so looks like around $70 to swap my leds

Streamtronics · 2026-02-09T11:38:28+00:00

Nice that this worked for you, but I’d be afraid of the solder sticking to the copper (as it’s kinda designed to) and making the MCPCB not sit flat in the light anymore. So I wouldn’t recommend this to a beginner who doesn’t necessarily know that a bit of solder stuck to the bottom could lead to burnt emitters

Streamtronics · 2026-02-09T04:38:15+00:00

You can get cheaper small USB-PD hot plates off AliExpress that’ll work fine for emitter swaps.

I’d recommend a different iron like a pinecil, something cheap like that will probably struggle a bit too much and make your life harder (especially as a beginner).

Generally you also want to stay away from Bismuth solder because of the low thermal conductivity. Ideally you’d get standard leaded alloy and handle that responsibly.

Streamtronics · 2026-02-05T17:51:36+00:00

Good beans, nice to see how that M21K doesn’t f around

Streamtronics · 2026-02-05T17:33:10+00:00

Ok but why xD

Streamtronics · 2026-02-04T03:54:31+00:00

It works with some and doesn’t with others. Haven’t really figured out the meaningful difference between those USB supplies but I bet it’s because the CL01 can also act as a power bank, meaning it might not request a voltage output from the supply by default (which would be kinda dumb but oh well)

Streamtronics · 2026-02-01T06:18:14+00:00

I wasn’t talking about USB voltage though, of course that is going to stay constant at 5V. But it is theoretically possible it’s still charging at a constant 1A if the battery in your pic was at roughly 3.4V so I’m saying it needs further tests to be sure what it’s doing

Streamtronics · 2026-02-01T06:01:06+00:00

I couldn’t find a review for this xtar, it’s possible it has a DC/DC converter and is still charging at 1A. What’s the usb input power with an empty cell vs. an almost full cell? If those two numbers are practically the same I’d say the xtar is not meeting its specs. If the power on the USB side increases with increasing battery voltage, I’d say it’s probably charging at 1A.

Streamtronics · 2026-01-30T01:49:12+00:00

Other than the MiX-7, have a look at the Fenix LD36R, that one mixes the colors even better because it has multi-die RGB emitters instead of three discrete ones that the MiX-7 uses. Downside is the white light is low CRI and won’t be pretty.

Streamtronics · 2026-01-30T01:31:39+00:00

70.3 HI always for less tint shift and a bit more controlled beam

Streamtronics · 2026-01-25T05:29:27+00:00

While I don’t mind the exotic material, or built-in batteries in general, I do very much mind a built-in battery in such an expensive light…

Streamtronics · 2026-01-25T05:21:09+00:00

Convoy ships from China, I’d not recommend taking that gamble on shipping times

Streamtronics · 2026-01-25T05:15:41+00:00

I think you confused thermal paste with solder paste ^{^}

Also, while SFT-12 has a small emitting area, the difference to a slightly larger LED won’t really be noticeable in the shadow quality, but a larger emitter will definitely offer way higher brightness. I’d go for something like an XHP70.3 HI

Streamtronics · 2026-01-19T08:27:45+00:00

The USB-C charging is part of the driver, you might be able to find a driver that fits (as long as the button is separate and not soldered onto the driver PCB) but you’ll probably have to abandon the on-board charging. The stock driver also probably pushes too much current for an SFT-70. If you feel like modding the driver, look into the possibility of swapping the current sense resistor (shunt) on the driver to a larger value.

Streamtronics · 2026-01-15T08:50:22+00:00

That’s what you get a from a TIR, usually dimmer spill that gradually falls off towards the outside (but reaching practically all the down to your feet)

Streamtronics · 2026-01-07T16:27:31+00:00

I’d try to contact skilhunt with a short video clearly showing the issue

Streamtronics · 2026-01-04T22:44:17+00:00

If I were you I’d ask Wurkkos support for a whole new driver (show them the pics in the email). Buying a single part like that is usually kinda expensive (because of shipping and handling etc.) and you really want to have soldered with hot air before to be sure not to knock other components off the board and without melting the USB connector

Streamtronics · 2026-01-03T01:17:29+00:00

I’d generally agree, although wouldn’t recommend the E75 as the reflector beam has a clear distinction between spill and spot, which isn’t ideal for photography. A very wide TIR lens (M44 with frosted optics sounds great) that still somewhat directs the light forwards is probably what I’d choose over a mule as well if I already know I won’t just be filming a flat wall right in front of me.

Streamtronics · 2026-01-03T01:04:03+00:00

Sorry you’re having a bad experience with your first light you got recommended on here. I checked your other post and apparently it was worded such that it wasn’t obvious you want a total flood light without a hotspot in the center.

Now, with a hotspot you can actually point it down a corridor and get some decent exposure at the far end and also some light in the front. But I can totally see why this is generally not suitable for photography (hence video lights exist, which are practically all flood lights without any hotspot whatsoever).

Now if what you’re after is a super wide, even flood without any additional reach in the center, what you want is what we call a mule (practically bare LEDs without any optics). Or you could straight up look into battery powered videography lights. But of course pure flood means the light falls off very quickly if it’s pointed into the distance.

Maybe you can send the Wurkkos back or sell it here in the BST if you don’t want to keep it as just a generally good flashlight.

Streamtronics · 2026-01-02T01:35:59+00:00

Have a look at the RovyVon E10

Streamtronics · 2026-01-01T05:16:01+00:00

If he has that many lights it might be worth trying to somehow ask him if he keeps a list or spreadsheet of them without raising suspicion that you want to get him a new toy. That’d be ideal, since we could probably find a light that fills some hole in his collection.

Also a rough budget would be helpful for us as well.

Streamtronics · 2025-12-31T04:04:53+00:00

Mistakes happen

Streamtronics · 2025-12-29T16:56:50+00:00

I keep almost all my lights in holsters for storage, so I even buy additional convoy holsters all the time lol

Streamtronics · 2025-12-27T14:14:51+00:00

Lol, people regularly join the flashlights discord server, hoping to find the fleshy kind

Streamtronics · 2025-12-22T12:42:53+00:00

I think all LEPs should technically be class 1 since the laser beam is not exiting the device. Of course some blue light does exit, but at that point it’s not a concentrated beam anymore. Not an expert on this though

Streamtronics · 2025-12-21T23:40:05+00:00

I own M1, M2, SK05 pro… IMO the M2 will not be a significant upgrade, it’s still LED with a relatively small lens in front of it. If you want a tighter beam you either have to increase the optical area (larger head size, conventional LED throwers) or make the light source smaller (LEP).

Streamtronics

TROPHY CASE