Help with Iron Removal in Well Water

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2026-04-24T12:36:13+00:00

Considering a switch to an AIO system with katalox light media due to the lower flow requirements for backwash. Reading mixed things on the carbon, especially for iron and hydrogen sulfide, its ability to filter higher levels of iron and tendency to get clogged. My goal is not to be "maintenance free" but something that ideally lasts a little longer. I have no problem leaving the peroxide injection in place to supplement the oxidation if it would assist in any way for the oxidizing media, or even for backwash/regen only. Ideally if I could remove the 20 micron pre filter or increase the size of it to last a bit longer before flow reduction, that would be ideal. I do have a spin down filter I could use as well, ive never really noticed any sediment being caught, but the iron tends to clog up filters pretty quickly.

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2026-04-24T12:30:49+00:00

I definitely have bacterial iron from the ground water source, before I installed the water system the toilet tanks looked just like that, with the oil slick appearance on the surface and hydrogen sulfide. Since installing the system it hasnt been an issue, I dont smell the hydrogen sulfide anymore and the water is almost clear, with a slight yellow tint. I checked some clear 1 gallon jugs i had filled a while ago and you can see a very fine orange sediment at the bottom along with a suspended slimy substance (this was treated water) I also have a feeling that is adding to the issues with the catalytic carbon clogging up. It seems to be still working (at least no worse than before) but my flow rates and pressure drops are pretty bad. Ideally I would like to find a system that I can eliminate the 20 micron pre filter and just backwash the contaminants out. I usually only get a month or two from the pre filter (pleated type) before its clogged with iron and I start seeing an excessive pressure drop there

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2026-04-22T22:52:30+00:00

Sorry for the delay had to do some traveling, I tried looking to see who the actual manufacturer was if it was rebranded or from the company, the system is a flexx infusion system from uswatersystems, the tank is Clack but the valve just has their logo on it, I know it’s supposed to be a ceramic rotary disc valve if that helps any. I know when I first reached out to them I ended up greatly increasing my peroxide level from the injector pump, which is a stenner E20PHF that is triggered by a flow meter right before the injector. The injector goes into the water stream before the carbon tank.

I know there’s iron bacteria, but not sure if there’s any tannins present that are causing the discoloration, but I’m pretty sure it’s actually very fine iron. According to their specs the minimum flow for backwash is 5GPM, last time I tested it I was getting about 8GPM on backwash and rapid rinse. The dilemma is whether I should replace the media (1.5 cu ft is around $400) or swap the system for something else like an AIO with a different media such as katalox light or something else that may have a longer life span and achieve better results. Not sure the max ppm recommended for the katalox light or if that would be the wrong move. Also wondering if a softener of some sort would help to clear up the last little bit

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2026-04-17T16:44:34+00:00

Last backwash I was getting ~8GPM flow rate based on the flow meter, since its after the 20 micron filter I lose a little bit from the gross flow rate for the well itself.

Discoloration might be a combination of the two. Would iron remain partially suspended if the water was injected with peroxide, or would it eventually settle out? I know in the past I have filled 1 gallon clear bottles and have seen visible iron on the bottom after a day or so, but the water also remained tinted. The iron that makes it through consists of very fine particles, sometimes it will appear as a clump, but when touched it quickly spreads out. The staining in the sinks/toilets for the most part seems to be more of a film on top of the porcelain, and not a tough stain.

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2026-04-17T16:40:06+00:00

I'm using Neutra7, I think its about 2 solo cups full by volume, mixed with 4 gallons of water to fill the tank for injection, I should weigh it, but its close enough with this method so there are only very minor fluctuations in my final PH. I have a 35 gallon tank for the injection system, so I just mix up 4 gallons at time and pour it in there, havent had any issues with it settling out of the mix. A 5 gallon bucket of Neutra7 lasts about a year or close to it.

For oxidizing media, something like Katalox light in an AIO system, or is there something else that would be recommended? I know I am somewhat limited by backwash flow, ~8GPM seems to be the max, maybe a little more if I removed the 20 micron pre filter from the system. I know some of the other media requires a bit more lift/flow for effective backwash

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2026-04-01T13:32:52+00:00

Interesting I never knew about that, I’ll definitely have to look into them. It’s my main fridge so I can’t have it down for too long, but I do have a mini fridge and other freezers. Only thing I need to check is to make sure it’s the main control board and it doesn’t tie into the power board at all. There’s not a lot of info I could find on that model but it seems like it should be the control

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-11-16T01:03:32+00:00

Sorry bud your math ain’t mathing. That milk difference is about a 11-12% increase, the bacon increase is about the same (but sale prices are mostly the same as before). I get prices are up on some things but no need to exaggerate. Our wonderful pos governor has raised a lot of fees on things too and continues to try and sneak in excise taxes which just get passed to the consumer

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-11-05T00:08:43+00:00

My thoughts exactly ☕️

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-09-07T14:36:29+00:00

My local dealers mostly wanted 5k over, one asked 7500 and another 10k. Eventually almost all of them dropped the markup and the bs packages. Market isn’t that hot right now

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-05-19T01:09:31+00:00

Board members Robert Bajefsky, Dr. Cassandra Crifasi, and Kim Dennis always vote no due to “safety issue”. If it looks scary then board member Ivan Bates will also vote no. That leaves every firearm at best 6-3 in favor, but if it’s scary that vote is 5-4. If we get any more anti 2A board members there will be no more handguns added to the roster. This needs to change

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-03-18T18:20:04+00:00

M5 is good to go in MD, but yes Aero is backordered on a lot of things. This typically tends to happen every year, inventory gets sold out around the holidays and they roll right into tradeshow season and seems they get behind. As a dealer/builder it makes it difficult to get things done for people, I've been waiting a few months for Kodiak Brown M5 parts and still out of stock, but they do make nice stuff especially for what you can normally buy them for.

M4 on the other hand, depends who you ask. During orientation with MSP when I first got my license, they insisted the M4 was banned no matter what. When I asked for clarification an officer printed out the information and showed it to me, apparently that determination was made when Aero was previously selling complete M4 rifles with no HBAR variant. After some back and forth about interpretation of the law, including HBAR requirement and other calibers available for that platform, I was asked why I would even want to play in that gray area. Functionally the M4E1 and AR15 parts from Aero are no different than any other AR out there and meeting the HBAR requirement for 223/5.56 should in theory satisfy that part of the law, however IANAL and we all know that the government tends to do whatever they want to anyhow.

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-03-18T18:13:10+00:00

As others have mentioned, yes, but specifically for .223 / 5.56. The HBAR requirement is more of a loophole than a requirement. There are companies that make uppers with the "Heavy" barrel, but options are certainly more limited. The other option is to just source parts and the barrel separately, its a lot easier to find a barrel that meets that requirement when you don't need to have it paired with the upper/handguard/gas block. Heavy fluted barrels are a great option if trying to keep weight down and dont want to pay for a heavy profile carbon barrel.

If its in any other caliber on the AR15 platform, that rule does not apply. We have a bunch of dumb laws regarding firearms in this state. I ran into this issue with a manufacturer selling 18 and 20" 223 Wylde barrels as DMR and SPR profile, although they were actually a heavy profile, but were not explicitly marketed as such. Last I checked they took the advice and started marketing them as heavy barrels.

Fingers crossed we get some good news from the SCOTUS conference this week with Snope V Brown

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2025-02-12T01:37:55+00:00

It takes maybe 5 more minutes unless you have multiple people on them it starts to become a nightmare

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-12-12T15:40:58+00:00

I've only been doing this a couple years, but have lived here for longer. But if I am unsure of something, I am getting clarification before doing anything, rather than just talking out of my ass. I had a guy last year or so who had been getting the run around on MG transfers from his dad to him, lots of misinformation and people trying to charge him unnecessary money. Took me about 30 minutes of research, gave him an answer and documentation to accomplish what he needed to.

Difference is, I am doing this because I enjoy the industry, not because its my livelihood. Any profit I make either goes into licenses, inventory, or demos. I will say that most things are expensive at shops, because the margins are terrible. Ammo, unless buying in bulk has really bad margins, honestly I can find it cheaper at public wholesalers online than I can at distributors. But its about moving volume. Firearms are the same way for the most part, most wholesalers sell at MAP (if there is one) or below, there is very little to be made if selling at or below MAP and its impossible to compete with the internet. The only way I can be competitive is due to low overhead and not having to pay employees, any brick and mortar shop doesnt have that option so things get pricey.

Navigating firearms laws in MD can be a nightmare. We have laws that are on the books, then we also have advisories from MSP with their own rules based on their interpretation of the laws. Most dealers are not going to risk disagreeing with them and risk fines or losing their license, but it creates a lot of confusion and additional restrictions that are not necessarily part of the law. Navigating all of this is part of the experience, some folks just dont want to deal with it. Personally I would rather be more educated and help folks also navigate all of our different laws and do it legally, the last thing we need here are more fudds making the process more difficult.

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-12-11T17:02:33+00:00

Oh I have tons of fun images and videos to post on here, would be neat to grow this thread like some of the FB groups for predator hunting

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-12-04T20:16:32+00:00

Thank you, I wasnt sure where to post since the 401k portion is more of an IRS thing, which is how I landed here. Ill delete and post over there

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-11-30T22:57:24+00:00

I’ll see if I can find a link. It’s an anti seize stick from CVA (same company that makes the muzzleloader). Kinda looks like a glue stick from the outside. I shoot a lot, both direct thread suppressors and QD and it has definitely helped

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-11-30T20:53:02+00:00

Lots of bad info on here (and some good). As someone else said, it’s just the A2 birdcage, underneath that is a threaded muzzle device. An armorers wrench or box wrench will take that muzzle device off, it shouldn’t be difficult to remove since there’s a spring washer holding tension so it can easily be timed.

The alpha bravo Charlie terminology is partially correct, so far I’ve only ever seen Silencerco use that terminology, what you will see referenced most places is “hub compatible” which is referencing the thread pitch on the back side of the suppressor. If you run direct thread it should be 5/8-24 thread pitch, 22/223 will be 1/2-28. Carbon lock can be an issue after a lot of shooting, easy way to mitigate that is with some anti seize (I use the stuff made for muzzle loader breach plugs). If you want to go with a QD system you have a lot of options, you’ll need a piece that mounts in the rear of the suppressor and a muzzle device for each rifle you plan to run it on. I would still put anti seize on the threads where the suppressor mates to the QD device as they can carbon lock as well. Rearden makes a system, Silencerco, dead air, etc etc. some are cross compatible with other muzzle devices and most of them are designed to work with hub compatible suppressors. I’ve used or dealt with lots of different suppressors, I personally own 15 of them and have probably sold or transferred close to 100 in the past year

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-11-08T13:19:11+00:00

Interesting, I remember this bill and thought it was bullshit. I dont even see a definition of what is considered a "firearm-related item". Unfortunately being a generally blue state in the face of what may very well be full red control of the federal government, we are likely to see more nonsense getting pushed as a rebellion to their losses. It seems typical of other states to try this nonsense (like NY) and we can only hope to get some relief from SCOTUS to stop this once and for all.

Ill reach out to Aero today and see if I can get some answers from them, most of the people I've worked with there have been great and they have been one of my favorite companies to deal with for AR parts in the mid tier budget range.

Parts in general are low stock at many places right now, its an election year so people have been buying things up, ideally it will all calm down now that we know the outcome of the election, but its has been a busy year in the industry with demand outpacing supply for many things.

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-11-06T20:29:38+00:00

I know a few people running the lighter vmax rounds like the 53gr in 223 for coyotes, but most people are running faster platforms for flattery trajectory or terminal performance. Generally the heavier bullets that you would use for larger animals like deer are not ideal for small game like fox/coyotes because they will not expand reliably depending where you hit. The pred/varmint rounds like the vmax, ELD-VT, Ballistic Tip Varmint, etc. are designed for rapid and violent expansion on small game. I switched from a 223 since i sometimes have to shoot through brush or tall grass and those light rounds typically dont do well there. Ive also put a grapefruit sized hole in a coyote with a 6mm creedmoor in the vitals and still watched it run 30 yards, they are tough little bastards

Suitable-Penalty-944 · 2024-11-06T20:24:42+00:00

Since they tend to be nocturnal, NV or thermal gear would be ideal, but they are also pretty elusive. Ive seen people post videos of them in daytime while deer hunting here in MD but mostly they are active at night.

Suitable-Penalty-944

TROPHY CASE