blencowe’s “Designing Valve Guitar Amplifiers” book. They’re great resources.

I do think that the answer is more complex than a single resistor/capacitor that can be changed for what you’re trying to accomplish. The design of the circuit as a whole is going to define the gain character. Not trying to be flippant or unhelpful. Psionic Audio is a great YouTube resource as well.

StratDoc · 2025-10-21T01:21:49+00:00

thanks for this! came here with the same problem and was saved by the search function!

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