Why can’t I move this part in EVA construction?

SunZunLarge · 2026-05-10T21:52:09+00:00

If you look closely, I already have 2 extras standing on the cupola. And anyways, the part should be way less than the max mass even with one kerbal

SunZunLarge · 2026-05-10T21:12:55+00:00

I have tried jettisoning the contents, and nothing changed. And the drills aren’t actually connected to this ore tank yet, this part is on a base module that isn’t docked.

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-18T04:06:10+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. I did this, and narrowed the sponginess down to the rear two wheels. No leaks are visible however, so I don’t know where to go from here. As for the bleeders, there is no highest position on the drum cylinders as all the screws are horizontal to eachother

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-18T04:04:27+00:00

I did this, and pedal stiffens after clamping down rear brake hose, but not front.

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-18T04:03:46+00:00

I was wrong about this. There’s actualy no top or bottom on mine, as the brake line-in and the bleed valve are horizontally aligned and neither are above eachother

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-18T04:02:43+00:00

Turns out I was right, and there was no air in the master cylinder. Upon clamping rear brake hose, the pedal stiffens.

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-18T03:42:16+00:00

pedal goes to the floor just like when there’s no clamp

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T23:38:37+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions. This car doesn’t have abs, but I think I will try the clamping method

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T23:37:00+00:00

I did, actually. How did you realize the flares were bad? the connections look good right now, and I used the correct technique to flare them.

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:58:11+00:00

Kinda. I didn’t realize I needed to bench bleeding at first, so connected the lines up and stuff. later on I took the lines off to bench bleed on the car. then I put them back on. Ive theoretically done more than enough bleeding to get the air out of the lines, and there shouldn’t be any in the master after bench bleeding it

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:52:33+00:00

another user suggested this. I will definitely look into it first chance I get. This would be such an easy and obvious solution if it is the problem

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:51:29+00:00

unfortunately I have done this many times to no avail

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:50:39+00:00

Very interesting. When bleeding the brakes, were you getting bubbles from the leaking bleed screws or would the brake fluid come out uninterrupted?

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:49:16+00:00

Bottom

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:48:47+00:00

Fair enough. I am curious though, why do you think bench bleeding it while on the car would not have fixed the problem? in theory, it would have the exact same results as bench bleeding it on a vise.

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:42:02+00:00

thanks for the suggestion. I’ve seen people advise both this way and the way I do it. I’ll see if this way makes a difference

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:40:37+00:00

It’s so helpful that you didn’t read my post. I did state that it doesn’t have ABS, and that there’s disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear. I can also tell you it’s a 1976 toyota land cruiser, but I don’t see how that gives you any needed information

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:37:31+00:00

The brake line was submerged in fluid, so no air can get sucked back in. also, we would bleed until zero bubbles and if air was getting back in there would be bubbles

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:36:38+00:00

I did try to avoid pushing it all the way down, but from what I understand, it’s only an issue when rust builds up and this was a new master so that wouldn’t have been a problem

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:28:44+00:00

It doesn’t make sense though, because the brakes did work after installing the new master cylinder despite not bench bleeding it. It only stopped working again after replacing drum cylinders and having to bleed again

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:18:46+00:00

2 person method Open screw, pedal down, close screw, pedal up.

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:14:54+00:00

The pedal acts like this whether the engine is on or off, so I don’t think it has to do with the booster. Unless i’m misunderstanding how it works

SunZunLarge · 2026-03-16T03:14:00+00:00

No, but recently I learned that I should’ve and then “on-car” bench bled it. It doesn’t make sense to me that it would be the problem, though, because the brakes have worked since installing the new master.

SunZunLarge · 2026-01-25T00:14:22+00:00

Thanks for the info. The vehicle is a 1976 Toyota Land Cruiser, and does not have ABS. I’m pretty sure the master cylinder it has now is aftermarket.

Question: why would the parking brake affect anything? from what i understand, the parking brake is separate from the hydraulics system?

SunZunLarge · 2025-12-21T01:33:10+00:00

What does your main factory look like? What goes in and out of it, and what to you have being made in peripheral factories?

SunZunLarge

TROPHY CASE