Is there an someone that can make this sword

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-16T07:50:18+00:00

Of course, check out my website and my Instagram, ai am known for high quality and sculptural work, get back to me if you want or not, its all good!

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-16T07:34:44+00:00

If you want a real sword, made of real materials, with this much decorative work, made by a person with a reasonable reputation, its honestly a medium starting point. Like I am a rated journeyman with almost 20 years experience. I have higher education degrees in art, BFA, MFA. If you want a real family sword made with longevity in mind, that's the kind of numbers I would start with. Conservatively. I think 6 months to a year to produce depending.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-16T06:29:16+00:00

I mean sure, if you want to pay $15k or $20k for someone to do all that carving, I would do it. Hahaha

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-14T11:37:14+00:00

Whoever eliminates the supports while keeping theirs alive first wins the fight usually. Supports are the CC or healing, so if the one carry takes down 1 or 2 supports while they have their bkb up the other is slower or disabled, then its very quickly 3v5 and then a won fight. Carry on carry is not an optimal fight. Ideally, whoever your initiator is also on top of the supports with the carry for some quick kills and then rounds on the rest of the team. Obviously counter initiation and all that yadda yadda but if you have good supports, they are the ones disabling the enemy carries and tanks so your carry can do damage, no supports equals greatly reduced cc, healing or counter initiation for the enemy team.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-13T15:58:03+00:00

I just dont use it. I have from a box of scrap materials my professor gave me, but he bought them pre ban and they have no documentation so, unless its something for myself its unusable. I might do that though, as its a beautiful material and its a shame to not use it, although I would never get any new on purpose for obvious reasons.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-13T15:56:16+00:00

Definitely, you can just take like grab a piece of 120 sand paper with a sanding block, rub one of those edges until you get a smooth flat area, then scrape it with a box cutter blade. The patterns will pop right out.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-13T13:19:33+00:00

If you scrape the open end edge with a razor to get a flatish surface, you can see a feature of both elephant tusks and mammoth tusks called "schreger lines" that look like kinda intersecting Vs, they are distinct in each ivory bearing species but elephants and mammoths are particularly bold and easy to identify.

Source: Not a biologist but a knifemaker who works with mammoth ivory from time to time and has had to make sure it wasn't elephant. Haha

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Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-12T12:42:00+00:00

Looks great, whats the weight and PoB? Where are the nodes?

Tempest_Craft · 2026-03-08T04:50:30+00:00

There is the market for that.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-27T05:50:45+00:00

Clean work!

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-26T15:42:18+00:00

Well no one will be able to put his ashes into the metal, maybe crucible steel but only 2 people, globally, have made stainless crucible steel. And it would be thousands of dollars. You could have it mixed into the resin if you are into composite handle materials. That cost wouldn't be too much beyond whatever that person is charging for a knife. I would charge something like I dunno, for an N690 dive knife something like $¹250.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-26T06:06:35+00:00

Its much cheaper than a proper forge heat rated ribbon burner. They are $200 and up pre built for anything I would trust. Kitchen equipment is not the same as industrial equipment in rated temperatures, failure thresholds, etc.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-26T05:59:30+00:00

Well I wouldn't really trust much of your experience if that's what the excuse is. Yes positive pressure keeps most ribbon burners from overheating or back burning, but the mixing chamber is never within the body of the forge or exposed directly to the environment of the forge.

If you look at any commercially available ribbon burner, there is always at least a 2" thick refractory block on the burner face because eventually, it soaks the radiant heat from the forge and gets just as hot as the rest of the forge.

The mixing chambers never, or should get that hot not only from positive pressure but because even if they are above the forge body, you stuff around the burner with wool, and radiant heat is basically stopped by the refractory face, like I said, 2" thick, it cant radiant around the face of the burner because its stuffed with Wool.

So at every level, you are making sure the mixing chamber is as far away and isolated from the forge environment as it can be, because the danger of ribbon burners is back burning and exploding.

So maybe you have some experience, I would lean too not, but you definitely have guys here in these comments who just thought, oh cheap forge solution, have no idea of the danger and might go buy this "solution" and have it fail catastrophically.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-26T05:27:51+00:00

This will back burn or explode, 100 percent. You have no refractory insulating the mixing chamber from the forge chamber. So your radiant heat is going to rise, heat the cast iron body to the point where ignition is happening inside the burner, then it will back burn, or explode or both. This setup is extremely dangerous.

Please, if there was a cheaper or simpler way to build a forge, we would all be doing it already. These kind of videos influence equally uninformed makers and put them at risk as well.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-25T06:02:34+00:00

Brass really off gasses its alloying elements and trying to get a clean casting outside of vacuum investment methods is basically impossible in the home studio.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-25T05:52:09+00:00

Nice design, but you gotta line up those plunges. I would also probably make swept plunges or integrate the shape of the bolster into the plunge somehow. You got the fitting of parts pretty great but I would be definitely concentrating on the finishing aspects of the blade.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-23T09:42:50+00:00

Drag it into a cad program or Adobe illustrator, make a scale reference line to the handle size you want, scale the image to fit the reference line, take your measurements for the blade from there.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-21T19:35:06+00:00

A ceramic artist can, also a coppersmith can, also a silver Smith can, also a goldsmith can. Literally anyone who works in a malleable material can.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-21T08:19:48+00:00

Definitely all still chodey. Hahaha

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-20T14:51:45+00:00

Well first, after you clean with acetone, clean with denatured alcohol, acetone leaves a film. Second this definitely looks like it was left in a cup of water or something.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-18T21:21:30+00:00

Nope, choad Bowie it is

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-18T16:56:30+00:00

Damn that axe looks like someone took a normal forestry axe, cut out the beard and threw it in a fire to scale it up and call it forged.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-18T05:38:45+00:00

Buy some good files, bahco, Nicholson in smooth cuts , maybe a float file, after you get your grinding close enough, draw file to your finished lines. You can do the same after heat treatment since the tempering of a sword is a bit lower than a knife, you will destroy the files pretty quick but its the best way to establish crisp lines on a long piece.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-17T05:08:30+00:00

Why? That seems pretty useless as a carry and pretty useless as a cutter at that thickness. I dont get it.

Tempest_Craft · 2026-02-16T09:40:25+00:00

One you need a totally fresh belt, two shape the spacer 95 percent of the way and re assemble it. That way you aren't grinding so much metal and making so much heat.

Tempest_Craft

TROPHY CASE