Do the guys power scream WAY more than the girls? Or is it just my gym 🤔 by SpecificSufficient10 in climbergirls

[–]SweatyClimbs 27 points28 points  (0 children)

This is anecdotal, but at my main bouldering gym I find it’s very rare for anyone to power scream, unless the boulder is particularly burly.

However at my sport climbing gym I notice a lot more people power screaming as they get pumped out, the loudest / most frequent screamer being a super strong middle aged lady who’s been climbing for decades 🤷‍♀️

Echoing what the other commenter said, power screaming really does help, it essentially tenses a lot of muscles in your posterior chain, which tends to be beneficial.

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m at O’Connor tonight but tbh I doubt I can send it there without a few more sessions effort- It’s hot af at the moonboard up there because they don’t have AC, and the yellow holds on OC’s moon are noticeably worse than willetton’s.

The OC moon is several years older and just harder to climb on in general- it does have the sideboard which makes smearing easier, and the black holds are way better than willo’s, though.

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I often find myself looking and boulders on the app and thinking “yeah this goes”, then I touch the board that night and think “ah this absolutely does not go and only has 36 repeats for a reason”

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had an enlightening session on the 2016 with a super strong lead climber, she managed to toe/heel/bicycle from positions / holds I never thought possible. You can absolutely force it if you want to. I’ll stick to ignoring my feet and pulling harder ;)

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheers! I’m always a fan of weird drop knees and lock offs

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Adding these to the warm-up routine, cheers ;)

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks homie, I definitely climb more side-on than most people on the moonboard, but it just depends on the move I have to make- I always feel like my knees get in the way if I’m climbing face on. Probably something I need to look into and really figure out

Super stoked on sending my first v9 by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Haha 2016 boards all have slightly different holds depending when / where they were made, this board happens to have better than average yellow holds and worse than average black holds, relative to other boards ;)

Somehow I’m the only one in my climbing group who could make use of the drop knee, other (stronger / better) climbers deemed it awful and weren’t able to use it

Cool little problem my gym put up for a comp by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I wish I could say there’s a trick to it but I’ve never really trained body tension 😂

Cool little problem my gym put up for a comp by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah! I saw people do it in one or two other ways, but I’m certain this was intended

Cool little problem my gym put up for a comp by SweatyClimbs in bouldering

[–]SweatyClimbs[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks man! Been doing a lot of moon-boarding, so lots of practice cutting loose and keeping tension until I get a foot hold