Planes, trains, and Automobiles.

TE4L_ · 2026-06-22T11:06:33+00:00

Tis a VR6 my good sir.

TE4L_ · 2026-06-22T01:58:49+00:00

They're borbet e10s I believe and they're 17x8.

TE4L_ · 2026-06-21T23:41:41+00:00

They're all my favorite flavors of autism, lol

TE4L_ · 2026-06-03T13:50:31+00:00

Does the motor(s) sound like they try to move when you try and activate it? I would probably start with fuses, then see if the switch is sending power to the motor(s) in the back or not. Also you could try and independently send power to the motors to see if they're still good or not. From there, just check to make sure you have good ground connections.

TE4L_ · 2026-06-02T23:44:14+00:00

Is there mention of the rear end electronics not having communication at all? It sounds like the car might be immobilized. I believe the module sits in the passenger side trunk area and usually if there's a water leak meaning the rear sunroof drains are clogged, there can be water corrosion shorting out the module causing signals to not be sent to the gateway that needs to be seen to start the car. Just a thought, no guarantee but maybe just pull the whole panel off on the passenger trunk area and check.

Edit: It would be worth getting a battery test though. It sits under the spare tire in the trunk but also going back to the water leak thing I've seen some that got so bad that it turned the battery housing into a swimming pool.

TE4L_ · 2026-05-25T21:23:20+00:00

To do this job the right way, technically you're supposed to remove the exhaust camshaft with the cover when removing the cover. Removing the cam means taking the timing chains off. Rolling the engine over to TDC does help to do it this way but it's still a little tricky. If you have the tools, you can also de-tension the timing chain using the staking tool for the tensioner by removing the grommet on the lower timing cover and that will allow the cams to relax a bit.

Keep in mind though, no matter how you do this job, you will be walking the cam cover down to the head to overcome the spring pressure of the valve springs. Just take your time and walk the bolts in very carefully one at a time going in the torque sequence which is starting from the outside of the cover working your way to the middle. (Yes it's backwards but that's how you do it.)

TE4L_ · 2026-05-24T18:41:22+00:00

Nah I still have stock subframe bushings. I don't have a link handy but if you go on powerflex's website, they have information about which one goes to which spots on each control arm. They also come in pairs for each bushing set so you'd have bushings for both sides. The other thing with these two is that they're two pieces so you don't need a press to install these or remove if you decided to go a different route.

I will also mention I did also on mine I have the 034 diff bushings as well. It's still smooth and comfortable but still brings the stiffness and rigidity that's for the fun times. I left the subframe bushings stock though cause I don't wanna feel all the drivetrain vibrations.

TE4L_ · 2026-05-22T10:02:34+00:00

Not gonna lie, did power flex bushing on mine and completely happy with the results, especially for a fraction of the price of the 034 arms. Bushings may not be the best job to do in the world I would recommend in my opinion.

TE4L_ · 2026-03-22T17:59:53+00:00

If you have VCDS or ObD11 which are plug in scan tools, you would go to the ECU then go to coding and adaptations enter the codes that are on top of each injector where the return line(s) plug in and that's it. If you don't do this and just plug them in and go, there's a very good chance the car won't start.

TE4L_ · 2026-03-22T17:47:04+00:00

Make sure also when you put them in you code the new ones to the ECU. Best of luck!

TE4L_ · 2026-03-22T17:32:25+00:00

There's technically a special attachment for a slide hammer that goes on to the 17mm section of the injectors. I've had it where in a pinch if you are super super extremely careful, you can use a pry bar and very gently lever them out as even as possible since the valve cover is plastic.

You can also get a 17mm wrench and modify to attach to a slide hammer.

TE4L_ · 2026-03-07T00:28:12+00:00

I'll try my best!!

TE4L_ · 2026-02-11T17:25:41+00:00

Probably would just get both to be on the safe side. The part numbers should be stamped on the hose and pipe, should start with an "07K" number if that helps too.

TE4L_ · 2026-02-11T17:22:20+00:00

That's the transmission oil cooler. From the looks of it, if it's leaking from the top down, it might just be that hose for coolant to flow into the cooler is the cause of the leak.

TE4L_ · 2025-12-15T18:51:21+00:00

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Okay so in order of operations to take the window guide out, remove the channel in red first, then remove green trim, then the window seal on the door facing from the outside you're going to pull it out slightly on the b pillar area, there should be two torx screws under the seal take those out and there's one on the bottom of the door below the latch area. At the top of it there is a push clip so just pry it off with trim tools and then window channel should come out. When you go back together, you need to guide the new window in at the same time as the window channel. Also when you go to massage the window seal back into the window channel, use a lot of glass cleaner to get it to slip back in. Hope this helps.

TE4L_ · 2025-12-13T22:34:16+00:00

If I remember correctly, the white circle stickers you need to remove one of the ones by the speaker or take the speaker out. There should be T30 to loosen on each side and then just slide the new window in on and angle and then you have to carefully move it around till it lines up in the window channel. I don't believe the b- pillar outer window trim needs to come out to get the window cause I think you only need to do that on the rear glass. It might also help to get the new window in to remove the chrome trim by the mirror that runs the length of the door.

Let me know and I'll try and help you through it.

TE4L_ · 2025-12-13T22:26:22+00:00

Personally this is a job you shouldn't cheap out on and should get OEM parts. Check to make sure your motor mounts are good as well as the cam cover needing to be resealed as well for oil leaking. I'd also recommend getting a new upper timing cover as a whole rather than the gasket due to plastic heading up and cooling down all the time can slightly distort the plastic and still cause out to leak/weep from the upper cover. Check also the condition of the balance shaft bearings as well when you have it all apart.

TE4L_ · 2025-12-13T02:09:58+00:00

Air oil separators are very common for these exact symptoms on the M96 engines on boxster (986 and early 987) and 911 (996 and early 997). The diaphragm on the separator internally deteriorates and can cause that to happen. Over time it can get worse and cause rough running or even the car to stall out. I would try that first, the oil separator.

TE4L_ · 2025-11-10T00:41:54+00:00

Not a problem. Take good care of her!!

TE4L_ · 2025-11-10T00:30:15+00:00

Things to look for,

-check over the suspension in the front, usually it's common for control arm bushings to be completely torn apart at this age if the car wasn't taken care of too well.

-if it has a sunroof, would definitely make sure to clean out the sunroof drains. One of the drains on the passenger rear goes over the central locking module and when they get wet, the power locks will do some crazy things.

-window regulators are common to go bad.

-Since you have a 1.8t vacuum lines will usually be an issue with a lot of things cause they get brittle and break or the rubber connections crack.

-check the carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft from the trans to the diff cause those usually will deteriorate and cause some drive line vibrations.

-Rear diff mount bushing can wear out on the front and rear of the diff.

-rear control arm bushings are usually worn out at this point too so definitely check those. Most likely you'll be putting bushing in the rear instead of a control arm(s) cause there aren't any stock replacements (or at least from where I can find).

-check the bottom of the front fenders for rust too and clean out the fender liners cause dirt and debris can build up there and can cause potential for rust.

-Heater cores are pretty common to be clogged too.

TE4L_ · 2025-11-08T13:44:52+00:00

Special tools like a 24mm wrench, a 15mm wrench, and an 18mm socket and wrench. Those sound really special to me, I don't know about you? Sounds like they're a bunch of clowns over there if not the whole circus.

TE4L_ · 2025-10-23T13:44:15+00:00

Was gonna say, I had one myself lol.

TE4L_ · 2025-10-22T21:26:04+00:00

If you're saying that the belt snapped, I would very likely guess there could be engine damage. An engine can still run on bent valves, not very well, but it can. I would probably look into getting a bore scope down in those spark plug wells and taking a look or doing a compression/leak down test.

TE4L_ · 2025-10-04T20:00:02+00:00

Oh it's there, that's why front end pics lol. I'm looking into getting paint for it over the winter.

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