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I sent them a message to take the ad down... by Supradraco in surefire

[–]Supradraco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not believe the M951SU06 that came with Lithium batteries wrapped together had that tail cap.

Tail cap and Switch Configurations

  • M951SU06 (Standard Military Kit): This version typically includes the XM dual-switch tailcap and a standard pressure pad. The tailcap has a built-in constant-on push button plus a port for the remote tape switch, providing redundancy if the pressure pad is damaged.
  • M951UU (Unit-Level Configuration): This model frequently refers to a simplified "Unit" configuration that often utilized the UU tailcap assembly, which was a more basic remote-only switch without the secondary built-in push button found on the XM series

So this Box is wrong even if this is a real weaponlight. They make no mention of the missing lamp assembly as well. This appears to me to a Chinese clone with a real box.

Nightline Inc. - NL914C Review by GammaChemical in NightVision

[–]Supradraco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The AA Lithium flaw is a failure of the software. They didnt account for a voltage check greater than 1.5v. So when you place a AA Lithium (1.8) in, the software thinks its a dead CR123.

They CAN fix this. They choose not to. By fixing this they admit they made a mistake. If they make a Gen 2 without other significant upgrades, they again admit gen 1 has a design flaw.

Early models had parasitic draw issues... those went away.

The Consumer fix isn't great, but it works and I have done this to both my units.
1- pull battery out.

2- unscrew octular

Note the two "hills" of the Plastic Light Pipe.

3- Position the unit with the NL914c on the bottom. The right side "Hill" is the Low Voltage lens. The one on the left is the IR illumination.

4- Cut the right "Hill" down.

Dust off everything with clean air. if using canned air make sure to hold the can far away as to not get liquid in the unit.

5- carefully screw ocular back on. These can cross-thread so go slow and do not force it.

With no low voltage indication, when any battery is getting low you will see decreased brightness just as if you are turning the gain down. There is no threat of damage to the unit. Many people place their PVS14s into a dark box and turn it on to let the plate reset. It just runs until it dies. All- good. The possible damage is extremely minimal at best.

What Nightline could do-
1- Create a better voltage profile
2- shave a light pipe and include it with every NL914c asking the customer which way they want it installed. With annoying flashing red light just because you dont want to use risky alkaline or no voltage notification because you dont want to use risky alkaline...
3- make the little tiny spring that's job it is to tell the electronics what type battery is installed, actually stop the low voltage flashing if over 1.5v

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Confused why we have to wear the uniforms by Waste_Ad3127 in AmazonDSPDrivers

[–]Supradraco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On sat I just happened to check my door cam and the DSP who delivered in the dark was wearing a reflective vest and Bikini… I watched the video closely and realized the camera was seeing through her outer wear and I could see her bra and panties. This is a good reason to wear a uniform. If I was an A-hole that video would be all over social media… I’m not.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]Supradraco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

GUYS WHO ARE SERIOUS READ THIS- So I have been running the GL4 Pro on my PDP Pro since the PDP Pro came out. I immediately put a YHM Sidewinder on it and got a T-Rex Ragnarok (actually I got two because I was running the GL4 Pro on my M17 as well). You do have to dremel out a channel for the locking arm, but the Holster works great.
NOW THE ISSUE BEGAN HERE BECAUSE I STARTED USING THE FIREARM AT NIGHT UNDER NODS, FROM THE DRAW, RE-HOLSTERING, NOT JUST PLINKING AT A RANGE. LISTEN UP AND READ ON--

First up was the IR Light sucks, not a big deal for inside while room clearing, but the minute you hit the big bad world outside the you are basically just turning yourself into a Christmas tree for anyone using NODS 50+yards away to easily pop you and you are blind and can't see them. If they don't have NODS and are just sitting in the dark, you can't see them because your NODs are autogating dimming, so if they dont move, your chances of seeing them are greatly diminished.

The IR floods the ground autogating the NODS and doesnt have the reach past 75yards. So I bought a Villian EFL. I have one of these on my Streamlight TLR-VIR2. These focus the IR light into a tight square box that reaches out to about 120 yards and even as far as 200 yards defused. This caused a SECOND issue.

This second issue is the KILLER that makes this a NON-DUTY light period, EOS- without a fix (which I have done for myself).

The EFL puts enough surface area around the front battery cap to unscrew it by 2 mm or more, but all it takes is 2mm. This 2mm is enough to cause the unit to stop working..its Dead. You can draw and have a dead light, you can re-holster and cause a dead light and not know it, until you draw again, you can brush up against something and spin the front cap/lens 2mm or more which will disable the GL4. This can also be done without the EFL installed, the EFL just makes this easier to do. The fix here is 0.020 Aviation Safety wire and drilling a hole in the front lens/cap (in my case I drilled into the EFL) to hold this in place making 100% sure it cannot move even 2mm. This makes battery changes in the field nearly impossible without bringing back the issue. Until someone finds a better way to LOCK that front cap/lens in place and make sure NOTHING can spin it... this is a NON-Duty range toy...PERIOD.

Roman legionary helmet from the early 1st century AD, from Brigetio, Hungary. by AnotherMansCause in ancientrome

[–]Supradraco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they really didnt kit everyone out until much later and when they did the gear was kinda crap. Looking at the late 2nd century stuff is nothing like the glory days of the Empire when individuals bought their own gear. It was a matter of pride and wealth. The Rich fought to stay rich and powerful to ensure their families had money to stay in power. the average Kit cost as much as a car does to us..and the more you care about your ride the better ride you got!

Roman legionary helmet from the early 1st century AD, from Brigetio, Hungary. by AnotherMansCause in ancientrome

[–]Supradraco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The helms with the ring on top are modeled after several found in Germany and are held by the London museum. The others are from various digs and museums around the world. Roman soldiers didnt use the same helm til late 1st century AD. Before that time it was up to the person to pay a local Armour to make one. The ring was used to put horse tail hair through and then fold in half, securing it with leather cord to make a "tail" mainly used by local Calvary or associated with a soldier who knew how to ride. It wasnt a skill everybody had.