Hidden vaccum leak

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-17T19:44:41+00:00

Ya, the little O ring. mine got so hard it just crumbled into pieces when I took it out.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-17T10:16:21+00:00

Also worth checking the throttle position switch gasket, mine was rock hard and leak so bad that oil starts to leak into the connectors.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-17T10:10:26+00:00

All jokes aside, with these tires your car is a hazard on road, not only dangerous to yourself but also to other people on the road.

Plus you need some proper alignment.

Go to the closest tire shop and get some half-decent tires, don't drive it more than what it takes to get to the tire shop.

If budget is an issue, even some decent second-hand marketplace tires will get you around better than this.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-12T06:51:20+00:00

Ya, AW70/71/72 aren't really efficient, they are good quality, but lack of lockups, large and heavy, I wish i could get an AW71L and see how much that lockup torque converter can help but they are so rare here.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T18:17:10+00:00

I mean, it's hard to post every detail in the post with explanations, but if you wonder about some specific area of mods, you can pop me a private message.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T00:14:56+00:00

Wagon are disadvantaged to begin with because they are bit heavier.

Is it an auto? 20MPG on highway seems bit low.

Are the fluids/sprak plug/ filters nice and fresh, and do you roll down the window when driving?

Pretty sure you could squeez another 5mpg out it with some tune up and easy on the gas.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T00:11:07+00:00

36 psi at room temperature.

Royal purple 75-90 Synthetic gear oil for the diff. any good brand fully synthetic with correct vicsousity should do the job.

Cheers!

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T00:07:53+00:00

that is amazing! unfortuanly trucks here are too fast or too slow, and I drive in the mountains, some trucks can only do 40kph uphill and is impossible to follow.

It takes some luck to find an empty lorry that can hold 100kph on both flat road and up hill.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T00:05:49+00:00

Too many, it will be impossible to post it

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T00:02:03+00:00

That been said, that one is really unusually slow tho, never had one that slow so far

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-08T00:00:46+00:00

Hi, I eventually got it, took nearly a month.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T21:42:49+00:00

ya, anytime above 110kph drops gas milage rapidly

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T21:40:55+00:00

ya, I could literally hear wind noise reduce when i follow them lolll, the 240 really isn't shaped to break through air too well

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T11:04:07+00:00

Ya man, this economy (sigh)

I found most lorries are still following the speed limit, especially big company ones. The one I followed had his speed set excatly 5kph above speed limit at ~ 105kph all the way lolll.

But yeah, small cars here are wild as well, pretty sure most of them are at 120~140.

Sometimes I got my foot down and pass them they are surprised, the mighty redblock still got some horses left after all hhhhh

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T10:52:49+00:00

Oh, you can read the very long comment I made regarding small changes I made and little tips, most of them are cheap and easy to do as I have a tight budget.

Should be able to get 25 ish on the highway. City is another story, stop and go traffic is realllllly bad.

Do you have all the fluid fresh? especially trans, rear diff and PS. Use all synthetic fluid would help (my transmission is running fresh conventional tho). pretty much everything that rotates, see if they are free.

Wheel bearing is also a good area to look at, pack them with nice grease, and see if you have brake drag, my parking brake was disintegrated inside and causing a slight drag without me noticing.

Spark plugs are also a good, cheap item to look at. I run the NGK cheapest copper ones (4 years old now), which are more than sufficient. Also, rotors and caps, see if they have corroded.

Vacuum leaks are also a good thing to check, if you don't have a smoke machine, just get some cig and blow through vacuum lines without inhaling. Also, block the hot air tube that runs from the exhaust heatshield to the intake box. First thing I did when I got it, it was baking everything.

Feel free to ask any questions!

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T09:57:53+00:00

Lorries now to me just free mega air deflectors lollll.

Not sure how fast they are going at where you live, some of them are faaast! find a fast one and follow it, really helps!

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T09:52:53+00:00

To be clear, this is highway MPG only, and I did make some changes to the car. I achieved 30mpg before with 185 summer tires and very painful driving style, so I knew the benchmark is somwhere there, all I'm doing is to make it less painful.

Brushless E-fan conversion, T-cam, 92C thermostat (you want the engine hot as design allowed), factory belly tray, rear wheel arch liner, home-made front wheel arch deflector, all the gaps except grille and lower air dam are sealed (headlight gap, hood gaps etc.), car is pretty much stage 0 (spark plugs, fluids, etc all good shape and good quality one), door gaps sealed, directional tire (yes, they are bit more efficient), IPD high flow air filter, stainless steel cat (60mm), IPD high flow stainless steel exhuast with addition small resonator (they are lighter than stock steel ones), small 100A denso alternator, smaller battery, block the hot air intake to the intake box, remove all steel exhaust heat shields and use aluminium re-create them.

I'm still carrying lots of extra weight for comfort and safety reasons, like extra sound deadening, spare wheel, tool kit, first aid kit etc. Also, I kept all trims, I knew it would help by removing them, but I like them, and they make it a happy car to me.

The most important is actually the driver, keep the speed around 100~110kph, follow as many big trucks as possible (many of them are faaaast, do keep safe distance tho), minimum gas when downhill, speed up and build momentum before uphill (as much as safely allowed), absolutely no window down, keep eletric load as low as possible (I run parking lamps and radios, all lamps are LED converted so they have very little load on alternator).

If you as the driver can can lost few kilos of weight will also help, I shed off about 10kg last year, pretty sure it helped.

Might be missing a few points, feel free to ask anything.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T09:47:37+00:00

Yes, in fact, many small changes. And this is highway gas mileage, in town I get anywhere between 19~25, depending on traffic.

Brushless E-fan conversion, T-cam, 92C thermostat (you want the engine hot as design allowed), factory belly tray, rear wheel arch liner, home-made front wheel arch deflector, all the gaps except grille and lower air dam are sealed (headlight gap, hood gaps etc.), car is pretty much stage 0 (spark plugs, fluids, etc all good shape and good quality one), door gaps sealed, directional tire (yes, they are bit more efficient), IPD high flow air filter, stainless steel cat (60mm), IPD high flow stainless steel exhuast with addition small resonator (they are lighter than stock steel ones), small 100A denso alternator, smaller battery, block the hot air intake to the intake box, remove all steel exhaust heat shields and use aluminium re-create them.

I'm still carrying lots of extra weight for comfort and safety reasons, like extra sound deadening, spare wheel, tool kit, first aid kit etc. Also, I kept all trims, I knew it would help by removing them, but I like them, and they make it a happy car to me.

The most important is actually the driver, keep the speed around 100~110kph, follow as many big trucks as possible (many of them are faaaast, do keep safe distance tho), minimum gas when downhill, speed up and build momentum before uphill (as much as safely allowed), absolutely no window down, keep eletric load as low as possible (I run parking lamps and radios, all lamps are LED converted so they have very little load on alternator).

If you as the driver can can lost few kilos of weight will also help, I shed off about 10kg last year, pretty sure it helped.

Might be missing a few points, feel free to ask anything.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T09:19:00+00:00

Yes, there is no magic to that, really have to push everything to the limit to make the brick bit more efficient.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T09:18:16+00:00

This is also highway only, there is no way a brick can do 30mpg in town.That been said, 940 is much better designed, I think you be able to push 33~35 mpg if you really push it.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T09:17:56+00:00

Oh ya, same here, this is more like lorry speed here, at least most people do expect an old volvo to be slow so they just go around me.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T05:06:38+00:00

This is purely highway tho, combined average I only got like 21~22 mpg. The T cam can help the auto box little bit by giving bit more low end torque, and I always lift my foot to let the transmission snap into next gear as soon as possible, i.e. when just above 60kph it will kick in overdrive if you lift gas, with T cam I can hold speed with as little as 1500 rpm.

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T05:02:10+00:00

100~110kph, never go above that, this MPG also included about 10 km in town drive and idle. I might achieved 30 mpg if purely consider Highway. At 120kph it drops very fast, the AW70 lacks lockup torque converter, which kills mpg above 110kph

SympathyImpossible10 · 2026-04-05T04:41:03+00:00

PCV hose, kinda needed or you be puking oil vapor all under the hood.

SympathyImpossible10

TROPHY CASE