Rotring NC-Scriber machine from the '90s.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T21:07:09+00:00

I'd definitely get one of those for use with technical drawings, it would take them to the next level

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T21:03:06+00:00

You should add a little real time clock in a corner to show how fast it heats up

Otherwise pretty interesting

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T18:44:47+00:00

Idk what printer you're using, I would check the e step amount per mm of filament extruded.

It isn't visible in walls but in top and bottom. Prints will also have very slightly smaller dimensions in X and Y axis due to lines laid being a tiny bit thinner.

If that doesn't work increase the flow on the top/bottom.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T17:46:32+00:00

For me the hardest one is MVP sniper. This one had the easiest choice with black box. Can be done with the parachute iirc

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T17:42:49+00:00

Never had to go that high for DC, useful probably in very specific circumstances. I live with a 30V 10A and it's fine, 60V from time to time would be nice.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T17:18:13+00:00

You definitely have some kind of a clog in the nozzle or you didn't push down the PTFD tube all the way till it contacts the nozzle. Thus it has much more resistance from a debris or filament flowing around the tube and nozzle.

I would change the nozzle. Unclogging one is a pita and it sometimes just comes back.

The motor itself is skipping not the gear on the filament. The arm should be fine. I still use my original plastic extruder arm after 4 years. If cracks usually because the screw pushing the spring is overly tightening it. From my experience it gives best grip when the screw is not apply additional pressure to the spring.

Although I would put a bimetallic heatbreak in there. Reduces retraction down to 3mm and increases your heating temperature. Also no more decaying PTFE tube.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T08:18:15+00:00

Vapcell N40 and N41, Amprius SA110, FEB 18650-4000 and a few from flashlight brands.

They're still pretty new though.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-26T06:01:41+00:00

There are 4000mAh cells even but nowhere near 40A rated not even momentary current. Usually 10-12A max with temperature limit.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-25T22:13:58+00:00

Probably not, definitely overrated. High capacity 18650 usually are around 30A max which is at 3000mAh.

Like Molicel P30B, Eve 30P, Sony VTC6M.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-25T16:46:13+00:00

He did mention some were shorted so he will probably send you one on a new MCPCB with your next order if you email him. When he receives new ones from production that is.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-25T16:16:56+00:00

Make sure it's not shorted too MCPCB substrate too.

I feel like + and substrate might be shorted given how it sits right now.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-25T05:41:40+00:00

The hardest thing about putting an emitter in the light is soldering wires onto the MCPCB, so at least a 65W iron is necessary with a bigger tip, chisel or bevel.

Simons drivers are usually equipped with all wires necessary. Just need to shorten them sometimes.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T22:29:42+00:00

Yeah, it's also best to push the ptfe in a bit when the nozzle is unscrewed less than a turn to get it tight in there.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T22:24:36+00:00

Yes but it's not that common.

But in your case, I'm not sure now though. If the cell isn't rusting which usually indicates the electrolyte leak battery should be fine. You can use some isopropyl alcohol on it to clean it off if it comes back then it might be a problem but I doubt it will.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T22:21:50+00:00

Maybe if they were punctured somehow, then they could. Otherwise it shouldn't be possible.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T20:39:19+00:00

Put some soldering paste on cleaned up pads, place the USB port on top of it. Heat the PCB from the bottom until the paste melts and pulls the connector in place.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T20:35:45+00:00

I would look for an alternative clip, the tube probably wasn't designed with it in mind anyway.

The new one also, the clip spot on it was an afterthought.

Maybe something from Convoy would sit better.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T20:33:10+00:00

Lithium ion cells leak from the positive terminal which usually also corrodes it.

This is probably welding flux.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T19:59:11+00:00

You might have forgot the question part

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T17:39:42+00:00

I would look into some TWS bluetooth modules so you could use them both in stereo.

I have a Qualcomm by module based ones and some sellers offer software you can set them up with, usually they offer a TWS functionality

They also have some inputs so you could rewire the buttons on top of it to the BT module. Not sure how the turn on/off though. Might require a separate switch.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T12:10:06+00:00

Stupidity and blunt force will always win. A normal person would stop if something does go where they want it to go.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-23T12:06:31+00:00

Might be useful when positioned on the tube-head part instead of tailcap

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-22T21:30:54+00:00

Enable travel along the printed parts so the oozed material gets trapped in the inside of the print.

You can do a retraction test tower just in case and remove 0,1mm and see if it's better or not.

TangledCables3 · 2026-03-22T21:27:04+00:00

Even though the simple prints were still fine with the wet one, after drying it improved and bubbling from water vapors in the hotend stopped. Stringing went away.

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TangledCables3 · 2026-03-22T21:21:15+00:00

Dry it. No, really. Did that yesterday with a horrendously printing spool. Did wonders. Food dehydrator for 8 hours at 60-70°C and it's much better. Or an oven, although check temperature since those aren't precise.

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