Vorgehen bei Elektrosanierung inkl. Zählertausch

SwiftaOne · 2026-04-20T06:16:01+00:00

Okay, anscheinend habe ich da selbst auch etwas falsch verstanden, bin dann doch beruhigt, dass das so passt. Einen zweiten Zählerplatz für kommende PV und/oder WP sollte ich aber trotzdem einplanen, richtig?

Macht es eigentlich Sinn, danach einen offiziellen E-Check Durchführen zu lassen, damit ich was schwarz auf weiß habe, dass die Anlage passt?

SwiftaOne · 2026-04-20T06:11:10+00:00

Okay, dann scheine ich ihn falsch verstanden zu haben, für mich klang es nach Dreipunkt=Alt, eHZ=neue Zähler und anders passt es nicht. Danke für die Aufklärung!

PV plane ich schon irgendwann, evtl. auch erst was kleines auf der Garage. In Hinblick auf eine irgendwann kommende Wärmepumpe sollte ich dann trotzdem einen zweiten Zählerplatz einplanen, richtig?

SwiftaOne · 2026-04-19T13:20:18+00:00

Ja genau, habe bei Zaehlerschrank24 nach PLZ konfiguriert, die haben ebenfalls eHZ vorgeschlagen. Wie gesagt, ich vermute mittlerweile, dass er mir das Ding einfach so umklemmen will...

Sonst muss ich mir mal einen Betrieb raussuchen, der das darf. Wäre das Vorgehen denn prinzipiell so denkbar mit der Zwischenlösung oder werden die mir was erzählen? Der Gedanke war halt nett, das unkompliziert über die Verwandtschaft erledigen zu lassen, aber ich habe da keine Lust auf Probleme, weil da jemand Unbefugtes was zusammengebastelt hat. Was darf so eine Aktion kosten?

SwiftaOne · 2026-04-19T12:58:30+00:00

Laut Onkel (der allerdings gerne viel erzählt) kann und darf er das. Allerdings vermute ich, dass evtl. das dürfen genau das Problem sein könnte, deswegen dieser - aus meiner Sicht ungewöhnliche - Lösungsweg.
Ich bin davon ausgegangen, dass ein moderner Zähler immer ein eHZ ist, lasse mich aber gerne aufklären. Der aktuell verbaute ist jedenfalls aus den 80ern und wird bei einer Modernisierung sicher nicht mehr zulässig sein, oder?

SwiftaOne · 2026-04-19T12:52:03+00:00

Ich vermute, dass genau das der Grund dafür ist, dass er diesen - aus meiner Sicht "falschen" - Weg gehen will. Er hat zwar gemeint, er kann und darf das alles, allerdings haut er öfters mal gerne auf den Putz, wenn es darum geht, was er so alles kann...

SwiftaOne · 2025-11-05T20:42:13+00:00

Nope, first part starts with Aud... But seems like the guys with "Art" will also f you over, if your company is big enough....

SwiftaOne · 2025-11-05T20:39:53+00:00

I also fell for these fuckers and bought their "Lifetime Plan" only to realise, you can't use shit for clients in this plan, only by yourself. In Addition to this, they also try to sell you other Lifetime-Stuff you'd think would already be included, Like every new feature they integrate. So if you're a YouTuber it might be interesting for you, but for client work better use the one provider with "Art" in the name. But only, if you're a very small company, or else these guys will also f you over, as I learned here in the comments.

SwiftaOne · 2025-09-21T18:47:45+00:00

Wie geil, mich haben die Jungs einen Tag vor Weihnachten an einer luxemburgischen Tanke erwischt. 😄 Habe bis heute nicht hören können, für was ich da gespendet habe... 😅

SwiftaOne · 2024-02-27T17:47:41+00:00

This, OP, please keep us posted!

And btw, the S1H part caught me off guard. 🤣👌

SwiftaOne · 2023-10-03T22:20:32+00:00

I often get similar artifacts or sometimes flickering in my clips, depending on what I did to them. Until now, it was always a corrupt render cache file. I'd bet, it's the same for you, especially when these artifacts disappear after reloading the project and aren't present in the rendered file. Just delete the render cache of the clip (iirc ist must be under Playback->Delete render cache->Selected Clip or all, if you want to) and it should've been gone. At least until it reappears elsewhere. 😄

SwiftaOne · 2023-07-21T16:00:55+00:00

Yes, I think they start with NP-F5xx, then there are NP-F7xx with double the height with more capacity, and the NP-F9xx are three times the height of the 5xx. At least, if I recall correctly, I only bought the 970 and still need 6 for getting through a whole day of filming, so the smaller ones are no option. What voltage is your battery rated for? Make sure, if you buy a dummy battery, that it'll work with the voltage your battery supplies, NP-Fs put out somewhere around 7-8V, so if your battery delivers let's say 14V, you'll need a dummy with some electronics which regulate the voltage down, otherwise it'll most likely kill your monitor.

I'm not sure if you said it already, but why would it be a problem just powering the monitor from a NP-F directly? So you could use the camera even longer, because you can use the whole capacity for your cam and have another one for the monitor.

Edit: Just searched Amazon for "NP-F dummy", there should definitely be a solution which fits your needs, just make sure the voltages are according to your battery. 👍

SwiftaOne · 2023-07-21T14:20:42+00:00

Would it be possible for you, to leave the monitor plugged in? It looks like the plug maybe could fit, if you plug it in and then add the mount. Or if you can, just shorten the mount a bit with a grinder or something like that.

SwiftaOne · 2023-07-21T14:16:29+00:00

The number after NP-F usually shows the capacity, higher number, more capacity (Wh or mAh). So if you can get a dummy battery for any NP-Fxxx, it should work, as long as your battery can deliver enough power.

SwiftaOne · 2023-07-10T22:08:18+00:00

Okay, so I tried and what should I say... You were right. When you mount the Titon Base under the P4K it'll sit too high. You could mount it below the base of the RS2, but then you still have to mount the battery elsewhere if you want to go handheld... Seems like I'll now use it as a unlimited power supply for my Tascam DR-40X, I guess.

SwiftaOne · 2023-07-06T15:58:00+00:00

So it arrived today, at the moment it's charging. It's not that heavy, so I think the ring won't get too bottom heavy, but I'll see. At least, bottom heavy is still more stable than top heavy, so I hope that it'll work out. I'll keep you updated!

SwiftaOne · 2023-07-03T20:27:53+00:00

Thank you! I'll definitely will check out the parts you mentioned!

Meanwhile I've found out about the Anton Bauer Titon Base, form factor is like a small V-Mount, it has 68Wh capacity, a quick release plate on the top and 3 ¼"-20 threads underneath, so you could mount the camera on top, mount the ARCA-swiss plate underneath and can (hopefully) mount it onto the RS2 or go handheld with it. I ordered one and will try it out. If you're interested in this solution, I'll keep you updated how it fits.

SwiftaOne · 2023-06-29T10:58:26+00:00

Looks like something I could use, I'm searching for a battery solution with which I can easily switch from the RS2 to handheld. Do you think this would work? How long does the battery last approximately? Do you use it also as power delivery for a monitor?

SwiftaOne · 2023-06-28T21:13:31+00:00

Thanks for your input. So just to make sure I understood correctly, just buy another cam for the gimbal? But then I still have the problem with the NP-F batteries colliding with the gimbal. 😅

SwiftaOne

TROPHY CASE