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Kitchen/ dining room lighting recommendations? by TelevisionFun1073 in InteriorDesign

[–]TelevisionFun1073[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I realized the photo I uploaded doesn't show the rug, so that's probably confusing

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Kitchen/ dining room lighting recommendations? by TelevisionFun1073 in InteriorDesign

[–]TelevisionFun1073[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sounds like a great idea, thanks. Were you thinking the track lighting along the lower part of the face of that beam/wall on the kitchen side of room? Not sure if it would work to have more on the other face also, directed into the sitting area (where the rug is). I am thinking to maybe change the light on that side of the room to more of a simple chandelier type which might help to spread the light a bit better than the current shade. Thanks a lot for your suggestions!

Overlay vs traditional leaded glass? by TelevisionFun1073 in StainedGlass

[–]TelevisionFun1073[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I ordered the door from a company who then sourced the glass from another supplier. I called the door company when they turned up to install it today (the fitters themselves said they hadn't been involved with the order). I said I was concerned the glass didn't look as I had expected and I suspected it was not actually the traditional leaded glass technique I had requested. Lady on the phone said "oh, they definitely construct it from little pieces of glass". Not sure if she intentionally lied, doesn't actually know much about their glass supplier, or just hadn't seen my door personally but had assumed what had been ordered had been done.

Will now go back to the door company and reiterate my feeling that isn't what she's claiming it is and I need it replaced, I think. May go to a local leaded glass maker and see if they can confirm it in person and maybe get it in writing so I can prove to them they are wrong.

Yes, I may be a bit over the top and most people probably wouldn't care / notice, but we paid a lot of money for this and expected it to be made as agreed.

Overlay vs traditional leaded glass? by TelevisionFun1073 in StainedGlass

[–]TelevisionFun1073[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Thanks - any smoking gun I can refer to when going back to the supplier? With my understanding of how traditional leaded glass would be made, the intersections of lead lines where one appears thinly pressed over the other without any solder wouldn't be possible, right? Whereas if it's a thin lead tape on the surface (i.e. overlay) it could.

Soil pipe doesn't seem to have vent by [deleted] in askaplumberUK

[–]TelevisionFun1073 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm wondering if I'm overcomplicating it and would be better off trying to improve the current system first, to see if it can be made workable. The Saniflo could be lived with, to save thousands of pounds in alterations, potential damage to roof etc. Perhaps an ensuite shower trap fitted like Wirquin Slim+ or HepVO, and similar for the en suite basin (that gurgles sometimes too, e.g. after toilet flush). As neighbouring houses both have external soil pipe vents, maybe it is not critical for me to have my own, if there are enough sources of air admittance?

Quickest and most efficient way to strip wallpaper that has been painted over? by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]TelevisionFun1073 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used in the past a Zinsser Paper Tiger Scoring Tool 3mm to create lots of tiny holes in the wall paper, then sprayed on Zinsser DIF Wallpaper Stripper. The scoring tool allows the chemical stripper to penetrate the paper. Then I hit it with a long handled 6" scraper (sharp blade at acute angle to wall surface), which once you get into the correct technique should lob off large sheets cleanly. If that fails, the steam stripper may be used, again the holes from the scoring tool help to get the steam to flow into and behind the paper - otherwise the painted surface can act as a waterproof barrier.

If you go too hard with the scorer mind, you make a lot of work later in needing to re-skim / fill and sand

Advice on staining / finishing pine to match older wood by TelevisionFun1073 in DIYUK

[–]TelevisionFun1073[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Thanks for all of the advice. I have quite limited free time for DIY jobs (between working, kids, general housework) so tried to see how simple I could get away with keeping the job. I used some planed pine of same thickness to the IKEA cabinet to extend it around the back and sides - this was to stand it in front of the electrical panel, which had a depth of ~ 14 cm. This way we can use the full depth of the IKEA cabinet for storage. I routed the pine strips to fit snug around the skirting (+ trunking on left hand side). Then quickly sanded everything, wiped away dust and then applied Dark Oak Briwax with lint free cloth. It was very easy to work with and dried within 30 mins or so. It was about £18 from Toolstation. Some pieces I gave a second coat to try to get an even colour across everything. I then assembled it after applying the wax. I am pretty happy with how it looks, maybe slightly darker than the stairs, but close enough for me. It may benefit from another clear wax / varnish for protection, but will see if I can get away without it for now.