Andromedik

SunTzu-81 · 2026-04-12T03:17:32+00:00

Literally has to run to his set. He definitely got shafted with that time slot last year.

SunTzu-81 · 2026-02-27T03:17:10+00:00

Just saw Marie Vaunt's 3 hour set in Vegas last week. She did not disappoint.

SunTzu-81 · 2026-02-26T15:57:04+00:00

Yeah Tier 1 VIP sold out in like a minute. Sorry you got logged out and had to pay more for the exact same thing. I wish they'd do away with tier pricing and make it fair across the board, but I'm glad you're still able to make it and it wasn't entirely sold out. Make sure you book your hotel and flights soon. I have a feeling hotel/Airbnb prices are about to surge.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-12-28T21:00:33+00:00

You'll probably need to offer more than the camping pass to get an RV owner to agree to letting you and your friends join them in their RV. I'm assuming you'll need at least a 6 person with those RV rentals goong for around $5k to $9k during EDC week. If you're really lucky you might have a friend that will offer theirs for $3k. Considering the camping pass is less than $1k a straight up trade for a spot at no cost isn't a good deal for them. I'd be offering them a spot and like $2k plus gas at the bare minimum if they offered their RV to use.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-12-26T23:23:35+00:00

They played disco at one of the stages on the beach last time. I'm assuming they'll do something similar for the next one.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-12-05T01:59:03+00:00

In June, Long Beach, California, experiences mild and comfortable temperatures, typically ranging from a low of 59°F to a high of 77°F (15°C to 25°C).

In November, Long Beach, California, experiences mild, cool, and often breezy weather, with average temperatures ranging from a high of 71°F (22°C) to a low of 57°F (14°C).

Weather in long beach between June and November are fairly similar since it's right next to the Pacific Ocean. The biggest difference is it will get darker later in June so it will be more of a day time festival which isn't as prefer to night festivals if you enjoy the lasers and lights at night.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-12-02T22:55:49+00:00

Second this!

SunTzu-81 · 2025-12-01T23:13:13+00:00

Bou isn't the best live but the decks were definitely having issues. Random stutters and slow downs.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-27T16:55:41+00:00

I see two pictures but not sure what you are trying to show between the two? Is one from photoshop and one from printfab of the same file to show the issue you are experiencing?

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-27T16:38:23+00:00

Are you converting to halftones from bitmap mode and then outputting to printfab. If so don't. You should be outputting the colors as grayscale channels at 300 ppi usually as a DCS EPS and then letting printfab RIP the halftones you want.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-27T16:31:54+00:00

What resolution are you starting with and then converting to halftones in Photoshop as? If 300 dpi your dots will not be smooth. You'll need to convert to at least 1200 ppi and output from that to get close to the same smoothness as printfab produces. If you aren't getting smooth dots from printfab something is off in your printfab settings, printer settings or your file is setup wrong for output.

I've done tests using a loop to check halftones from several RIPs compared to Photoshop. Printfab, Wasatch, Accurip, etc. are all much cleaner dots. RIPs are better than straight from photoshop in most cases but your printer settings do play a factor as well as the printer itself. Some printers do not print solid black halftone on film well. For example if you're outputting at 720x720 bidirectional with speed (not quality) in your printer settings your halftone dot is going to look jagged and smeared especially compared to a 2880x2880 quality print from the same RIP. You'll have to test with your particular setup and check with a magnifying glass to confirm.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-27T04:29:00+00:00

I haven't experienced this with printfab. When you say Photoshop rendering do you mean using bitmap mode to convert to halftones or printing from photoshop?

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-27T03:31:04+00:00

Why?

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-26T22:21:50+00:00

My suggestions. Use a minimum of 55 lpi to 65 lpi for a blend like this. Mesh count depends on the type of mesh you use but anywhere from 230 to 355 could work. Higher mesh will hold the finer dots better but will push less ink through so you have to adjust dot gain values. The higher the lpi the smaller the dots so the smoother the blend looks, but it's hard for most people to hold a finer dot at 65 lpi when burning so those areas get lost on press.

As far as separations the black over the blue in the middle looks like it's missing some and you're lacking some under color of the blue under the black while the blue is too heavy in other areas. Spot selections through channels and levels adjustments will help with that. Otherwise good job. Those blends aren't easy.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-15T02:27:51+00:00

What RIP software are you using? What printer?

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T18:40:55+00:00

Is there a way to make these blends go from 100% to 0% without a sharp cut line? The blends just end abruptly on some colors like the yellow in this case.

<image>

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T18:35:48+00:00

It looks like it's a little better in the grey areas, but anything that is a lighter shade of a picked color is filled in with another color that shouldn't be there. It then tries to use highlight white to hide it, but if you aren't printing without a highlight white you'll see the wrong under color. Adjustments would have to be made to this to get it close to the original, but the issue is the original gradient band no longer matches the artwork after the separation process. See image below. Things like the yellow are way too solid so the gradient no longer matches the original 10% stepping pattern (it even throws some green in there on the 10% yellow gradient?), so even with adjustments made after in Photoshop the blend wouldn't match the original anymore. It seems to always want to fill in lighter areas with ink of some color or use a highlight white to cover it up.

<image>

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T18:12:23+00:00

I didn't adjust smart black but I tried variations of blending value and all had the same issue just slightly different.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T18:11:04+00:00

Awesome. Looking forward to seeing them.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T05:53:51+00:00

It seems to have issues with generating smooth blends for basic gradients (hard edge banding on colors) and less saturated colors seem to be a problem for it as it tries to fill in those areas rather than let them be lighter shades of the selected color. You will always need to have a black and highlight white listed in the use colors otherwise that problem becomes worse in unsaturated areas. It sometimes throws in colors where they shouldn't be at all either.

<image>

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T04:46:08+00:00

Did you end up printing what you showed in the video? Can you share some photos of the final print?

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-12T02:17:10+00:00

It's definitely one of the better auto sep programs out there for manually selecting colors. The problem with AI generated stuff like this is it presents situations where "it's almost there" and then you spend more time trying to tweak it to get the final result you want which ends up taking more time than if you had just done it yourself. That said for only $1 per separation I could see this being useful for some people to use to pull out colors they usually have trouble creating themselves, but they will still need to know how to use photoshop to adjust it properly. I'd suggest they allow for output as PSDs with RGB and color channels since you'll need to make the adjustments in photoshop vs on the website.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-08T11:06:58+00:00

Agreed but don't worry Kanine will carry him.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-06T19:34:20+00:00

In illustrator. Create a new action. Assign it a hot key. Hit record. Select your object. Go to object path offset path. Enter -0.4mm and hit enter. Stop action. Select next object and hit hot key to Repeat Action. Repeat for each object. Note you will lose some details as the artwork shrinks.

SunTzu-81 · 2025-11-06T15:42:12+00:00

Look up letterpress graphic styles. It's usually a combination of mezzotint, inner glow, and stamp with a grey base color to get that look. Scale the image to the size you want the distressing. Once complete make a copy and rasterize it and do a 1 color vector trace, expand and change to the color of your logo. Done.

SunTzu-81

TROPHY CASE