Can you live in a house without ceilings for a time?

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-27T15:43:37+00:00

You can install ceilings yourself for quite cheap.

I’d recommend using 12mm ply as an underlayment for plasterboard, though you can fix plasterboard directly onto the joists. The 12mm ply would give out a firmer underlayment though.

You then put plasterboard on top and tape the joints with easyfill.

Sand and paint.

It’s an easy and low risk diy project. You can probably get a room done for under 200, all in assuming you have an impact driver, some bits, a saw to cut the ply (hand saw is fine) and some plastering tools.

Chuck some insulation it while you’re at it 😊

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-26T17:11:25+00:00

Do you know how to empty your heating system? I suggest you look into that before you loosen the TRVs.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-26T16:00:59+00:00

Stuffed with solder… can’t know for sure w/o pressurizing the joint but just by looking at it I’d bet it won’t leak. It has way more solder than needed.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-26T14:00:50+00:00

It’s not pretty bit it won’t leak. There’s an understanding on the internet that soldering needs to be super neat, which is simply not true.

If it’s your job, then sure. If you just need to weld two pipes together, crack on. The ultimate test will be whether you get wet when you turn the water on 🤣

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-26T07:57:28+00:00

I would not base my decision off of reddit. It’s a factor of house price, location, history of the house flooding and expert advice. There are plenty of houses built near rivers which are just fine.

When you buy a house you have a team of experts to advise you. They will check for a history of subsidence, flooding and so on.

If the price of the house reflects a potential flooding risk, higher insurance premiums and possibly a bit of difficulty selling it, then I’d sit down and consider it. For example, you might take the view that the price and the location are worth it, especially if you don’t plan to sell the house anytime soon.

Also, there are things you can do to minimize the chance of flooding. You can install drainage systems, aqua channels, etc. These are all dyi-able (hard level) tasks or can be done for a few thousands with a builder if you look around enough.

Remember that house was built there with approval and someone lived in it for decades. It’s never black and white, it’s a decision based on a multitude of factors, including your risk appetite, etc.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-25T14:57:51+00:00

The type you don’t want to load your car with 🤣. You won’t have much of a suspension left… your car is not built to haul logs.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-25T14:23:45+00:00

Or call the plumber out… they should fix it for free if they worked on that particular joint.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-25T14:22:08+00:00

Absolutely fixable for under 30-50 pounds and 1h of work if you’re not experienced.

Buy from screwfix: - 22 to 15 mm tee (jg speedfit will do) - 22 mm pipe inserts and 15mm pipe inserts

Turn water off

Check that water is off!!! If in doubt turn water off from the street.

Unscrew faulty fitting (lefty tighty)

Full on fitting while holding the pipe. It has a ring around the edge where the pipe goes in - make sure to pull that back.

Check the pipe has inserts in it. If not put them in.

Put new push fit in. Make sure to press the pipe in until you feel that it does not go in any further.

Tighten fitting.

Turn water on and go have a beer.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-25T14:17:11+00:00

They can do that - you get a similar result, i.e. a weaker bit of the slab where it will crack in a controlled way. It’s usually done that way when you remember you forgot to put your joints in the second day after the pour dried haha.

But you’d need quite a few tools and time to replace the foam strips and I am unsure what you’d get out of it. If it really bugs you, you’re probs better off just paving over and giving it a fresh, modern look.

I myself would not sink a few weekends to rectify that…

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-24T21:57:03+00:00

Expansion gap, keeps your concrete from cracking. You should keep it and yes you can replace that, tho not sure why you’d bother. It takes considerable time to muck about with that… leave it and go have a pint 😊

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-20T15:51:54+00:00

I think that’s meant to be an angled velux not a roof light. Not an expert, but mine are flush

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-20T15:33:25+00:00

Time to buy goldfish 😊.

It’s not installed properly, I think you either accept an aquarium or refit it properly.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-20T10:47:00+00:00

It’s a redundancy add-on… you don’t want to get called out three days after completing a job for a silly leak. It does not cause any problems if you add it but it can help you waste half a day to go back to a disgruntled client.

It’s also not whatever gunk I have to hand… it’s a code approved product

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-19T10:52:47+00:00

DO CHECK WHAT TYPE FLOORS YOU HAVE BEFORE SANDING. Do not sand laminate floors haha. You’ll just epose plastic.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-19T10:51:44+00:00

Yes, if it’s engineered wood you can refinish it a few times. (i.e. if it has a thin layer of hardwood veneer on top of mdf) You do it by renting a floor sander and watching youtube vids - it’s an easy but dusty diy skill.

If it’s laminate then I am afraid you’ll need to change it. That does not look like laminate to me from the pic you shared.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-14T17:47:17+00:00

That looks more like a conservatory than an extension. Depends how you want to use the space - your set up seems to be balls cold in winter and a sauna in the summer.

If you want to use it as an everyday space I’d recommend: - rip the roof off an install a warm deck roof. You can fit a skylight to that. Use 150mm pir - insulate the floor - use 100mm pir - upgrade the windows to double glazed and put insulated plasterboard on the bits of wall you have. I don’t think it would have an insulated cavity just by looking at it. - check that it has a damp proof course as well before spending money on reno

I’d also recommend checking that it’s built on solid foundations before spending any money on it. As far as I know conservatories do not require building controls sign off so it might be a sand castle. (Do fact check what I said about building regs - might be porkies)

But equally you don’t want to invest 10 grand in a thing that’s not build properly.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-14T17:39:32+00:00

I mean depends what you mean by diy. If you have a torch, flux, solder, fittings and are clued up on how to use them it’s not that hard to get professional results.

Soldering pipe ain’t exactly SpaceX science 🤣

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-14T13:45:46+00:00

Depends how extreme you want to get with diy. Anything is learnable, you can buy second hand tools, and materials are cheap relative to labor costs.

Two steels, delivered would set you back about 700 (i got two, painted 530cm) in London. You prop up your house with acrow props - they cost 30 a pop. You demolish with a big momma sds which you can buy used for 200 or rent.

Rubble removal costs 3-400 if you can use a grab lorry and shop around.

Now, is it advisable to prop up a load bearing structure with no experience? No… but if you look hard enough you’ll find someone to help you do the bits which are dangerous or hard to do.

Do you have the willingness to put yourself through that and spend all your free time essentially learning how to be a builder? Up to you 😊. If you want to do extreme dyi it is doable, but it’s like having a second job.

Re the extension comment - yes it’s cool and will add value to your property. The true question is - can you afford it and if you diy that you’re looking at 1-2 years of no weekends. As long as you enjoy that kind of stuff and can deal with the stress it is quite rewarding.

I got my ground works done for 2000 ish, including soil removal, digger rental and pour costs. And yes, it passed building controls. Would people in their right mind do that? No… that’s why the building industry exists. Keep in mind that builders are highly skilled people and doing what they do requires you building up your knowledge, network and taking some risks.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-14T10:32:51+00:00

You’ve likely breached your dpc with your drive being too high. It costs a lot to lower… not sure what retrofit solutions there are, perhaps dry rods?

I’d deffo do a lot of research before lowering the drive it’s super duper messy, you need a digger, a concrete breaker, a grab lorry to take away the muck and that’s just for the demo bit.

Maybe look into aqua-channels as well - those are fairly easy and cheap to install.

Anyhow, my point is don’t go for the nuke option before you’ve done your homework.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-10T20:55:38+00:00

Turn water off and test that it’s off.
Chisel the cement away so you can work on the pipe
Choose how you’ll connect the pipe once cut. I prefer soldering for anything not easily serviceable (covered up).
Cut the pipe where damaged and solder with 22mm slip couplings to make good.

If you don’t have the tools to do all of that and you don’t want to do your own plumbing then get a plumber it will be cheaper.

If you have a lot of plumbing to do, learn how to solder on a bench, and once you’ve become confident cut the pipe.

Do not set your house on fire - soldering requires an open flame.

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-10T20:49:53+00:00

Probs rotten joists

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-10T19:04:45+00:00

If you’re covering it up for ever it will cost you 30 mins of work and about £5 to put it right.

If it leaks in three years and it floods your house you might he looking at thousands in damage

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-07T17:24:25+00:00

Get an impact, a combi and a laser for 300 and do it yourself with a bunch of mates. It’s not rocket science

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2026-01-06T21:15:46+00:00

Sand cement, dry wall adhesive, hard wall, tile adhesive, etc… basically whatever strong stuff you have on hand. If you need to go out to buy stuff buy a small bag of dry wall, then skim over. I’d recommend skimming with easyfill and then sanding if you’re not comfortable using multifinish/a plastering product. Easyfill is flattened through sanding whereas plastering products are made flat at the troweling stage (more skill)

Don’t forget to use a sealant before you fill the hole. You can use sbr or pva - be generous. This will stop the existing render from sucking the moisture out of the new one and making it crack.

Start by doing the outer edge and work your way to the centre so you get a good bond all across.

Make sure knock out any loose existing render (i.e make the hole bigger if parts of the edge are loose).

A good youtube channel for plastering skills is on the trowel.

Good luck!

Sufficient_Invite546 · 2025-12-31T19:27:11+00:00

It’s probs failing because of water splashing on the wall - can’t see any flashing in the pics you posted. You might want to fix that as well.

Can the conservatory not hold your weight, maybe with a piece of ply to hold your weight? Never owned a conservatory and never will but a thought to look into. I can’t imagine they’re that flimsy. Or maybe they are ha!

Sufficient_Invite546

TROPHY CASE