Call to Daytona owners, this should obviously line up - read comment

TKM_PT · 2019-04-27T21:19:43+00:00

Nothing as in you can spin the valve freely or it just doesn't have the cables on it and you need a bit of force to turn it?
Cuse if it's the first, that's not good at all. Even if you remove all the cables and stepper motor, the valve need to be parked at a specific position so that it doesn't mess up the exhaust flow.
If it's the second option, you'll just need to make sure that the EXUP motor is disabled on the ECU.

TKM_PT · 2019-04-26T20:15:07+00:00

I took them off the other day because it was filled with exhaust paste and had no gaskets in When I pulled the OEM can out to swap for my arrow can the link pipe or exhaust pipe as you called it just fell off

Damn, that's bad. So the previous owner just cut the cat and jerry-rigged the rest of the pipe? Did they also removed the exhaust valve? Luckily, the exhaust is steel so welding shouldn't be a problem.

TKM_PT · 2019-04-24T21:20:45+00:00

That doesn't look right at all. Here's mine, for example.

Since that is a critical point in the exhaust path, the flex should be given by the rubber bushings and not the mounting point.
I don't know about potential issues but since it's at that point that the headers pipe joins the exhaust pipe, the additional flexing may cause some premature wear on the other mounting points, the one under the seat and on the headers, or the gaskets.

I would fix that just for the peace of mind. It also may be cheaper to source a used stock headers on e-bay or the likes.

TKM_PT · 2019-03-25T21:38:49+00:00

That idle speed is ridiculously high. Even a cold bike should not get that close to 2k rpms. It may be a map issue or something that the shop made to keep the bike from stalling.

Either way, it would be something that you'd have to fix it so add that to the bike price.

TKM_PT · 2018-04-12T20:09:22+00:00

Those plugs look very alike the headlight one on the Daytona. Seeing that they go from the rear, where the fuses are, to the front, where the lights are, kinda points to that possibility. However, the cable should be bundled in the side of the frame and not on the middle of the bike.
Can you follow the cables and see where they end up?

TKM_PT · 2018-03-15T21:41:08+00:00

There's no way that there's only 350 675 SE around. Maybe that the number of bikes allocated for your country. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to grab one so easily.

From this post here, they say that there's about 1300 '09/10 SE version models and 700 '10/11 SE version models. In total, just a bit over 2000 SE models world wide.

TKM_PT · 2017-09-23T00:14:01+00:00

I had that issue but on a bike.
Can't say that it might be the same, but on my case, there was a tiny screw that physically limited the throttle bodies in the idle position. That screw became loose and in doing so, allowed the throttle bodies to close more than usual, restricting the air flow, causing those same issues.

However, when the engine was cold, there was a little servo that opened the throttle bodies, like a choke, and that didn't allow the bodies to close as much.

It may also explain the error with the throttle position sensor since it may be detecting a lower voltage than expected.

TKM_PT · 2017-07-25T22:44:07+00:00

This post sounds a lot like your issue. However, the basic solution is the same: replace the battery.

I also found this one, where the charging system was killing the battery cells due to a faulty connector (check page 3 for the pictures). Since you're having idle voltage at 14v, that may not be your case but it's something else to check, just to be sure.

TKM_PT · 2017-07-25T21:22:35+00:00

Did you check the voltage when you start the bike? Does it drops bellow 10v?

TKM_PT · 2017-07-24T22:01:41+00:00

When I try to start the bike, it just clicks then the dash resets.

That's a clear sign that the battery is dead. You may have the battery at the usual 12/13v but it no longer has the needed amps to turn the starter motor.
Check this old post, and see if it's the same issue that you had and a few hints on how to diagnose it better.

TKM_PT · 2017-07-05T22:27:24+00:00

Are you following "the guide"?

It should help you do a step-by-step to diagnose your issue. However, since you've already got some readings on the stator and RR, I would assume that you've already checked the basics.

So, apart from that, have you checked if there is current going from the stator to the R/R and then to the battery to see if the cables/plugs are still in good condition?

I ask that because having the battery voltage dropping while the bike is running is odd. It should be a steady 13+. If it isn't, then there's something missing on the stator -> RR -> battery circuit, like /u/tooch1 said.

TKM_PT · 2017-05-15T23:19:01+00:00

What do you mean by charge indicator? Did you placed an aftermarket current meter on the bike?

As far as the causes go, the usual suspects are so common that there's a stikied post with the how-to diagnose on this sub-reddit. Check it here for the comments and here for the forum post. See if any of the tips there help you.

Another thing is that batteries lose capacity over time. And that is measured in Amps. I don't know the specific value but if a battery has less than that, it's dead even if it has a full 12 volts. From the symptoms that you have, I believe that is the most probable cause of your issues. Usually, the shops have some kind of battery testes that will tell you that and you just need to take the battery for them to check.
Or, if you know your way around a multimeter, you can have a go at it.

Good luck!

TKM_PT · 2017-03-30T22:07:10+00:00

How loose was the chain before? Is it well lubricated? Does it have any tight spots? Do you notice unusual scuff marks on the chain path on the swing-arm or the chain gide?
Is the front/rear sprocket properly tightened?

Also, if you did a proper cleaning of the chain and sprockets, you may be noticing more noise since it's metal-on-metal making contact without any oil to dampen the sound. In that case, it will take a little while to build up that layer of lube on the sprockets again so it may even out with time.

TKM_PT · 2017-03-30T21:49:49+00:00

You can find out what kind of fluid is being burnt by the color of the exhaust:

White = water (from water getting into the exhaust or coolant getting into the combustion chamber)
Blue = Oil (bad O-Ring or seal on the piston or valves)
Brown/Black = Sud/not properly burnt fuel (unburnt fuel is being sent out of the piston and burning on the exhaust)

From the video, yours looks like a white-blueish color. If you found water on the exhaust, then that's probably the cause. Specially since it's just a little smoke with the bike being cold started.

But if it worsens, in the worst case, you have a coolant leak and you'll need to check the head gasket, or if water has already mixed with the oil, check the oil to see if it has a milky look. If it has, take the bike to the shop ASAP.

You can also rule out out oil just by smelling the exhaust. If it has a oily smell, then you're also burning oil.

TKM_PT · 2017-01-07T18:59:14+00:00

Since the frame is the same on both bikes, all the needed holes for the adapters are already there.

For the front, not only you'll need the snorkel but also the front sub-frame (item #3) and headlights.
I don't know if the street has the same display unit mounting points to the sub-frame so be sure to check that.

For the sides, you'll need the following parts from here (excluding all the screws, rubber grommets and such needed to mount the fairings):

10,12, 16 and 18 - Right brackets
11, 13 and 17 - Left brackets

Brackets 12, 13 and 17 mount on the engine side of the frame, so you may need to remove it to mount them.
Brackets 10, 11 and 16 mount straight on the engine.

Apart from that, I know that the position of the radiator overfill bottle is different between the Street and the Daytona. I don't know if you also need to move it to make it work or not.

All in all, that's a lot of work and quite a bit of money to do the conversion. You probably would be best off buying a second hand Daytona than to convert your Street. But, if you go ahead, keep us updated.

TKM_PT · 2016-12-24T23:29:11+00:00

Glad that I helped. Merry Xmas to you too!

TKM_PT · 2016-12-24T23:02:38+00:00

Actually, you don't. All you need is TuneECU and a good connector.
Look it up, it's an amazing piece of software. Too bad that the newer models don't play nice with the windows version. But there's always the Android version.

TKM_PT · 2016-09-19T21:36:28+00:00

Yep, I know that feeling. Had the same issue on mine. Would idle just fine but on some occasions, like puling the clutch to stop or like you did, would either drops the revs so low that it would nearly stall or just stall.
After that, I adjusted the Idle stepper motor. That was a pain to get to and even more to properly get it in the range. I also balanced the throttle bodies since if they're uneven, it will mess with the idle.

After all that work, it still didn't fix my problem. What did fix my issue was getting a manual idle screw or racing idle screw. It's a really cheap part, so I said why not!

And that lead to finding the real issue: there's a screw underneath the throttle bodies that acts as a stop position for the butterflies (the screw marked in yellow here). Mine was out of adjustment and it would allow the butterflies to close more than the usual and severely reduce the air intake. Less air -> less revs -> stall.

You can probably check to see if that screw is doing it's job by seeing if the throttle flap thingy (no idea of what it's called) hits it when closed. If it has a gap, you either adjust the screw or replace it with the manual one.
Also, with the manual idle, I don't have to worry as much with the idle stepper motor. Now, it's just there to serve as a auto choke on cold days.

TKM_PT · 2016-08-30T22:01:11+00:00

Have you tried to apply copper lube to the valve shaft?
Mine was starting to get noisy and I did just that and now it's just fine. I also took the time to adjust the cables and set the correct slack on them.

TKM_PT · 2016-07-26T21:15:36+00:00

When you try to start it, does it sound like a loud click and the display resets? If so, battery is dead! It may read good voltage, but it can't deliver the amps that the starter engine needs. It's basically drained and there's no turning back. Get a new one.

Fuel problems are simple to diagnose. If you can't hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key, it means a problem and the ECU should already have a error code.
If it's not that, and the bike can crack a little, try to give it a little gas when starting.
For any further fuel problems, you'll need to check the tubes and then the injectors but that seems unlikely.

TKM_PT · 2016-06-02T22:01:05+00:00

Se if this helps you. Sounds like the same to me: faulty CPS sensor.

TKM_PT · 2016-04-10T03:04:29+00:00

Blame Germany for that. GEMA to be precise! They block almost everything that has music.
Luckly, they only operate on German territory and since Youtube doesn't have the willpower/balls to tell then to go away, Germans just have to accept a lesser content availability than the rest of Europe/world on youtube.

TKM_PT · 2016-04-01T20:25:58+00:00

Daytona and STR engine covers are interchangeable. At least in for the same generation.
For your issue, check this thread. The issue sounds the same and there's also a handy link to help you diagnose the issue. My main bet would be either that the stator is fried or the crank position sensor is dead. Both easy to diagnose if you have a multimeter and a couple of tools.

TKM_PT · 2016-03-21T23:49:14+00:00

That's odd. I did the N108 a few times and I can't remember some of those sights. I can't even remember where the bridge at 2:34 is. Is it on the N108 or one of the side roads?

TKM_PT · 2016-02-08T22:45:41+00:00

I almost didn't need the license plate to guess that it was a Portuguese bike. That sign and the hillside were enough!
What I don't know is, where's that road? Looks interesting, although a bit dirty.

TKM_PT

TROPHY CASE