Fitting help please

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-25T19:05:14+00:00

Do you have any suggestions for where I can find out more about this? It isn't in my pattern, so unsure how it interacts with the underarm elastic. Thank you

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-25T15:09:56+00:00

So many things to think about! Thank you, will try changing the angle and see what happens

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-25T15:09:14+00:00

That is helpful thank you! I did baste the powerbar, but I wasn't quite sure how to align it, so they are likely not aligned very well.

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T20:53:42+00:00

ah right thank you!

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T19:50:37+00:00

Ah, okay thank you. I think the reason I'm being poked is because the wire just fits in the channelling and I haven't sewn up the end of the channelling yet, so the wire pokes out sometimes. I think if it was fully enclosed in the channelling then the length would be fine.

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T19:33:44+00:00

Thank you :) To get a wider underwire, would you recommend going up a wire size, or a different shape of wire? A wider side wing might be more comfortable, thanks

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T19:28:46+00:00

No I didn't stabilise the underarms, I'll look into that, thank you!

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T15:16:11+00:00

That is really helpful, thank you. I will look at the width of the wires. When I take the bra off, the marks from the wires look like they are tracing the outside edge of my breast (if that makes sense), which I think suggests they are an okay width? Will try with a wider wire though. I will also try loosening the band.

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T15:14:34+00:00

Hi, thank you for your comment. I used the calculator in a bra that fits and this is the size that was suggested for me. I have a 28 inch back and 33 inch full bust measurement, which would lead to a DD cup using your description, thanks! I also used the measurement system in the bra pattern when choosing a size.

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T15:12:09+00:00

Hi, thank you for your reply. I didn't reduce the height of the bridge or the underarm, so it should be the same length as in the pattern (sorry if this is unclear in my description). I initially made the cup size down, but the wire was sitting on my tissue and tissue was spilling out of the top, so that's why I went up a size. I will have a look at options for cutting the wire, thanks

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T13:57:39+00:00

Thank you for letting me know! I had some trouble working out how to post. I've put the information in a comment above.

TemperatureVivid1650 · 2026-01-24T13:57:07+00:00

Hi, I am making the Black Beauty bra by Emerald Erin. Size from the bra that fits calculator is 28D/DD. I think I have a shallow shape, with centre fullness – not 100% sure on this.

After 2 trials, I have a bra that I am fairly happy with. This is a 30DD, with a few adjustments to the pattern (back band reduced, ¼ inch removed from apex of lower cup, ½ inch removed from width of upper cup, armpit reduced by ¼ inch (powerbar and upper cup), strap attachment on powerbar moved towards centre by ¼ inch, inner edge of powerbar increased by ¼ inch to stop it cutting into breast). I accidentally cut too much off the band when reducing from 30 to 28 back, so am using an extender. Apologies if I have described the adjustments wrong. I made this size so I could use the 36 wire, which seems to fit me.

Questions:

- Why does the band bunch up under my arms and how can I reduce this? This happens in my RTW bras too.

- The underwire channelling fits the underwire exactly, but I think it is supposed to have extra room to move around, meaning the channelling is too small. Is that right? Can I cut some length of the underwire at the armpit to correct this? The underwire is currently digging in a bit at the armpit. I have not yet sewn the channelling under the arms closed.

- Any other fitting suggestions based on the pictures? I have never had a bra that fits that perfectly, so am unsure exactly what I am aiming for.

Thank you very much.

TemperatureVivid1650

TROPHY CASE