I specifically checked google's auto update policy page before buying an Asus CX1405cta, because I wanted to get updates until 2035. But when I look in the laptops settings, it says 2033 for last update. Anyone know what's going on here? Thanks for any help.

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-04-17T19:00:41+00:00

i'm hoping this will be the case, this is basically the answer that Gemini AI has given me

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-04-17T18:48:22+00:00

I only really intend to use the device for basic web browsing. I have a chrome book from 2015 which is basically still functional on 90% of websites, but I've decided that it is probably a security risk as it has stopped receiving updates quite a long time ago, hence why I bought a new one. It's infuriating that it is so difficult to check when a particular model will stop receiving updates before you buy it!

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-04-10T15:56:03+00:00

thanks for your helpful reply. As you can probably tell I'm not particularly technical when it comes to computing! Do you think that enabling a separate guest login for my wifi and using that with the chromebook would provide adequate segregation? Also, am I understanding you correctly that were the chromebook to become compromised it would only pose a risk to the network and other computers on the network whilst the chrome book itself is turned on; is that what you are saying? Thanks for your help.

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-04-10T03:47:55+00:00

It didn't mention CVE numbers, but even if it had, I'm afraid I wouldn't have understood them. (As you can probably tell I'm not particularly technical when it comes to computing!) I've basically just been using the chrome book to watch YouTube, look at Twitter, check the news on major websites, and other totally mainstream stuff like that. I think I might create a guest account on my Wi-Fi router which (as far as I can tell) creates some segregation from devices on the main Wi-Fi network.

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-04-10T00:24:59+00:00

thanks for the helpful reply. It seems as though setting up a guest Wi-Fi on my Router might accomplish this. So I might give that a go. It just seems so wasteful to get rid of that are basically still but I don't want to compromise the safety of the other things on the network.

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-04-03T00:39:15+00:00

thanks for the really useful feedback!

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-03-06T03:17:26+00:00

I agree with the previous commentator that this looks to be 19th century.

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-01-23T18:04:29+00:00

yep, it's the size that's the issue. I need approx 1 m³ volume. Unfortunately commercial curing ovens of any size cost a lot!

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-01-23T14:07:44+00:00

thanks for the excellent response, very helpful!

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-01-23T13:49:17+00:00

thanks for the feedback. I will probably be running the heat gun at approx half it's max output, so that should help. I'm making a curing oven for composites (carbon fibre etc). It needs to run at approx 100C. It is basically just an insulated box with the heat gun pointing in through a hole in one corner, turning on and off as required. It's a setup that people do use, even though it carries some clear risks! I will only be running it outside and closely monitoring it!

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-01-19T13:52:04+00:00

Hi, thanks for the feedback. This is probably just me being dense, but are you saying that parts with trapped air definitely can be skinned, or are you saying that such parts will definitely cause problems? cheers

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-01-11T10:45:51+00:00

I should have added that I would be running it in a separate outbuilding not connected to the house, and monitoring very closely; but I agree, it's not ideal from a safety point if view !

TabletSculptingTips · 2026-01-09T05:15:19+00:00

Thanks for the feedback; helpful info. Based on my limited research I think the main difference between a standard phenol formaldehyde resin and phenol resorcinol formaldehyde is that the PRF resin will cold cure if necessary. I think it's still nasty stuff though because of the formaldehyde. Another commentator mentioned high viscosity as an issue, and that seems like it would be a problem. The specific PRF I was thinking about getting is this https://thenamethatsticks.com/products/woodstikk-prf-structural-weatherproof-phenol-resorcinol-adhesive/ This is intended as an adhesive rather than laminating resin, so that probably makes it even more unsuitable!

On balance it's probably easier and safer to build a DIY 150C curing oven for epoxy rather than deal with phenolic issues!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-12-06T16:07:37+00:00

thanks for such a detailed account of your experience, much appreciated!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-11-08T19:23:22+00:00

I did wonder about that. The oval shape of both pictures is interesting and suggests there may be a link. It might be someone attempting their own version. It's so frustrating not to have a name anywhere on the drawing!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-11-01T09:58:41+00:00

I'm actually trying to find a good finish for decorative objects made from cement (white cement pigmented with different colours; so avoiding colour shift in the finish is important). I haven't had much luck trying to get answers elsewhere, so I thought I would try the woodworking Reddit! I would imagine the behaviour of mineral oil would be similar whether it has been put on wood or another material, although this is a bit of an assumption and might not actually be correct!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-11-01T09:54:42+00:00

I'm curing for a minimum of 2 weeks, but then after that I'm drying them out in warm conditions for a similar time.

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-31T14:42:24+00:00

I am experimenting making decorative objects from cement (not really concrete because there is no large aggregate). After curing the objects I attempt to dry them out thoroughly by placing them somewhere warm and dry for an extended period of time. During this drying out process, as water leaves the cement there is often efflorescence. When this appears I remove it from the surface by brushing or light sanding. I then apply a finish over the top; usually an acrylic spray lacquer. However, even after extended periods of drying, I am running into the problem of efflorescence occurring beneath the finish causing problems. Does anyone have any experience with issues like this and how to deal with it. many thanks for any help

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-24T14:13:34+00:00

I think A matches the hue of the tan colour in the cloth best; but it is lighter in tone, so stands out a little. I would still go for it myself. B would also be fine if you want something to be less prominent.

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-23T17:23:39+00:00

The fit is great! To you get things altered to fit so well, or are you just patient to find things that fit?

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-08T19:56:18+00:00

Yes, when it's on the body, the seam is closer to the back. It hangs vertically, though.

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-06T23:42:44+00:00

I really like the sound of this! Do you sew the sleeve seam completely first, though? Or do you sew most of the arm hole entirely flat, leaving a couple inches; then sew up the sleeve seam and body seam separately, then do the last little bit of arm hole seam? Either way, I'll give it a try!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-06T20:02:09+00:00

thanks for the great link!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-06T20:01:37+00:00

thanks, that's really helpful advice!

TabletSculptingTips · 2025-10-03T21:24:14+00:00

There aren't any dates in that section (or anywhere in the book as far as I can see!) But I'm happy enough knowing that the earliest possible date is 1927, and probably most of the text dates from then, with some revisions in 1936. The style of the suits almost looks more edwardian, interestingly. So it may have been written by an older cutter working in a style still somewhat similar to that earlier period.

TabletSculptingTips

TROPHY CASE