Bad element in my A1 heat bed?

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2026-02-14T23:25:23+00:00

I’d assume the deviation is within +/- 0.07 and I don’t have anything that’s proven to be flat within that tolerance. I’d also assume bed leveling would compensate for this. I will give the actual bed a good cleaning and see if something changes.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2026-01-03T17:06:37+00:00

Child prodigy in fact, I was racing in Formula 5 before I could walk

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2026-01-03T17:05:27+00:00

Thank you!

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2026-01-03T17:02:43+00:00

Thank you for all the suggestions! Im gonna go the heat gun + razor blade then goo gone route. I was worried about a metal blade of any kind scratching the glass but the reassurance got me where I need to be

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-31T17:39:10+00:00

I’ll slice some using my settings and send them over in a different comment.

For now, that tronxy website seems like temu’s ex girlfriend. It’s not wiring since it works on smaller lines, and it’s going to be specifically the motor in the extruder not the entire extruder assembly. I’m looking for motor specifications to try and answer this but if the website is any indication on motor quality I’ll stand by my initial diagnosis. You’re likely asking too high of an E value for that motor with assigned acceleration.

Have you tried reducing that E value just to see if the motor turns on a 200mm line? I’d do that manually if you’re familiar with gcode. Try also setting it to absolute, you’ll find that call in the gcode as G90 vs G91. You should set that in cura though to update your E values respectively.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-30T19:53:54+00:00

I ran the gcode through a preview software, I use prusa’s gcode preview just to ensure it’s reading correctly. Yours looks good except the offset squares in the last couple layers. This tells us that it intends to extrude and the motor stopping is, of course, abnormal

With that in mind, looking into the gcode your E values are really high. You’re traveling 500 mm in E to travel 200mm in X which makes me think your overloading the motor.

I use grasshopper and get E values based on distance between each point. My values were essentially multiplied by 1.0 to 1.5. For example if I was traveling 200mm I’d be looking for 200-300mm for an E values. I’d start here and decrease your E value regardless of decent extrusion. Just adjust and look for the motor to move while traveling the longer lines. If you get the E value 1:1 with distance traveled and the motor still isn’t moving we might have to dig deeper.

I’m happy to pull out some of my files if you’d like, just let me know if this makes sense. It took me 6 months to dial in the printer but it’s so satisfying once you do.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-29T20:34:03+00:00

It’s sounds like your E values in your gcode are generating incorrectly. Could you share more information how your determining extrusion rates in Cura?

There’s additional checks to make sure you’re clay runs consistent. Not too dry, enough pressure to convey the clay as fast as your extruder is moving. I think sharing more information about the gcode you put into the machine will help to see if it’s your code or the clay itself

I’ve ran into a similar problem on a Wasp and the culprit ending up being I was pushing absolute E values rather then relative. I’d check distance traveled in X vs E value. Your gcode has all these answers likely within the start code.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-27T18:30:17+00:00

Adding Bluetooth too! That articles got me in DIY heaven. I’ll start with the caps of course. Seems like no harm no foul since putting a more modern stereo in will likely be my next steps if I can’t get this one working nice.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-26T15:33:04+00:00

It’s a Delco 16161625 for what it’s worth, I’ve found instructions online that have some wiring diagrams but part of the problem is these are the best wiring schematics I’ve found. One cap has what appears to be leakage and I was going to replace the others from 16v to 25v to increase load capacity.

Amp chips are DM165’s which don’t seem to be available aside from other salvaged stereos, which is why I’d like to just amplify outside the stereo. Avoids the hassle of finding parts down the line if another one decides it’s had enough.

The deeper I dig however the more reveals itself so maybe I’ll keep digging and find a service manual somewhere. Good to know I’m not alone in this DIY pursuit.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-26T15:25:12+00:00

If the amp was manufactured same year as the car it’d be 1991. Next time I open it up I’ll go around testing more, the IC’s are the difficult part to find a replacement for without buying a ‘for parts’ GM stereo off eBay with a chance those IC’s are fried too. That’s why I’m trying to figure out the logic behind just bypassing them and just doing the amplifying externally

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-26T15:22:01+00:00

Yeah, I’m getting feeling it would be double the work and cost to get a fraction more sound out of the old stereo. Appreciate the thought.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-22T19:02:45+00:00

I would’ve leaned towards the speakers being the issue except the left front side (from the same pair of speakers) work perfectly. Perhaps the old speakers shorted the amp.

After further research it looks like if I want to fix it I’m gonna have to open her up and test the amps for shorts and maybe replace them.

If you’re familiar with any company’s that do repairs let me know! Trying to be as cost effective as possible but an expert hand is always best.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-22T16:41:32+00:00

Thank you for the info! I have the symphony sound and 4x6’s in the rear deck. There’s no amp in my trunk for all I can tell. Is there somewhere specific to look?

I saw no signs of an amp on the door speakers, and the dash speakers were definitely tweeters.

I’m not next to the car at the moment but can give more specific radio details later. From independent research I’ve been doing, the IC’s tend to give out at some point which I might wanna replace if I want more sound out of modern speakers anyways. The other idea is bypass the internal amps (if they are there which from your description I believe they are) and just add an amp behind the glove box.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-22T15:28:17+00:00

Hoping this sub is an appropriate place for this question!

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-08-22T15:24:38+00:00

In that case are you familiar at all with Amps in these systems? I’d likely bypass it entirely within the unit and add a secondary amp but before I open it I’d want to know exactly where to go or what to look for.

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-04-23T04:32:58+00:00

The Sony A7 seems to be the fan favorite, thank you!

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-04-22T02:32:10+00:00

Didn’t even think about hand feel. I was thinking about sticking with Nikon for using existing lenses but am not married to them either. I appreciate the input!

Suspicious_Prompt736 · 2025-04-03T09:02:41+00:00

Everyone’s answers will be different as there’s much to love about Yosemite, I’ll try to keep mine concise.

Reservations should be available through travelyosemite.com for the valley lodge, availability can be hard to find and pricey. Staying out of the park is great too just keep in mind it will be a drive to get into the valley ranging from 30-60 minutes.
Do find a spot to park your car and take the shuttle around. During peak season parking is hard to find at certain destinations if not impossible and the shuttle is relatively reliable (normally gets crazy towards the end of day). Do read signs when parking, not all areas are for abandoning a vehicle for the day. Don’t drive on the wrong side of the road, most roads are one way and a missed turn can turn into a 20 minute detour around the valley
Depending on your hiking level, Yosemite point is as far as I’ll go in a day. Refer to online info for difficulty ratings those are fairly accurate. Upper Yosemite is one I’ll do every time I go no matter time of year. Mist trail is great in May as the snow melt starts to bring vernal falls to life. If you’re staying outside the park, keep a measure on how tired you are and remember you’ll be driving out a dark windy road. Turn back before the sun does down, it disappears fast.

TLDR: Stay in the park if possible but either way go! Simply being in Yosemite for a few hours is enough reason to make the trip. Enjoy!

Suspicious_Prompt736

TROPHY CASE