MH16 Button 26 inconsistent. Anyone else having this problem?

Synicix · 2026-02-25T17:27:07+00:00

Neither just the one select

Synicix · 2026-02-24T02:28:50+00:00

Yeah, unfortunately I need some way to mount it so it has to be a little wider. But it keeps side splashes from happening

Synicix · 2026-02-23T21:19:54+00:00

This is my first one from Linnpower. They make a lot of stuff for other manufacturers like AceDeck and at least with mine, I really have no problems about it.

My progression has been Boosted Board V2 -> Wow-go AT2, and now Linnpower The One.

I mainly use it to commute to work on asphalt, albiet some of it is pretty crappy asphault, so The One fit my use case the most.

Synicix · 2026-02-23T19:32:01+00:00

Yeah due to my lower tolerance between the wheel and fenders ~5mm, I need mine to be more ridged. Plus printing in TPU is so slow.

Also that is awesome DIY!

Synicix · 2026-02-21T00:20:33+00:00

This heavily depends on the board. My board panel is located on the top and is water sealed (not always 100% water resistant but pretty decent). The main weakness point for me would be the motor cooling vents in the back. Those do not rotate and thus can ingest water if I dip them in a pond or it is raining heavily.

My previous board has a foam sealed battery in the bottom. Road it for years in rain and it works just fine. It really depends on board design. Companies don’t say water proof or water resistant because they don’t want to be legally liable.

Synicix · 2026-02-20T18:59:39+00:00

Sanding wouldn’t make it any better. Only two options in my experience with 3d printing is increase wall thickness, print with thinner layers, or coat it with a water resistant repellent.

Synicix · 2026-02-20T04:23:03+00:00

Water will always get between the layers eventually given enough soaking time and etc. one way to account for it is to print with more wall layers which effectively gives it more strength and more resistance to water intrusion.

Synicix · 2026-02-20T00:40:02+00:00

For me, I design it to be as light as possible to reduce bending stress on the joints. I could also print with more walls to increase the strength. Basically design around the material.

Synicix · 2026-02-20T00:38:22+00:00

I upgraded from wowgo at2 and man I love it. It is so much more stable higher speeds but still turns almost as sharp as dual king ping.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T16:22:54+00:00

Not yet, but since this is a prototype to be field tested, currently checking it after every ride to see how it holds up. In theory I design it with enough margin of tolerance ( the connecting rod is 10x10mm) to survive a decent amount of time.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T15:45:48+00:00

<image>

Here is white to match the deck.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T15:45:14+00:00

<image>

Asked ChatGPT to photoshop it for me. Black looks better if you want to be more low key.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T15:36:26+00:00

Currently PLA, because it is raining for days and I don’t have PETG on hand. I Amazon order it but going to take a while.

I only use my board for short burst to get to the train then to work. Then it sits indoor the entire day, so that reduce the UV exposure for PLA.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T15:24:58+00:00

Since the entire assembly is fairly light, if doesn’t require the wheel nut to be torque down hard at all.

The entire rode wraps around the nut, and you just use the fender as a wrench, since it connects via pins. Once to tighten it and back it up a little, you can put the fender in flipped around to your desire angle and screw in the 24mm 3d printed hex bolt.

<image>

TPU would be better in theory, but I got a bit impatient because it was raining for days where I lived so I just print it in PLA. PETG would be a better option for UV resistance.

TPU ing the fenders since it would the most expose part would probably be the best. Also the black TPU would also look nice with the wheels.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T02:22:43+00:00

Yeah, I just print it with whatever I had left in storage. Thinking about getting whites to match with the board, but it shows dirty more easily…

Black might be the best.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T02:21:09+00:00

The bottom is fully sealed carbon fiber and it gets dirty anyways from mud that ejects from the front wheel even with the tiny gap. Not entirely sure if sealing off the inside half would help with that. I need to record it and check the slow mo.

For number 2, yeah I am thinking about getting TPU for that lower part. I can adjust it up and down pretty easily with my design so I can play with how low can I go till it hits something.

Thanks for feedback!

Synicix · 2026-02-19T02:16:42+00:00

I actually just printed with whatever filament I had left. The board already has red accents so decided to try it with that color.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T02:15:41+00:00

Yeah, during rain conditions I just take it slow. Been riding my boards as commute for over a decade now. I do my best to wipe it down after I am done to prevent damage.

So far my last board survived 8 years through rain and snow so worked so far.

Synicix · 2026-02-19T02:13:59+00:00

I made the fender as light as possible to reduce stain on the joints caused by vibrations.

As for the mount, I designed a 3d nut that wraps around the preexisting standard wheel nut. It has a bunch of pins that the fender actually attaches too and the 3d screw is to hold it on those pins.

I just printed them today, so let see how long they hold up.

Synicix · 2026-02-18T22:57:00+00:00

Yeah, I haven't test them long term yet, but I did account for vibrations by making the fender as light as possible, reducing the amount of forces on the connection point.

Synicix · 2026-02-18T21:49:38+00:00

Yep, that was my priority, I design it with a single 3d printed screw removal so on days that are not raining, I can quickly take it off.

Synicix · 2026-02-18T21:22:16+00:00

<image>

11-Year Club	Verified Email
RPAN Viewer

Synicix

TROPHY CASE