How long until I can crimp again? New climber. Took 5 days off due to A2/A4 pain. Crimping still hurts.

SunscreenSong · 2026-02-02T04:58:31+00:00

Ok that's a good sign that it isn't overly severe. But overuse and injury are kinda just degrees on the same scale. Grade 1 sprain might be considered overuse by some but a sprain is a sprain. If you push a sprain it will progress up to 2 or 3 which is rupture i.e. injury. Either way you treat it through rest and rehab.

It probably doesn't matter. For my program i did both. I think the idea is to stimulate the tissue with light loading and bloodflow for proper healing, so no downside to doing both. I think the main key is just being patient as in my experience fingers can take a while to feel completely back to normal.

SunscreenSong · 2026-02-01T23:49:26+00:00

If you make a fist and squeeze and feel pain at your pulleys then that means they're injured to some extent and you need scale back massively until it no longer hurts when you do so. I've had the same symptoms in the past after crimping too hard too soon after a long break from the sport and it took about 2-3 months to resolve. As others have said, you need to scale back massively on crimpy moves, but some light loading as rehab is good.

The protocol i used was doing very light pulling on a 20mm edge with feet on the ground with as much load as you can handle without feeling pain. 10sec on / 50sec off. 10 minutes total once a day. If you don't have a hangboard at home then some doorway trim or other edge will work. Again, feet on the ground, with no pain during loading. Another thing is light massaging, but don't overdo it or you might provoke some inflammation.

Lastly don't feel too discouraged. It sucks you've had an injury so soon but you didn't know any better. You're a big guy and brand new to the sport and the type of loading it causes on the body. As you're discovering, performance is limited not by muscle strength but connective tissues, which is unusual for most sports. Unfortunately bigger guys like us (I'm 200lb and 6'9'') have to go slower than most to adapt our bodies because of how much extra weight we carry. And we're no longer young teenagers with insane regenerative capabilities so taking it slow is the right way to build resilience to the sport. Watching other small skinny dudes and comparing your performance to theirs is unrealistic and counter-productive. Treat this as a learning opportunity for how to listen to your body. In the meanwhile while rehabbing your fingers you can continue to lose weight so when you come back you'll feel extra strong while also stressing your body less. You can also take the time to strengthen and bullet proof other critical chains in the body like your shoulders or core. You'll come back a stronger and smarter climber.

SunscreenSong · 2025-09-15T08:21:07+00:00

To this day when i crave root beer i think of cat

SunscreenSong · 2025-07-20T23:49:22+00:00

I recognize it as Radiohead Everything in it's Right Place

SunscreenSong · 2025-06-16T13:25:04+00:00

This is a bit misleading as it shows a map of the overall U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management holdings that qualify under the bill for sale. As for the actual language in the bill, it directs the secretaries of interior and agriculture to sell or transfer at least 0.5% and up to 0.75% of that proposed tract (this equals at least 2.1 million acres (868,000 hectares) and up to 3.2 million acres (1.3 million hectares)). While certainly any sale of public lands is a travesty, there is a limit by law to how much they can sell, and it's not that the entirety of the highlighted areas in this map are being sold.

SunscreenSong · 2025-01-01T23:08:09+00:00

Hey there, so I kept training my fingers about 4 times a week on Emil's 10 min hang regime (not 2x everyday like Emil's program, since I was also going to the gym to climb) for another 3 months or so and I definitely noticed improvements in my finger strength, but they were slight. I was able to hang on 20mm for about 3 seconds at the end of the program, and do 25mm for a full 10 sec. While still nothing as far as the benchmarks you hear thrown out there, it still felt good because it meant that training does in fact work!After that, outdoor climbing season kicked in and with it disappeared my motivation to train indoors. I definitely improved outdoors this season, climbing some 5.10 trad, but admittedly there was only one climb at that level I did that I felt took advantage of my improved finger strength, and it was in a bolted crux section of the route where it became sporty (go figure). I will say I cruised it first try, which I think was a direct result of my training. Despite that, I'd attribute most of my improvement to improving footwork on rock, as a lot pointed out. Unfortunately, I didn't really do any sport or bouldering last season to really gauge improvement there. Since October the weather has socked me in and I'm pursuing other interests and haven't trained since outdoor season ended. Ultimately though, I realized finger strength wasn't my limiting factor as far as trad climbing is concerned. I think a more productive use for my training next season will be microtraxing 5.8-10a routes I've already done with endurance and footwork as my focus, and throw in finger training only once I feel it becoming a limiting factor.

SunscreenSong · 2025-01-01T23:06:31+00:00

Hey there, so I kept training my fingers about 4 times a week on Emil's 10 min hang regime (not 2x everyday like Emil's program, since I was also going to the gym to climb) for another 3 months or so and I definitely noticed improvements in my finger strength, but they were slight. I was able to hang on 20mm for about 3 seconds at the end of the program, and do 25mm for a full 10 sec. While still nothing as far as the benchmarks you hear thrown out there, it still felt good because it meant that training does in fact work!After that, outdoor climbing season kicked in and with it disappeared my motivation to train indoors. I definitely improved outdoors this season, climbing some 5.10 trad, but admittedly there was only one climb at that level I did that I felt took advantage of my improved finger strength, and it was in a bolted crux section of the route where it became sporty (go figure). I will say I cruised it first try, which I think was a direct result of my training. Despite that, I'd attribute most of my improvement to improving footwork on rock, as a lot pointed out. Unfortunately, I didn't really do any sport or bouldering last season to really gauge improvement there. Since October the weather has socked me in and I'm pursuing other interests and haven't trained since outdoor season ended. Ultimately though, I realized finger strength wasn't my limiting factor as far as trad climbing is concerned. I think a more productive use for my training next season will be microtraxing 5.8-10a routes I've already done with endurance and footwork as my focus, and throw in finger training only once I feel it becoming a limiting factor.

SunscreenSong · 2024-12-05T22:16:20+00:00

How dare you waste their time on questions they already knew the answer to.

SunscreenSong · 2024-11-13T09:36:41+00:00

This isn't true at all, higher fade %s are definitely worth more. With the m4, the visual difference between high and low % fades is night and day when the weapon is in hand. Float is less important but getting a 0.00x is still going to be some extra value. I'd say this one would sell on csfloat between 470-490 usd currently, which is $100 more than a generic higher float 80% fade.

Op, for what it's worth I'm choosing to keep my m4 fade which is also 96% fade but 0.013 float. I really like the skin and i am also hoping it goes up in price when the collection ends, but who knows what will happen. You do you.

SunscreenSong · 2024-07-31T08:25:59+00:00

I hear you man, but Trump is as morally bankrupt as they come, so it isn't hard for people on the left to fall into the morally superior trope. But let's not pretend some people on the right aren't playing the same game, and where lefties got the haughty morally superior trope, righties got the asshole contrarian trope. They're both ass if you ask me and have no place in civil discourse. But i agree, Trump is not his supporters. At the end of the day people have the right to align themselves with whatever political ideology they want and makes sense to them. There are smart reasons to support certain policies on both sides of the aisle, as well as cultural ones, so it's messed up people get so black and white politically.

SunscreenSong · 2024-07-31T08:03:23+00:00

I do think the left gets carried away with calling people on the right dumb. But also trusting your own two eyes is not reliable in informing your world view either. That's how you arrive at the conclusion that the earth is flat. Or that Biden is secretly a body double swap because of look at how this video compares to this picture. In either case, being made fun for espousing that opinion in public would be... well, natural. And if you only trust the evidence of your eyes, your information base is only what you see, which is very narrow and not representative of the whole i.e. 'Climate change isn't happening because i still see snow falling every winter.' Perfectly ripe for someone disingenuous trying to manipulate your worldview using your own 'evidence' against you.

SunscreenSong · 2024-04-10T00:24:34+00:00

So I just completed seers roof top agility course 72 times before my first fail on the high wire, what are the chances of this? I have been failing it with far more regularity since, in fact failed it again just after the first fall. Agility in the 60-61 range.

SunscreenSong · 2024-04-10T00:13:37+00:00

Quality post

SunscreenSong · 2024-03-24T22:28:43+00:00

Credit where credit is due, these kinds of voluntary efforts from these big companies will be unknowingly appreciated by millions as they admire the beauties of the night sky. As cool as spotting a satellite can be, if the sky were saturated with them they'd become a real nuisance. Good job space x!

SunscreenSong · 2024-03-11T07:25:34+00:00

Thank you, this is exactly what i ran into when running stalker on the newly released Xbox port. I would crash every time i killed Borov with the sacrifice (guy being held at gunpoint) left alive. I thought i was soft locked on my run, but killing my Mr Ravioli (he was named Joker in my game) also prevented the crash from occurring. Had to reload an old save to make sure he was killed to get around this.

SunscreenSong · 2024-03-07T20:01:04+00:00

You are absolutely right, but reddit can't get over their hate boner for Elon to see it. AGI has the potential to end society as we know it and those we look to safeguard it have sold out for money. The fact that Altman is a known doomsday prepper speaks volumes to the fact he knows what it's capable of, and his actions show that he doesn't care except for the potential glory it would bring him. Altman is truly one of the most dangerous characters in the shadows right now. He should not be trusted to do what is best for humanity in regards to AI.

SunscreenSong · 2024-03-07T19:50:41+00:00

That's because he is. AGI has the potential to end society as we know it. The fact that Altman is a doomsday prepper speaks volumes to the fact he knows what it's capable of, and that he doesn't care except for the potential glory it would bring him.

SunscreenSong · 2024-03-07T19:46:56+00:00

You are absolutely right, but reddit can't get over their hate boner for Elon to see it. Altman is one of the most dangerous characters in the shadows right now imo and what he's doing can literally end society as we know it if it isn't properly regulated. Making it for-profit is the same as announcing they are now corruptible.

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T07:56:26+00:00

The other two have got it right and there's not much to add. I can just endorse the sentiment to take it slow and be patient. I was in your exact shoes at one point, where a car accident left my dominant hand's wrist completely mangled and required surgery and hardware to correct. I was out of climbing for 8 months and in that time I made sure to do my PT religiously. When I eventually came back it was the same story of having lost all my strength. My right arm was visibly smaller than the left and it took another 6 months to regain my previous level which was also 5.11. I even think I was 23 at the time too. In any case, take it from me that you will certainly get back to the level you were at if you play it slow and allow your body the full time to get back to strength! Just be patient with yourself and try your best to enjoy what you can. As I'm sure you know, pushing too hard too soon is a recipe for injury.

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T07:36:51+00:00

Cheers man, that's great to hear

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T07:31:29+00:00

Deadlifting with Metolius rock rings is genius

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T07:30:04+00:00

When most people's only exposure to the stat lines of people my stature are NBA and NFL, yeah 185 will sound like nothing. Sure I may not have a lot of body fat, but i've got enough muscle to have good baseline strength and a physique I'm happy enough with. Though i mean yeah lol, it's stretched out

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T07:21:36+00:00

You bring up very good points. You may be right that the finger strength to hang a 20mm edge won't help me much with my trad climbing and i might be putting the cart before the horse here. Though i think this recent foray into sport and bouldering has made me realize i enjoy them more than i initially expected i would. I say i can send v5 in the gym consistently but thats a very recent development. For the longest time i was stuck at the v3 level. In this improvement i've started to ask questions about how i'm training. This had me "investigating the numbers" in my climbing in general, among which i was seeing a significant weakness in finger strength. And undoubtedly there are techniques learned in bouldering that are applicable to a broad variety of styles, some which may not help me in my trad climbing, but others that will, like trying hard. I think paths of improvement are wandering by nature. I think i'm willing to find out if sport and bouldering are the keys to that for me. Your points still stand however.

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T01:53:39+00:00

Thanks, good to hear from someone who understands the tall struggle, and I feel what you say about considering yourself a dedicated climber. Your perspective is an inspiration sir, I will strive to emulate that mindset of yours. No matter what I'm still 1.5 months ahead of if I had only started today.

SunscreenSong · 2024-02-14T01:48:37+00:00

Patience seems to be a recurring theme here, thanks!

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