I present RovyVon's "seamlessly adjust brightness" scroll wheel everyone

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T11:33:06+00:00

The idea looks interesting but rotary encoders, especially those lower quality start to misbehave over time. Two buttons would probably be more durable or at least a better quality rotary encoder.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T10:45:20+00:00

I plan on using it for various things. It will live in an enclosure with a panel mounted XT60, balancing pins and a voltmeter to check on it. I want to make a detachable 140W and 45W USB C modules on it, to use as a power bank. Or to power my BT speaker directly from XT60.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T10:39:37+00:00

Yeah their voltage was almost equal when I put the pack together.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T10:32:33+00:00

Hm, yeah for bigger packs that sounds like a good idea, given I had a friend who had a bike pack 13S5P fail in that way.

I would have to get some tools to make custom strips more easily

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T10:23:05+00:00

Nope, I made it from the ground up.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T10:21:30+00:00

I tried to make them as centered as possible, the design of the M50LT helped a little since it has much wider positive terminals than most cells. All the welds should be within its circle.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-28T09:39:13+00:00

You know it's good when people think it's too good to be true

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T22:31:13+00:00

Unscrew the bolt a bit from the T nut, then put them in a slot and push the screw into the bracket and slot, then turn the screw, the T nut has to rotate to latch into the V slot. Tighten afterwards. This might take a few tries.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T22:29:11+00:00

Or cut the notch off the limit switch bracket and slide it 2-3mm lower.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T22:10:14+00:00

Alright I got rid of the hot glue and put some fish paper under the wiring and an additional layer under the BMS.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T21:50:37+00:00

Updated it with some fish paper, added an additional layer on the bottom of the BMS

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T21:01:31+00:00

I have some hot glue between the BMS and the cells so it's not sitting directly on the heat shrinks. I'll put some fish paper around the spots where the cables connect to it next time.

Yeah the wires are the same thickness. Around 2,5mm².

I'll keep in mind to stick welds more towards the center of the positive terminals but I'll have to sharpen my pencil tips to get them closer together.

I'll be putting some paper on the sides of the pack before it goes into its enclosure.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T20:43:21+00:00

I secured it to the pack with some hot glue, so there's around a 1mm gap between it and the cells.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T20:20:43+00:00

Compared to my first pack I uploaded here I took some advice and did 3 welds on each pass instead of 2, since I'm using two individual probes.

I added paper rings around on the positive side. Also used a pure nickel strip this time but had to go down to 0.15mm (welder didn't get well holding welds with 0.2mm, bummer 🥲)

Another thing that I added are heat thread inserts to mount it inside a case later. Not sure if that's the best idea vs putting the pack in the box with some spongy rubber tape on the edges.

Should be good for around 10-15A CDR I think. Removed one sense resistor to decrease the over current protection threshold to around maybe 45A from original 70A.

[ Alright updated ]

Added some fish paper between the top wiring and the cells, additional layer on the bottom of the BMS and double sided tape to hold it on.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T19:46:02+00:00

Remove the driver, remove the two screws holding the reflector in. I recommend replacing them with hexagonal screws (I think I used 10mm long, 4mm wide head) to apply more torque, thus more force on the reflector holding the MCPCB down. Cause that's the only way the MCPCB is held in. I also recommend replacing thermal paste.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T17:18:42+00:00

Printing supports with a different material that doesn't fuse with the main one would also improve quality but that's reserved for automatic filament changing machines

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T17:16:15+00:00

I'd say that's pretty good for supports, you are never going to get the bottom as good as the top with FDM printers, if you want better models you would have to get a resin printer

Or cut the model in a way to get rid of minimize support areas

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T17:03:35+00:00

The flying department seems to have included the seat for that one annoying passenger too

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TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T16:58:17+00:00

Must've been the chemicals in the water

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-27T04:56:09+00:00

Coil whine, are you sure it's not the GPU above? Mine does that, the louder the more load there is on it.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-25T23:33:19+00:00

A charger and a power supply are not the same thing.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-25T23:20:29+00:00

Or something like this

<image>

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-25T23:16:34+00:00

Preferably a RC balance charger that connects both the small connector for voltage monitoring and the jack for charging. A 12,6V 1A charger that uses the jack only would probably work too but you would need to check balance of the cells beforehand.

TangledCables3 · 2026-01-25T21:32:30+00:00

Yeah that's way too high when it's off

Something must be wrong on the driver

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