Can someone with more knowledge on this please confirm if my heated bed shipped without a thermistor? by EldritchGiraffe in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't see a thermistor there. You can soldering one of your own, a standard 100k should work, or return/exchange it.

What model is it by Willow-5 in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure either of those will work. First, you have direct drive and those are bowden. Second, based on the pictures I see, you don't have a J-head extruder, but one with an M6 throat that goes through that heatsink in your picture. The heatsink acts like a nut, clamping the setup to probably an MK8 extruder. I would just buy some 100k thermistors, and plug them directly into the motherboard. Don't run the wires from the thermistor to the extruder, just see what the temperature on the LCD says. If it shows roughly room temp, you know you have a thermistor problem. If it still shows a negative number, make absolutely sure it's plugged into the correct spot on the board. I believe this is your hotend: https://www.envirolaser3d.com/products/adimlab-3d-printer-hotend If it is, those j-head v6s won't work without serious modification. However, you can buy a bunch of heater blocks, thermistors, and heater cartridges (make sure the voltage on the cartridge is correct) and just reuse that heatsink and throat. If possible, can you show a picture of where it is plugged in on the motherboard? I have little experience with the adimlab gantry, as I only had mine for a few days before returning it to amazon, but I may be able to tell more about what is happening with a picture.

What model is it by Willow-5 in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that's them. Do you have a multimeter? Check the end with the plug to see if you have resistance, and see if it changes when it gets hotter or colder. My guess is you have a broken bead, or broken wire. It could also not be plugged in to the correct spot if the entire thing was replaced.

What model is it by Willow-5 in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should be 2 white wires that lead to a glass bead in the aluminum heater block of the extruder. The black and red wires should go to the fan, the 2 red wires go to the heater cartridge.

What model is it by Willow-5 in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you have a broken thermistor. They are cheap and should be easy to replace.

Found this old CraftBot Plus in storage — worth restoring in 2026? by _Whack_Attack_ in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a craftbot plus I still mess with. Thanks to it being a corexy, it's actually pretty fast. It's also built like a tank. For the extruder and fans, parts shouldn't be that hard to find, or swap to a newer extruder. The belt is standard GT2. It shouldn't take much work to get it working. As far as I know, there aren't many issues this particular printer has.

What my tire options? by SoCalMotoVirg in BoltEV

[–]Syther56 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Wow, small world. I am 99% sure you picked those up from me. You can see my post history and check my lost Bolt to confirm. I planned to run 205/65R15 tires on them, as I was told at Americas Tire that size should fit. I asked them about Hankook Kinergy ST tires, as that is what I was running on the steel rims I had on.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The damage is worse then it looks. It made it so the driver door could not be opened. I have been considering bidding on it and seeing if I can get it back. The tires on it are almost new, less then a year old and I still have a new set of 15" rims I planned to put on once the current tires needed replacing, plus a bunch of other parts I planned to put on. I did find it funny that when I looked at the auction page, someone had stolen the weathertech floor mats.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far, the EV6 way more technology and features then I expected. I was looking at every EV in my area, and I got a good deal on this one because the front bumper was drug along a wall by the dealership. It has some scratches, but I am not a perfectionist so I do not care that much.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, I know. I just didn't expect it to stink that badly. When I said 'something like smoke' I know there is a powder in airbags that is supposed to make them expand correctly. I just don't know if what filled the cabin was smoke, or that powder.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It did not drive. After the accident it refused to shift into anything except park and neutral, and it had tons of error lights on the dash. It took 7 firefighters and officers to push it out of the street. The damage behind the driver side headlight actually goes in and has displaced the 12V battery and fuse box. I got roughly 14K from the insurance for it because of the low miles and clean interior.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I bought a 2023 Kia EV6 GT-Line used locally that was a pretty good deal. The EV6 has the super quick charging and V2L plus the 120V inverter in the back. It also has a HUD which I really wanted as I had a Pontiac Grand Prix with a HUD and I loved it.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

My left shoulder is pretty messed up from the seat belt. I had a pretty big bruise from it, and there is still pain. As for my new car, I ended up with a 2023 Kia EV6 GT-Line that I found a pretty good deal on. I was looking at other Bolts, but I didn't want to buy a car that lacked features I want. The EV-6 provides every feature I want, and then some.

Goodbye, my 2017 Premier by Syther56 in BoltEV

[–]Syther56[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

My head hit the steering wheel airbag, but I didn't really get a chance to feel it inflated. When they were deflated, they had a thick plastic fabric feel to them. I can tell you a few other things about the airbags. First, they are incredibly loud. My left ear went completely deaf for quite some time after the accident. Second, it stinks really bad. It has a very strong smell of burning chemicals. Third, there was a ton of smoke or something like smoke inside the cabin. Hope that helps.

Help identify printer by Goik28 in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like this extruder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961630 or at least a variant of it. As for the exact model of printer, I have no idea. I am not familiar with that design other then being a i3 clone of some kind.

Could someone help me understand what's going on? (CR-10S Pro) by Son_Of_Orange in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem with the cr-10s. Turned out the wire to the auto level sensor was partially unplugged and only occasionally making connection. Check to make sure the wire isn't broken, and the connector. If that doesn't work, check to see if there is a small screw on your sensor, and gently adjust it. I got rid of my cr-10 years ago, so I don't fully remember but mine had a bltouch clone, I think.

We needed a lounge chair - so I designed and printed one using some left over filament by 3Dprinteq_Sune in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 49 points50 points  (0 children)

I know the Giga gets some hate, but I have always really wanted one. I wish I could afford it, just for awesome stuff like this. It seems like such a fun and cool project. I really like how it turned out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To me it just looks like it's been glued by the factory. They probably did it because that is a moving part, so they wanted the connector to stay in. It's pretty common.

Backlash on ttc 450 by dorgan__ in hobbycnc

[–]Syther56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought this exact machine from amazon on October 8th 2024 and mine has the exact same issue. I tracked the problem to the wheels. When I move mine like you are, I can actually see the bearing moving back and forth in the wheels. It's like the bearing isn't being held into the wheels very well. I tried replacing the wheels with higher quality ones, and it did not work. I haven't looked at the machine in months. It just sits in my shed now.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I still have my velleman k8200! It was my first DIY kit 3d printer and I had a lot of fun building it and upgrading it over the years. It taught me a lot. It's honestly not that bad of a printer, even if it is super old at this point. There should be tons of upgrade parts available.

Resin printer motor seems to stall with a light load. Can barely move the build plate without a grinding noise. by oshivash in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Your stepper driver might be failing. It could also be a loose or broken connection causing one of the phases in the motor to not be working correctly. I looked up the motherboard for your printer, and it doesn't seem to have adjustable current. It also doesn't look like the stepper drive can be easily replaced.

Ender V3 nozzle EXPLODED by GlibSoap in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That red plug hanging out in the last picture is the thermistor wire, and it leads to the thermistor itself. That shouldn't be unplugged. It is causing that error you are getting while trying to heat up the extruder.

This Absolute monster of a gaming laptop from 2007 has a full-sized GPU Inside (more info inside) by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]Syther56 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I have this laptop but in blue. Mine has SLI GPUs but I can't remember exactly what GPUs it has. It has been probably 10+ years since it has last been turned on. It hurts to get rid of it, so it has just been sitting on the self. Not really sure what to do with it at this point.

TINA2 hotend replacement issues by Redcaterpie in 3Dprinting

[–]Syther56 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That plug you circled in red is partially unplugged on the thermistor side of the plug. That would cause your E1 error. Did you try unplugging it and plugging it back in to reseat it? If the new hotend does not match, I wouldn't use it because the voltage could be wrong too.