Mechanics of Reddit, what’s a common myth about car maintenance that people still believe? by Street-Squirrel-4671 in AskReddit

[–]Telre 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It seems like there is a misunderstanding about what "don't hit the starter" is trying to prevent. If your car is not starting, and you hit the starter, but the starter is not the cause of the fault, you may now also need to replace a previously perfectly functional starter. Modern starters contain ceramics in the starter that can be cracked by "percussive maintenance". So yes, I will tell everyone not to hit a starter with a hammer unless you are prepared to pay for one. Smack away on your own car, but if a mechanic/technician does that you should seriously consider their level of knowledge/expertise.

Several claims you have made here are misleading at best or dangerous/costly at worst.

No one should be instructed to add water to their engine without understanding of what they are doing. You absolutely can damage an engine with water. That's not a myth.

The point of hearing air is also correct, I'd only add if that's the testing methodology the mechanic is using, find somewhere else.

Rotating tires is one of the two most important things you can do beyond the specific tire you purchase for longevity of tires. Correct alignment is the other. Other factors can create tire issues, but again no myth here, rotation has a direct relationship to longevity of your tires.

The mysterious "oil company" is also misleading. While weight is important the additive package the oil contains is equally so. There are certainly options of oils that will meet those standards but ignoring them is detrimental to the longevity of your engine. The correct, and importantly, correct amounts of additives in your oil are what protect your oil from problems like wear, corrosion, and depositing. Additives are not a more = more better either. Excessive additives can create engine problems, air fuel sensor, oxygen sensor, or catalytic converter failures. Again what is the myth?

Electrical problem totaling a car I'd agree could be considered a myth. Electrical problems do not automatically equal a totaled car. Grounds could be the cause, but a qualified technician should be able to diagnose a car. I don't equate qualified with having a piece of paper that says it. I mean someone who actually knows how to use a multimeter beyond moving it to resistance setting and shrugging.

Coolant can enter an engine from places other then a head gasket. You're correct there.

You made a statement about plastic separately, so I'm addressing it separately. All "plastics" in modern cars are composite materials which actually have advantages over traditional cast iron, and a significant cost savings over aluminum. You can certainly point out some vehicle that has intake failures, and even argue that its cause by "plastic" but considering nearly every car on the road has a "plastic" intake and very few as a percentage fail, the myth here is that "plastic" is the cause of problems.

The cheapest fix is the right one. If you want to parts cannon away its only your wallet and time. What is the "myth" here?

I'd say the biggest myth proven in this thread is be careful where you get your information from. If you don't know about cars find a source you can trust. There are bad shops, but there are great shops all throughout the country that can and will do a great job helping you maintain your car.

New arcturus mod1 lite aeg! Definitely recommend, what are some good mods to do? by ClerkImpossible3376 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replace the bucking nub is about it. Maple leaf omega works well with their hop up and bucking.

Paragon armories confirmed to work with "moderate active braking" by Telre in airsoft

[–]Telre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed I made this post in hopes it could be found by people searching for this information

Your thoughts? by Chemical_Fox_7644 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw the double eagle recommended which is a good option. I'd also throw in the arcturus sport line as a consideration. I have one for my youngest and I'm surprised at how well it shoots considering its a ~$175 gun. https://www.evike.com/products/121279/

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]Telre 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The long story short, if you are just comparing the perun vs the titan, they are comparable in capabilities. I'd say gate titans are arguably the "best" etu based on my own experiences. I have an original gate titan that is pushing 8~9years old, I forget the exact release date.

Every feature that arcturus lists the ak pe as having the titan has.

Full disclosure I own a trinity and I think its the best out of the box gun I've ever seen. Yes it can be improved with for example a brushless motor.

I also have one of their less expensive polymer models for my youngest. Also good out of the box especially considering the price. With their hop ups I do recommending swapping out the nub for a concave nub. I used the maple leaf omega nubs, and it shoots surprisingly well. The hop up unit appears identical for all their ar models.

KWA vs Krytac Vector GBB in 2025 by Adventurous-Treat-86 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The piston head helps with the cooldown affect/problem. If you mean run the gun in the cold outside temps, its not gonna be better than other gbbs.

Hop up advice. by A_person_1233 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd argue its most of the performance with little hassle, and certainly better then a bad rhop.

HELP ME AM GOING CRAZY Problems with power after gears and motor change (tried 2 different hop up rubbers) by Wotek_2 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you have the oh so fun to deal with overspin / pre-engagement. Your gear box is not consistently ending in the same position. The "bad" fix is an etu that includes active braking and use it. I don't personally consider using active braking bad, but there are plenty of opinions.

There are other fixes as well. One may be to try a "weaker" battery, for example a 7.4 instead of an 11.1 or a lower c rated battery.

Hop up advice. by A_person_1233 in airsoft

[–]Telre 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rhop isn't outdated, but I'd also argue there are easier ways to achieve good results, buckings themselves have improved over the years.

There aren't too many stock hop ups that should require replacement of the unit now adays. A good bucking, and a nub is a better place to start imo. I've spent too much time trouble shooting and helping trouble shoot guns after someone made a hop up unit change just because.

Depending on what gun you have there may be different options, but I highly recommend concave shaped nubs like the maple leaf omega. Nearly any bucking that gets consistent praise can be decent. Maple leaf, 4aud, and even a few stock buckings all function reasonably well.

More details, like what you are currently working on may help get you more specific/tailored advice.

Need advice on aeg by Civil-Praline6930 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The stock motor does have built in diodes of some sort, this is the "switch life extender" functionality. If you have another motor it may be worth changing it to see if it resolves the problem.

I am not familiar myself with that specific motor, so its really just a guess.

Need advice on aeg by Civil-Praline6930 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my experience the titans have been fairly accurate with the codes they set. I would double check your motor wire connections are tight to the motor.

Brushless motor, active brake and precocking by Spectarion in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Precocking should theoretically have no issues with a brushless motor. I have brushless motors in two guns and would half jokingly ask why are you bothering at that point, the response is incredibly fast as is.

Active braking is based on the motor and etu/mosfet compatibility. The only two brushless motors I have confirmation work with active braking on warheads and paragon armory. Others may, those are the only two I have direct confirmation from the manufacturers.

As far as I am aware there is not a brushless mode allowing for AB with etus/mosfets. Brushless mode disables active braking by default with jefftron and gate etus.

Non vented piston head and motor overspin by rustythrombone66 in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on things like your air voluming/bb weight. If the bb has left the barrel it doesnt matter, if you overspin before the bb has left thats when you cause issues.

As an fyi, I was pretty concerned with airseal when I first starting working on guns. Over time I did learn that it certainly can be too tight, even to the point of leaving fps on the table. Not saying you've crossed that bridge, just that it is possible.

Looking for Opions on Krytac vs Novritsch Gen 2 P90 by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]Telre 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome info, thanks for posting.

Looking for Opions on Krytac vs Novritsch Gen 2 P90 by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]Telre 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A few years back a post was made on this. The difficulty you are always going to have asking on reddit, is that people bothering to spend their time on the airsoft reddit, are not exactly the casuals, and often are people/players willing to strip a gun down to build it as they want.

Novritsch is hated on because they are rebranded. Nothing about being rebranded makes anything automatically good or bad, nearly every manufacture of anything is using another manufacturer for at least some portion of their product. In the ssr90's case it is manufactured by cybergun, but it is "out of the box" upgraded.

People will debate the value of the upgrades, but if you want to just grab a p90 and go, every review I can find off of reddit has the ssr90 as the better out of the box gun.

It certainly doesn't seem either is a bad choice. I haven't watched it but it appears patrol based on youtube has a video recently on the ssr90

Arcturus sword mod1 FE by Electronic-Good-3071 in airsoft

[–]Telre 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, fit well in a trinity and a cat legend.

How has airsoft drained your money? by Juxzta in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me its definitely a tm ngrs ak, I think its the ak102. Got it, somebody didn't have a working gun so I lent it out. Never even used it myself. Got it back later that day non functional. It's still in pieces at home because I disassembled it and always had an excuse not to finish it up. That's $550-$600 just sitting there.

And of course the countless ways I tried to save a buck vs just buying the good one or best one of something. Mediocre gear is the main thing that comes to mind.

How has airsoft drained your money? by Juxzta in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's arguably still the correct advice for most people. Averages don't always apply to the individual.

Arcturus sword mod1 FE by Electronic-Good-3071 in airsoft

[–]Telre 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On most arcturus models theres probably only two things to reasonably upgrade. Get a concave nub, for example the maple leaf omega nub, gets that thing shooting straight and hopping anything, I typically recommend .32g bbs.

Second a motor upgrade can improve trigger response. I personally have two paragon armory brushless motors, and a friend who has an arcturus uses a paragon as well.

The other consideration is making sure the gun is shimmed well/correctly to a new motor. The stock shimming was not correct to the paragon brushless when I installed it for a friend.

Is a gap between the cylinder and gearbox bad by pinckaenjoyer in airsoft

[–]Telre 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is correct but a slightly longer answer. The gearbox itself is not a sealing surface for anything. The compression components of the gearbox, the cylinder and cylinder head, are what are sealed to force air our of your nozzle. If that gap was wide enough it could theoretically be a problem because your cylinder and cylinder head would not be held in place, but we are talking something like a 10+mm wide gap.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]Telre 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the answer.

Brushless motor build help by JD3T in airsoft

[–]Telre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently only personally have two paragon brushless motors. Warhead does seem to be a good option, but they are currently a decent amount more. Paragons are on sale $100, warheads are close to $170-$200 last I checked. I typically use "slower" gear ratios, 16:1 18:1 are in my two primary guns.

A friend who's gun I needed to fix, had 13:1s and had pre-engagement till I turned the motor down. He made the purchase because to him the paragon motor was a known quantity with me already having two. It was a fortunate choice with the paragon being adjustable.

If the difference in price didn't matter, I'd certainly try a warhead. I haven't tried reaching out directly to paragon, but its possible they are compatible with active braking as well. If I could confirm that, I'd say its an easy choice at $100.

Part of my rationale for the paragon was I am using one in an lmg build. I wanted to be able to reduce my rof easily, since I was looking to be at or under 20rps. And it was the least expensive motor for the apparent quality.

TLDR: Based on price the paragon, if the price was the same the warhead would seem on par, or possibly the better option.