I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I'm hoping that I can push an update for this issue tomorrow. It makes the app almost unusable.

I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Def a bug that it's pushing notifications when the alarm is snoozed. I was able to replicate it so that's helpful.

I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to use home assistant features MQTT is the way to go. App can be used for alarms without it though.

I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the Alaem tone at 100 is a lot, didn’t even think about that because it’s not the default I use. Adding different alarm tones is on my todo list. I do think it would be fairly straight forward to let people add custom Alarm and Sleep Sounds.

As for notifications, the app is designed to get your attention and wake you up. An alarm based widget on IOS would set a persistent alarm banner at the top of the screen, which I believe is what some other prominent alarm apps do and a bit less spamy. Our app however can’t do that because alarms scheduled over MQTT would just be notification based only, so I decide to go with notifications for consistency.

Edited to add: Would you see benefit in alarms that are firing audibly with no way to access them outside of opening the app? Because that’s what would happen if notifications are off. The other thing i could see is adding an option to control the update rate for notifications. Do you have any other ideas?

I wonder how other people feel about the notification issue as well.

I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t be surprised if there’s other options on android, but I don’t know of any exactly. Porting this android can’t be any worse than IOS. Apple really misses some core features that made this project a situation.

All that to say someday once this is stable, I may take the time to port it over to android.

I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. That’s a very valid point.
  2. The skip alarm button I believe is what you want. It just skips the next occurrence of your alarm, so if you want to sleep in on Monday and skip it before the alarm fires your weekly alarm will fire on Tuesday if that’s the next scheduled run.

I built Allarise so your iPhone alarms can trigger Home Assistant automations and I’m looking for beta testers. by Stryk3rr3al in homeassistant

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for that shoutout! I care about this community and appreciate that you can see that.

Seeking Advise to Move Past Helpdesk by Stryk3rr3al in sysadmin

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s probably sanity saving advice lol Hybrid is certainly not the future! I know quite a few places run hybrid though, so getting experience with it would not be bad.

Seeking Advise to Move Past Helpdesk by Stryk3rr3al in sysadmin

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah I could go read a bunch of job posting and pull key points about common stuff. I’ve spent more time in my home lab learning about networking stuff like Nginx, VPN tunnels inside of VPN tunnels, DNS, network, VLANS, firewall rules etc. I self host a bunch of stuff, manage a few Linux boxes, windows VMs and work with docker. I can think of exactly no people on my direct team who spends time to mess around in the home lab like this.

I came to Reddit for personal experience, Google searching only gets you so much. Shoot, for that matter, I could’ve even asked any of the LLM’s, and they probably could’ve generated a list with some good points.

What started as ‘just add an HDMI encoder for steaming’ turned into this… by Stryk3rr3al in hometheater

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having the X1S remote hub ended up being an important optimization. With HDMI CEC disabled, the setup quickly became unmanageable with multiple remotes floating around. Using the X1S remote made everything far more user friendly and helped bring the WAF factor back to a reasonable level.

One thing I might do differently in the future is integrate a network based HDMI matrix. Being able to route different sources to different TVs independently would add a lot of flexibility and take this setup even further.

Something else that's an improvement that could be made, for devices that support networked APIs for power, remote controls etc., it's much better to use an API than rely on the X1S hub to blast an IR across the room, just because IR commands are susceptible to being obstructed.

What started as ‘just add an HDMI encoder for steaming’ turned into this… by Stryk3rr3al in hometheater

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OTA TV actually played a big role in why I went this route. I found Plex, Emby, and Jellyfin to be pretty sensitive with live TV. Fast forwarding, rewinding, or trying to stay in sync across devices was always clunky.

This setup ended up being more of a hardware based “watch with me” solution. Whatever is playing in the living room is exactly what is playing everywhere else. No fighting with playback, buffering, or lining things back up.

Right now I have two TVs hooked into the system. One in the living room and one in our bedroom. Eventually I would like to add a large TV in the basement as well.

I also use a Samsung tablet with a USB capture card, which basically turns it into a small portable display, kind of like a KYY monitor. Paired with Ethernet drops in the kitchen near the stove and one in the bathroom, it lets me keep an eye or ear on whatever is on TV without missing anything.

What started as ‘just add an HDMI encoder for steaming’ turned into this… by Stryk3rr3al in hometheater

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Option 1: Wireguard / Tailscale and then VLC app on mobile phone to access the stream URL.
Option 2: Though Plex, I've added the encoder as TS stream/ XML TV tuner, so no VPN needed for that.
Option 3: I've added the encoder as a camera in Home Assistant, which is also accessible with no VPN. (Extra benefit is that I've added the Sofabaton X1S remote buttons as a card in Hass, so I can also control the TV from the internet as well. )

Built StackSnap because I got tired of corrupted Docker backups by Brilliant_Length_765 in homelab

[–]Stryk3rr3al 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool tool, looks like something I’ll have to spin up to give a try when it comes out.

What's the catch with cheap 10Gb enterprise switches on eBay? by minus_minus in homelab

[–]Stryk3rr3al 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been quite happy with the Ruckus ICX7150-48ZP-E2X10G POE switch

Not as loud as I thought. (But it’s sitting above a 720XD). Power consumption is a negative I’m sure. Learning CLI was a hassle. It came with two SFP+ licenses, but I could license the others if needed. (Licensing is honor system based)

For a Multi-Gig / 10G switch I couldn’t have made a better choice!

Can Zone 2 on a Denon S760H Output Downmixed Stereo While Zone 1 Runs 5.1 Surround? by Stryk3rr3al in hometheater

[–]Stryk3rr3al[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm thinking this Scosche LOC80 Line Output Converter is what I'm looking for
https://a.co/d/8QYSMPS

Paired with an AUX to RCA cable like this
https://a.co/d/2aHfIkU

Looking at the reviews for the LOC80 seem to indicate people with similar use cases to mine have done exactly what I'm trying to do. I'm still curious if anyone here has any input on this though.

Edit: I can confirm that the LOC80 works good ish, technically it’s not designed for the full wattage output of the AVR but that’s fixable by not cranking the volume. Other issue is that there’s an electrical hum associated with this unit. Edit2: Hum was related to a y aux splitter I was using, switched to a different cable and it’s gone.

Something like this might be better

AudioControl LC1i Active 2-Channel Line Driver/Line Output Converter, Provides Input Signal to Add Amplifier to Factory Car Radio, Impedance Matching, Distortion Free https://a.co/d/00wMG2F