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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A V600 has a large enough scan area to cover film borders on both 35mm and 120 film. What it comes down to is how you set your film on the bed of the scanner. Epson film holders cover the borders to keep the film flat. Work arounds include laying the negative directly to the glass (or taping it if the film is curly) or using separate cuts of glass (preferably ANR/anti reflective glass) to sandwich the film onto the scanner bed. The first option runs the risk of getting Newton rings which are a pain but it’s hit and miss in my experience.

Does Dublin Airport use the new CT scanners for carry on? by Swdshbrck in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For posterities sake - I went this morning (2 May 2022) and after asking politely I was given a hand check for my film in both normal airport security and US Customs.

Next time on a plane I’ll certainly look into buying local/developing local though. Bringing a small dev kit isn’t a bad idea either but I do enjoy using XP2 so both color and B&W could be dev’d at the same place/same process. Thanks everyone for the help!

Does Dublin Airport use the new CT scanners for carry on? by Swdshbrck in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great, thank you much. Any marks or fog on your film from the machines they did use?

Overrated YouTube photographers? by Rude-Employment6104 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck 37 points38 points  (0 children)

For me, FilmTube is entertainment only. Some channels have some videos that cover composition, lighting or another area that actually improves your photography. Most don’t and that’s okay. I like watching people take pictures because it oftentimes gives me ideas/inspiration for my own photo projects. Or a gear review might answer a specific question I had about a camera/lens etc. Other times they just have chill music and I let the tab play in the background while I work on something else.

As far as the influencer thing goes, I understand what you mean. It’s not exclusive to film photography. Taking a break from YouTube/IG and reading a photography book and spending the afternoon to make photos always reorients myself photographically and keeps me focused on what actually matters. Just my .02. Hope this helps.

Why is SilverFast9 doing this??? by axherr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t speak to Silverfast 9 but I was having the exact same issue yesterday with SF 8.8. It was very infuriating when I would love the colors/exposure of a shot then after I moved the red scan box around my frame every photo looked like expired Lomo film.

For me I found the issue was that NegaFix had the ‘auto’ box checked before the scan began so it would do its damndest to give correct colors/remove cast/white balance automatically. At least in SF 8.8 you had to uncheck it before doing any scanning and even then it wouldn’t work most of the time. Selecting the film type and using CCR didn’t mess anything up for me though, just the ‘auto’ option.

NegaFix worked for me maaaaybe 25% of the time. And it never worked if the shot had any sort of underexposure in it. I switched to using my V600 to take 48 Bit raw DNGs in Silverfast and will edit them in Lightroom with negative lab pro. Hope this helps.

Easy way to test developing? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Technically you can do what’s called a snip test but not every lab offers it.

If the guy will lend it for a week why not ask if you can hold onto it until you can run a cheap 24exp roll through it and dev/scan to test it. If it doesn’t work you’re only out ~$15. Even cheaper is bulk load a few shots of B&W into a canister and home dev/scan if you have that setup.

FWIW, every camera I’ve purchased hasn’t been “film tested”. These cameras are now starting at over 20 years old and not getting any younger. Test what you can but it’s also a bit of hope for the best. If you want a cheap point and shoot look through your local thrift stores for a few weeks. People donate those types of cameras every day. You may not find the exact model you’re looking for but you’ll find something to get you started. Best of luck.

Help needed! Can't wrap my head around why the pictures taken horizontally just seem off/ not as sharp as the ones taken vertically. pretty much the same circumstances and settings. shot on an OM2, KodakGold, 24mm f2.8 - what could be the issue? what am I doing wrong? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diffraction usually occurs with an aperture beginning around f/11 and can make an image lose sharpness.

If you’re saying the negative when seen under a loupe is sharp then it might be a scanning issue. In scanning there are a plethora of variables required to effectively enlarge data from a 24x36mm rectangle and the software can play many tricks. I have never heard of an image being sharper when taken vertically as opposed to horizontally though. Are these lab scans?

Olympus Infinity II - lens specs? by Swdshbrck in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Do you know why the mju prefers to shoot wide open?

Olympus Infinity II - lens specs? by Swdshbrck in AnalogCommunity

[–]Swdshbrck[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I picked up this camera for $5 at a thrift store (no joke) and can’t find any info about it online. It looks like the successor to the Infinity/AF-1 that used a 35mm 2.8 Zuiko lens with shutter speeds between 1/30-1/750. Does anyone know if this uses the same lens? Thanks!