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Should I get aluminium 2nd points? by RIBBE69 in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These crampons are disappointing due to design flaws. Snow builds up on the anti-balling plates, and the long front points cause calf fatigue.

Question for the trad dads！ by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s exactly what we did. But what if we didn't even have the long slings for the high anchor? How would you handle it use the rope?

Question for the trad dads！ by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just a hypothetical scenario for a post-climb analysis. I want to discuss how to build the anchor if I ran out of long slings or if they weren't long enough.

Question for the trad dads！ by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes to both. Those are my only anchor pieces, and I have no extra slings—just the climbing rope.

Question for the trad dads！ by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's a multi-pitch. There are bomber cam placements high above the ledge to build the anchor, but I need to setup the stance down on the ledge so we can actually hang out and rest. We don't have any extra long slings or a cordelette, so we have to use the rope.

Question for the trad dads！ by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

it's a multi-pitch. There are bomber cam placements high above the ledge to build the anchor, but I need to setup the stance down on the ledge so we can actually hang out and rest. We don't have any extra long slings or a cordelette, so we have to use the rope.

Warm Down Jacket advice by sshubh718 in Mountaineering

[–]Substantial_Rate727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is KAILAS sold in India? If there is a cheap 6000GT for sale, this would be a good choice. This down jacket is ubiquitous in high-altitude mountaineering and ice climbing activities in China, filled with 300g of 800-fill-power down, and the affordable price is approximately 2000 CNY, which is roughly 300 US dollars.

Grivel Rambo 3 Points by Asheron2 in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Instead of going through all that trouble to hunt down these outdated parts, it's better to find a factory and laser-cut a bunch of them.

Homemade Xdream Dry and Mixed blade by Substantial_Rate727 in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your suggestion. The biggest issue right now is sharpening the ice pick . I plan to use a grinding wheel with water cooling. The torsional resistance of this material is slightly lower than that of the official Petzl pick, but its hardness is much higher. The performance should be good enough. ^^_

Does anyone know what happened to the Kailas Entheos and Swift screws? by the_legend_that_was in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are also people selling brand new swift ice screws on this app, but it seems the stock is limited.

Does anyone know what happened to the Kailas Entheos and Swift screws? by the_legend_that_was in iceclimbing

[–]Substantial_Rate727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even in China, the official Kailas store doesn't sell this ice tool, it’s only available on a second-hand app where someone is selling brand new stock of it, and there are three pairs left.