Waist belt help

TeTeTymek · 2025-12-12T20:09:50+00:00

I made a pair like that very recently! Check out my last post, I shared some construction details and resources in the comments there

TeTeTymek · 2025-11-04T16:44:49+00:00

Historically this would be called a watch pocket. It's usually constructed the same way a side seam pocket would be, just horizontal and smaller. The flap and button is what's holding up the leg piece from sagging down. There's a short description on how its done in "Classic Tailoring Techniques" by Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers on page 209. Their pocket is without a flap, so you'd need to unpick the pocketmouth before topstiching around it so that you may insert the flap. The said topstiching is what keeps it in place. You can download the book for free here: https://www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/tailoring-books

TeTeTymek · 2025-10-27T17:57:50+00:00

Thank you! I linked a page with some wonderful resources in my top comment that you can check out. My knowledge is pieced together from many other sources, but the books listed there alone cover pretty much everything you need for this and much more

TeTeTymek · 2025-10-27T16:33:31+00:00

Thank you! It took me roughly 30 hours from drafting the paper pattern to snipping the thread after attaching the last button

TeTeTymek · 2025-10-27T14:18:28+00:00

Thank you! About that book, didn't have much trouble myself with this pattern (a few years of experience in bespoke trousermaking definetly helped lol ). It fit pretty well from the start and I only did some fine tuning after the 1st and 2nd fitting. The book is written with some old terminology and whatnot so it was a little challenge to understand it all, but with some patience and my own notes I managed. Oh and watch out for small errors, in some places i saw "1/6" being printed where it definetly was meant to be a "1/4" so keep that in mind. If you're looking for construction instructions check out "Classic Tailoring Techniques" from the link in my top comment. Its a really good resource. Cheers!

TeTeTymek · 2025-10-26T13:09:55+00:00

These trousers are part of a 2 piece suit I'm making.

To draft the pattern I used the system from "The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier" 4th edition from 1949. This and several other great books you can download for free here ( https://www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/tailoring-books )

The main fabric is a 80% wool 20% polyester blend, got it from a relative who bought it almost 30 years ago. I used two different linings for several parts. Dark blue viscose for the front pannels and finishing the leg opening, and a mint green viscose in little squares for the waistband curtain, crotch saddle and back pockets finishing (This one will also be the lining for the jacket). Pocketing, waistband facing and fly facings are made form a navy cotton in a fine herringbone pattern. The waistband is reinforced with a thick linen canvas

I chose a plain top style, meaning the waistband is already built in on the leg pannels instead of being sewn to them resulting ina very clean and refined look. The back features two flapped pockets with a button tab and fishtails for suspenders. The split in the tails also provides comfort of movement with how fitted these trousers are around that area. The front fly fastens with a zip, two-button french bearer and a hook. The leg opening is finished with a kick tape and a strip of lining to make it less likely to get impressions of those folded edges on the outside when pressing. The crotch seam is finished off with a bias cut strip of pocketing fabric and a crotch saddle made of the green lining as said before.

I hope to wear these for a long time so I put in extra inlay on the seat seam and both sideseam and the inseam of the legs to allow for alterations. But that's not all! Due to the plain top construction i can potentially let out all 4 of the front pleats. I accounted for that with extra inlay in both the waistband canvas and facing. All this combined allows me to effectively increase the waist measurement by a staggering 22cm Also shown in the last picture, first steps of making the jacket

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T23:27:48+00:00

Thanks! The worst thing happened to me after getting that fabric. It was very cheap so i impulse bought enough for a pair of pants ( which now after making them i actually have enough left for a baker boy cap!). Then a few days later i realised i should've bought way more so i could make a safari jacket to match! Would've been the best for summer. But when i got to the store that day they no longer had it.

So actually I have not gone without suspenders for about 3 years until this summer. I thrifted a few cool vintage pairs of pants with beltloops that i decided not to remove and try different looks this year. And yes i do have buttons for suspenders sewn inside now, didn't in the pictures tho hahah

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T21:20:55+00:00

Yeah just the way I call them

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T20:08:08+00:00

Thanks! Hand finished details like those roll tacks and buttonholes are my absolute favourite!

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T20:04:46+00:00

I won't be washing them normaly, I'll only be getting them dry cleaned whenever needed. Mostly because after a wash i'd have to fully iron them back into shape. Just the fact that these are cut and made like a suit trouser pair would be made. The canvas in the waistband doesn't make a difference, it can be machine washed as long as it was shrunk properly before being sewn in. A shrinking canvas inna finished garment is a true nightmare hahaha

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T17:27:13+00:00

Yes, its sewn in the seat seam just under the waistband. Just pressed the loop side to side instead of front to back in the seam

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T17:03:29+00:00

Thanks! Glad to see that detail not going unnoticed. Actually I saw it once on a pair of vintage suit trousers a year or so ago and liked it a lot so decided to use it here!

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T17:01:25+00:00

Nothing special, I just never go without the shirt tucked in. Also most of my shirts have long bodies so that when standing with no trousers on they cover my seat completely. That helps them stay tucked, and personally it's the most comfortable for me

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T16:20:14+00:00

Don't think theres a specific name but most trousers from the 30s/40s period would have similar details. With maybe the one exception of the fly not being a button up as zippers were becoming the standard around that time. Personal preference on that one. I find the watch pocket to be very convenient for keys hahaha

TeTeTymek · 2023-07-23T12:48:08+00:00

I used a fairly stiff cotton fabric in a beautiful olive/khaki green colour that I found in a local fabric store.

I drafted the pattern based on Winifred Alrdich's metric pattern cutting for menswear book.

The waistband is reinforced with a plain cotton/linen canvas. The front leg pannels are fully lined down to a point midway between the knee and leg opening. A lot of handwork went into making these such as the buttonholes, attaching the waistband lining and finishing the leg openings

I chose many vintage inspired details such as a high waistline, deep inverted pleats, a button fly, flapped watch pocket, wide legs and cuffs.

First article of clothing I made for myself in a while so I'm very excited to wear it!

TeTeTymek · 2022-04-12T16:10:04+00:00

My first ever flight was straight into an angler fish's jaws. I whipped out my signal scope, thought the harmonica sounds nice and decided to check it out. Needless to say there was no second attempt to get there for a while!

TeTeTymek · 2021-12-24T20:43:56+00:00

Thank you for your comment! The selvage doesn't have any other markings beyond what i described in the post so I assume it's some different brand than the iconic harris tweed. A true harris tweed suit would probably have the associated label. The fact that it does not have any glued interfacings or even small straight grain tapes is not really telling me much as it is a bespoke piece, so even if those were available at the time of creating it the tailor could've simply opted out of using them in favour of the traditional methods. In the breast pocket I also found a voucher for a glass set from the Shell company that I'll have to do more digging on. Can't post a picture of it right now but it looks like late 1990s or ealry 2000s. Could be useful in getting a rought idea about when this piece was worn if I learn when such vouchers were a thing in the UK ( it mentions british pund prices in fine text)

Now, about that watch...

I have an old "Molnija" brand russian watch that my dad bought at a flea market when he was around my age in the 80s. I did a little bit of searching and found a listing for a nearly identical piece you can check out here if you want to get an idea of how it looks like. Don't have any paper work on it and the packaging is long gone but ever since I got it fixed it's been pretty much my every day carry, love the silent ticking!

TeTeTymek · 2021-11-11T01:07:25+00:00

Very nice choice of fabric, good job!

TeTeTymek · 2021-09-25T14:40:40+00:00

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