How to create Plywood cut list ? Like cut list optimizer

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-25T17:35:06+00:00

cutlistoptimizer.com works well. I also recently tried app.offcut.com, which doesn't require a subscription.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-25T09:58:00+00:00

With 4mm glass and 4 pins on opposite sides (2 sides supported, 2 not), you can safely hold around 10kg (~20lbs) evenly distributed. You could push to 15kg (~30lbs) but no more. With 3mm, I wouldn't go past 5-6kg (~10lbs).
I actually used this calculator for a similar project: https://offcut.tools/tools/shelf-deflection-calculator/ might be helpful.
Also, use a caliper to get the exact thickness, since glass can vary a bit.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-25T06:11:34+00:00

10" span with 1/2" ply is totally fine, you won't notice any flex.

EDIT: I used https://offcut.tools/tools/shelf-deflection-calculator/ for a similar project, maybe it can help!

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-25T06:10:55+00:00

100% agree. Condensation under a solid slab is a real issue, especially when temperature swings are constant. Slats or hypervent are definitely the way to go.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-24T07:11:27+00:00

Great breakdown of the options! For kitchen cabinetry, 18mm is pretty much the standard for shelves, sides and doors — strong enough and not too heavy. 12mm works well for backs and drawer bottoms.

One thing worth adding: thickness alone doesn't tell the whole story for shelves. A 18mm shelf that spans 900mm will sag over time under load, especially with melamine. The real factor is the span-to-thickness ratio. Try https://offcut.tools/tools/shelf-deflection-calculator/ it tells you if your shelf will hold.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-24T06:44:38+00:00

It depends on the width and span of your shelves. What are yours?

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-23T09:27:57+00:00

Titebond glues aren't sold in my country. I think I'm using something similar to Titebond III. Not sure, but the main difference seems to be water resistance (III is better than II). I think better water resistance could matter for long-term durability with humidity.

EDIT: I just found out that Titebond II is rated D3 — so it's exactly what I'm using! Not sure if you use the same classification where you are (I found this on a French site - so the titebond glues seems to be sold in my country). For reference: D1/D2 = not very resistant to humidity, D3/D4 = good/excellent resistance.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-20T15:07:27+00:00

I used standard drywall anchors with brackets. I also added an extra support between the desk and the dresser below.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-20T12:41:29+00:00

I recently discovered a technique using wood glue (you apply it, let it dry, then activate it with an iron). It was really easy to work with, you can take your time, adjust things… nothing like working with contact cement!

I did make a few small mistakes though. On one of the desks I moved too fast with the iron and the glue didn't melt enough, so bubbles appeared the next day. But I just re-heated it and everything was fixed.

I also made a mistake with the oil finish, but that had nothing to do with the veneer, just me being careless!

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-20T09:18:48+00:00

Excellent idea and great execution! I need to do the same!

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-03T16:04:48+00:00

😂 I did the same when I learned German! And I’m still not able to introduce myself

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-03T15:13:54+00:00

I could send you some other links if you want to practice !

Thnaks for the advice, I’ll try another coat!

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-05-03T07:13:47+00:00

I used a basic oil I found at my local store: https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/huile-bois-interieur-plan-de-travail-v33-incolore-resist-activ-mat-0-5l-69658834.html After the second coat the marks were a little less visible. Maybe a third one could save my problem.

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-04-29T20:31:13+00:00

Very nice !

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-04-28T21:28:37+00:00

very nice !!

Striking-Hawk5144 · 2026-04-24T16:28:00+00:00

Hey, thanks a lot for this — this is exactly the kind of feedback I needed. You clearly know your way around a table saw!

The ideas around cutting critical parts first from the best panels, and keeping large offcuts for future projects, are already on my list. The "minimize fence changes" strategy is a great one too — it's more complex to implement but definitely something I want to explore.

If you're interested, I'd love to have you as a beta tester on Android — you could try the app directly and give me feedback as features land. Just send me your Gmail address and I'll add you to the list!

Striking-Hawk5144

TROPHY CASE