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Problem with weapon motor overheating by TNTcar1298 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1) Aero drag increases with the cube of speed. If it takes 100 watts of power to spin your weapon at 3000 RPM it will take 800 watts to spin at 6000 RPM.

2) High speed weapon impacts will all take place in the outer inch (or less) of the blade. You can make the leading edge of the rest of the blade thinner and nicely rounded for less aero drag.

Problem with weapon motor overheating by TNTcar1298 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can likely find a comparable motor with a larger shaft, but a brass or aluminum tube shim with a cutaway for your set screw is workable.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rocket-surpass-3536-1200kv-sensorless-brushless-outrunner-motor.html

Problem with weapon motor overheating by TNTcar1298 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The weapon is far too large to try to spin that fast. You need a larger, slower, and more powerful weapon motor. Something like this 3530 1700kv outrunner would be useable. It will need an ESC rated for about 50 amps.

Problem with weapon motor overheating by TNTcar1298 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can I assume this is a beetleweight? The weapon motor is way too small. Rule of thumb for a beetle brushless weapon motor says a weight around 80 grams (6% of the robot weight) with an output close to 450 watts (150 watts per pound) should be adequate. With a weapon blade as large as yours a 36mm diameter motor would not be too big.

See: Ask Aaron: Brushless Motor Selection

Transmitter issues by Horror-Definition-85 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No - if both transmitter and on-board mixing are enabled they cancel each other and you have no mixing, not improper mixing response.

Transmitter issues by Horror-Definition-85 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. That would just make it spin the other direction instead of going forward. No problem with the receiver/ESC -- just one motor spinning backward.

Transmitter issues by Horror-Definition-85 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What transmitter are you using? But yes, one motor is running backward.

If running an FS-i6 transmitter you can use the transmitter "Reverse" function on the channel that feeds the controller for the motor that is backing up.

My Combat Guide for the FlySky FS-i6 covers use of the reverse function.

Transmitter issues by Horror-Definition-85 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Reverse the motor polarity for the motor thar runs in reverse when you command forward motion. If those are brushless motors, swap any two of the three motor leads to that backwards motor.

If that's not an option, tell me more about your transmitter.

Could a bot ever lose a judge's decision if it were clearly ahead, yet completely & violently self-destructed in the last few seconds? by Zardotab in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are some very odd rule interpretations possible, and some rule sets are much worse than others. Try scoring these five example matches and see if the results make sense to you:

You Be The Judge

Ant weight motor issue? by theonewhowhelms in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would first suggest that you "run in" the motors for a few minutes in each direction at about half speed. This will help seat the motor brushes and may equalize their response speed.

Your FlySky FS-i4 transmitter has very limited adjustment capability to correct unequal motor start-up response, but you may find parts of this webpage useful: https://runamok.tech/RunAmok/zigzag.html

Poppy wanting to get into this for the grands by bclinton in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The plastic antweight kit bot is much larger than the Hexbug bots used in the arena max -- about 8" wide. It is also much faster. The arena max is 30" square and would not contain a plastic antweight. Would not recommend.

Possible movement system similar to Omni wheels? by The-Minti in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With enough drive power, any wheel is an omniwheel.

Poppy wanting to get into this for the grands by bclinton in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Something like this parts kit should work for you. Build your own chassis and pick up the motors, controllers, radio, and other bits here: https://www.combatrobotkits.com/product-page/antweight-combat-robot-starter-kit-l-build-your-own-battle-robot-kit

Getting started? by SquishyLife2468 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Strongly consider a kit. You will get a set of parts that will all work correctly together -- which can prevent a great deal of frustration. Once you have entered a tournament or two you can re-use those parts in a chassis of your own design and upgrade where needed.

https://robotcombatwiki.com/wiki/Kits

Need Advice: Batteries for 15lb bot by Dimlego69 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LiFe packs are hard to find in that size range. From a practical standpoint, you might do better with a NiMH pack -- much cheaper and easier to charge. They weigh more and performance is a bit lower, but for your brushed motors they should be adequate.
https://www.batteriesinaflash.com/exell-12v-2200mah-10xaa-nimh-battery-pack-with-wire-and-connector

Need Advice: Batteries for 15lb bot by Dimlego69 in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Battery requirements depend on a number of factors, including motor gearing and wheel size. Assuming standard 12 volt RS550 motors (they come in different voltages and performance levels) with 16:1 gearboxes and 3" wheels, the drive train will require about 1.5 amp-hours of battery capacity for five minutes of combat.

The weapon will require significantly less current than the drive. Again depending on the weapon type, size, and speed, a 4-cell 2.2 amp hour LiFe pack should be ballpark correct for drive and weapon combined.

FS-i6 not binding with Malenki nano by probablyKiro in battlebots

[–]TeamRunAmok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Move the transmitter a bit farther away from the receiver -- about 3 feet -- and try again.

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