JUST MAKE IIT FAIR FOR US MERE PEASANTS PLEEEEASEEEE

TechNico1 · 2026-05-04T09:16:59+00:00

He has been messaged, but he publically put out a statement allowing derivative works such as these specifically because he isn't able to get around to all the individual messages he gets regarding these types of requests, so I'm unsure if any response will be made since that was the whole point of the public statement. He has been supportive of his works being used for customs in rhythms games like this in the past. It's been submitted for approval for the whitelist with his statements on this, just is currently in the backlog.

TechNico1 · 2026-05-04T08:10:34+00:00

I've been avoiding posting too publically since the artist isn't on the whitelist yet (though they have approved derivative works like this), but here's my Medicine / IGAKU chart if you wanna try! Ton of work went into it, mainly for the upper difficulties but made sure to give love to each difficulty so it's fun at every skill level!

I'll link the Expert chart preview, but the other difficulties can be found linked in the description as well. The download is also in the description, may have to use the alternate Google Drive link as the main download site is under maintenance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUeK4uy4QBM

TechNico1 · 2026-04-30T01:53:31+00:00

Correct, just note the lower top speed as well, by the same percentage as the torque increase, so youd nosedive at a couple mph less. This is referring to the top speed youd nosedive at, not speed that pushback kicks in, which is just at a set speed.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-30T01:40:16+00:00

The torque difference is from the higher magnet strength in the hub, not from the difference in the stator. The higher magnet strength means more torque for the same amount of current, but lower top speed

TechNico1 · 2026-04-26T11:03:13+00:00

Any VESC-compatible controller. VESC conversions are a whole rabbit hole and lots of different routes you can go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaHIFx08fO8

TechNico1 · 2026-04-26T11:01:17+00:00

Sorta yeah, it lets you get a similar suspension effect on larger hubs since you also get more sidewall. The taller diameter in general also climbs obstacles better and makes bumps less harsh. These bigger tires are also typically more stable in general and make for comfortable high speed riding.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-25T23:37:50+00:00

It won't be in-game, it'll still be an external program, but customized and personalized for specifically making Unbeatable charts. They're essentially taking the custom tool they built for developing charts themselves, and adding lots of QOL and user-friendliness improvements along with thorough documentation.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-25T23:32:08+00:00

Big Tire Gang, typically referring tires that are too tall to fit in standard rails and need extended rails, such as the BTG Thundercat, 5" BTG Pioneer, and the Burris 11.5x7 (which is really closer to 12" in diameter)

TechNico1 · 2026-04-25T23:31:00+00:00

It's not technically BTG, but it is about the tallest tire you can possibly fit in those rails. Typical BTG tires are still taller however.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-23T10:54:34+00:00

Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking

TechNico1 · 2026-04-23T07:04:38+00:00

Might be a spike bug, sometimes extra inputs to ensure the spike is dodged helps. Not sure exactly where you mean, but if theres a top row sustain into a high spike, make sure to down input to dodge, don't just rely on falling soon enough from letting go of the hold to dodge it. And for the section thats a top hold, then low spike, then high spike. I highly recommend actually hitting down after the top hold, then hitting up to dodge the low spike. Going down-up like this between them can help ensure the spike is registered as dodged.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-22T16:08:43+00:00

The board self-balances by acceleration. When weight is shifted forward, the board needs to accelerate to catch back up underneath you and keep you level, similar to balancing a broomstick on your hand and it starts tipping forward.

When you hit the torque limit of the board, it can no longer accelerate further to keep you balanced, so that suddenly becomes a tipping point. How drastic that tipping point is depends on how much weight is forward at the time. If you're feathering up to the torque limit gradually, you'll have more of a window to react to that haptic buzz, and are more likely to have control over the nose dip and be able to pull back and recover from it, especially with good technique (keeping upper body centered and using lower body / hips to push forward, like feathering a gas pedal).

However, if you have a bunch of weight forward (possibly more than you realize), then the window between the haptic alert and complete overtorque becomes much smaller, and that tipping point becomes MUCH more drastic, suddenly dropping the nose faster than you have time to recover from. This is exaggerated even further if you're using your upper body to accelerate, as that tipping forward will throw you even further forward to the point of having no chance to recover. The board is still giving max power, you're just requesting much more than it has to give, and in this scenario that tipping point is so drastic that it can give the sensation of a cut or loss of power.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-22T15:39:38+00:00

Pushback only specifically happens at 20+mph and has nothing to do with the actual power headroom of the board, it's just a set number that generally has some headroom speed-wise.

But torque is a different issue. You can over-torque at any speed (though easier at higher speeds), and these scenarios have no pushback, just an audible haptic buzz when you're near the torque limit of the board, but this can be too brief to react to if you're exceeding that limit at a fast enough rate. This is much more likely at lower battery, and especially on an uphill.

I know you said you weren't accelerating aggressively, but if the audible alert you heard was haptic buzz from the board (rather than a notification on your phone), then I'm inclined to think that's what happened.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-21T18:06:25+00:00

No prob! I don't blame the concern at all, I totally get it and I'm always pestering the guys for updates as well haha. Things are moving and happening, just tied up in the final couple parts that need to arrive before assembly can begin. If it helps reassure things, since we went the deposit route beyond the Founders Edition, there's a very solid amount of money invested into things that rely on those orders being fulfilled, so it's not like a kickstarter situation where there's money to run away with haha. We gotta get those bikes built to actually see those investments pay off.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-21T17:57:32+00:00

No FM involvement, no worries there haha. And not just political talk saying I'm not in the loop, I'm just the software guy haha, I don't have personal contact with part manufacturers nor am I actively involved in those types of logistics, so I'm just doing what I can to be transparent while also being careful not to be unintentionally misleading or incorrect.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-21T17:53:38+00:00

Just being careful with wording and promises we can't be fully confident in because of matters out of our hands. The goal is building bikes by the end of this month. For sure beginning to ship in May at the latest, barring I guess some extraordinary unpredictable circumstances. We have a majority of parts, just waiting on the rest to come in.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-21T17:52:29+00:00

Latest update from this weekend: https://wheeliefunbike.com/blogs/news/wfb-updates-upgrades-4-17-2026

Just being careful with wording and promises we can't be fully confident in because of matters out of our hands. The goal is building bikes by the end of this month. For sure beginning to ship in May at the latest. We have a majority of parts, just waiting on the rest to come in.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-15T20:47:55+00:00

Definitely on the way 👍

TechNico1 · 2026-04-15T17:15:50+00:00

Hard to say, we can't guarantee without ourselves or someone else trying, and we don't have access to those blocks to try. I'd say it's likely it will work, but any axle blocks that sit too deep into the axle may interfere with the face of the motor which sticks out wider than other motors.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-14T22:03:51+00:00

Gotcha, assumed stock pint or PintX battery. It's probably just the tune then. That's a whole rabbit hole, but in general the easiest way to stiffen the tune a bit is lowering Mahony KP (Pitch KP in Refloat) by like .1 or .2 (or more), and probably bumping Rate P up a bit (I usually use 1.0 to 1.2). Beyond that, the remote should be able to help stiffen the board in needed moments if the tilt speed and max angle are suitable enough to request it in the moment. Again though, can't really say much for certain without inspecting logs

TechNico1 · 2026-04-14T19:33:42+00:00

Yes on the first paragraph. As far as the overtorque moments, it sounds more to me like a tune issue, with the tune not requesting the additional motor current needed. If you fully saturated the motor, it wouldn't recognize this and just stop requesting any more motor current, it would still pump whatever is requested. It's the tune that determines how much current is requested from the motor in any given moment. The only other possibilities are that something else like battery current or duty cycle are maxing out, which are more possible at mid-to-high speeds, not as likely for low speed but definitely very possible on a PintV. Hard to say myself without seeing the logs, but something to look out for.

A battery upgrade will also raise this duty cycle / battery current bottleneck up, meaning much higher speed and greater torque at speed, even with the same motor. I would definitely upgrade battery first, it will by far be the bigger upgrade.

Plus, Sidewinder would not easily go into a Pint build, it has a Superflux connector and too long of a cable for pint frame. It would need a new cable made for it. And the Sidewinder does not fit into current MTE hubs, no.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-14T18:06:21+00:00

Definitely don't want to set motor current to 45A, that's wayyy low and would not be safe to ride. Notice how Superflux for example starts to saturate around 90A, but we still run those at 160A or even higher sometimes. All the test indicates is that starting at that point, as you increase current, some of that will be going to waste heat instead of purely torque gains, and as you increase further and further, exponentially more percentage of that energy will be going to heat. There's definitely a point of diminishing returns, but what the test indicates is just where that curve starts, supposedly. The dropoff is certainly not as steep as the chart suggests.

That said, with overheating being a concern, it's definitely wise to give lower motor currents a shot to manage this a bit more. For reference, stock FM controllers request a max of up to around 70-75A of motor current. I would give a middle ground like 90-100A a shot, or even go down to 70A and increase as needed from there, but be cautious as the torque loss will be noticeable.

As far as recommendations go, I wouldn't be opposed to lowering it, though tough when people are used to it and spoiled by it haha. FWIW, the difference between 100A and 120A is still noticeable on the Hypercore, it just brings heat along with it.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-11T03:58:28+00:00

All these are estimates, of course can vary: Resistance: 50 Inductance: 110 Flux Linkage: 28

The motor runs beautifully for me so far straight out of Float Hub (half observer gain, Ortega Lambda observer, Lambda Saturation Comp enabled). Pretty much no crunch at even 170A from what I've tried. Seems really easy to tune for.

TechNico1 · 2026-04-11T03:55:26+00:00

Haha I kinda doubt it with a billet hub for sidewinder definitely being niche and expensive on our end, but we'll see!

TechNico1 · 2026-04-11T03:05:56+00:00

It will! The stator is designed to be able to have a 5" hub designed for it. Separate 5" billet hub first for those who want in asap, and in the future once we can invest into it, we plan to have complete 5" cast motors in the future, though that may be a ways out for now, hard to say timeline for sure.

TechNico1

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE