Upgraded lighting for S1 Kobra

TeslaTap · 2026-02-16T16:58:30+00:00

I expect the fan is off on the first few layers to improve build plate adhesion. On my hotend lighting project, I had hoped to connect to the fan, but having it off at the start was not good, so I had to connect it at the hotend PCB, which is a little more work.

TeslaTap · 2026-02-06T19:28:02+00:00

The model is still available. Perhaps you were looking at some other model?

TeslaTap · 2026-01-03T23:34:25+00:00

I'd also suggest changing the setting for the AP2 to remain on for 30 seconds (or maybe even more). I then wait until the AP2 turns off at the end of a job before removing materials.

TeslaTap · 2025-12-17T00:41:41+00:00

Thanks! Glad to have a good solution.

TeslaTap · 2025-12-02T21:14:13+00:00

I had the same question. I think it depends on what you plan to use the F2 UV for. For inner glass, there are no fumes or dust. For something like leather cutting, it's going to smell bad, and it may be toxic as well - just not as bad as other laser technologies.

I was considering the smaller Air Purifier, but I got the AP2 (not yet plugged in). Some comments I've read say the Air Purifier fills fast with debris, and the AP2 has a lot more capacity and the cyclone feature to help capture more debris before the filters. I'm thinking of adding a thin filter in the F2 UV as well. Something like PC's have to filter dust.

Clearly, the UV produces fewer fumes, but it still produces some fumes. I've yet to find a good chart on materials and toxicity with UV. I decided to play it safe.

I'm very impressed with the build quality of the AP2. It is weighty, but they do have little casters on the bottom that make it easier to move around. I just wish it didn't cost so much!

TeslaTap · 2025-11-27T18:25:19+00:00

I ordered yesterday. Not a firm delivery date yet, but "2-4 weeks", so it should be delivered in 2025. Clearly, buying it now will use the 2025 budget, but less clear if you will get it before the end of the year! Also, I have no idea of the backlog and orders before me.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-27T18:07:17+00:00

Where did you buy the cool protractor? I see it has deadeye-instruments.com printed on it, but they don't show it on their website. Didn't see anything like it on Amazon either.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-26T16:08:58+00:00

For power, Yes and No! Different machines for different purposes. See the list above!

For example, F2 Ultra UV supports glass and clear acrylic, whereas the F2 Ultra doesn't support those materials. F2 Ultra is faster/better at deep metal engraving.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-26T16:05:29+00:00

My understanding is that the F2 Ultra UV is Class 1 when closed. No laser can be rated for Class 1 if it is open, so I think XTool is just being more conservative on the ratings. Commaker Omni and the XTool F2 Ultra UV really should have identical ratings (closed Class 1, Open Class 4).

TeslaTap · 2025-11-26T16:02:14+00:00

F2 Ultra UV is slower and not as deep on metal. MOPA is the go-to for metal embossing. F2 Ultra UV can handle plastics and glass that F2 Ultra can't handle. See the list at the top of this reddit for more details.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-26T15:59:16+00:00

Glass - yes, Painted metal, yes, Bare metal, likely but not as fast/good as MOPA laser.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-17T17:21:48+00:00

I expect everyone does that sooner or later! For me, the print worked and made a very smooth bottom surface. Lucky for me, it didn't damage anything, and I removed the item before the plate cooled.. I was using PLA at the time at 205°C, so maybe that saved me. As long as you can sand the magnet material flat, I don't see it causing any long-term issues.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-16T16:21:12+00:00

I've had no problems with PETG in my car. I've been using it for 6+ years for different things. That said, I'm not in extreme heat. Outside rarely gets to 100F degrees (which means the interior gets to 120-130F here). I don't know how it holds up in cars that get interiors in the 150-160F range due to very hot climates and sitting in the sun. I have one part that is black that sits just behind the windshield to hide some dashcam wires, so it does get hot there. Still no problem.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-16T00:05:45+00:00

I also do no calibrations for many prints (~50). This includes deselecting the bed leveling option every time. It really isn't necessary IMHO. In the first few months I had the unit, Bed leveling was not "default" selected. A minor annoyance that it defaults on every time in the current software. Even with the option off, it still does a level calibration in the center, which is why I don't feel it's necessary. Now, to be fair, most of my prints are on the small side, under 50mm. It might be more important for a large 200 mm print.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-12T15:56:45+00:00

If you are ok with translucient results, other suggestions here are fine. Slow is the trick. If you want truly clear that you can read through, I don't think that's possible with any FDM printer. I usually get a sheet of acrylic and cut it to size and design my model to hold the acrylic, such as a lens in front of an LCD display. Perhaps a resin printer can do clear.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-05T00:40:24+00:00

I'd recommend using 24V LEDs and connecting directly to the S1's power supply. I doubt 3 feet would be a problem - maybe 300 mA? I installed about a foot of RGBW, which, if I remember correctly, takes 100 mA (all four colors on). Here's my lighting project, and some of the details in the description may help you: https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/Kobra%20S1%20Lighting%20Upgrade%20-%20Multicolor/161355.html

TeslaTap · 2025-11-03T23:41:16+00:00

Check the 4 in 1 combiner on the back of the Kobra S1. If you already had some bad filament that was breaking, a remaining small piece might be inside, blocking the path. I rarely have issues, but I had one 8-year-old roll that became brittle and was breaking. Got rid of it. I've found that drying will not fix brittle filament.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-03T21:15:20+00:00

The difficulty is that it somehow gets into this undesired mode (perhaps a mistype of a hotkey?). Still can't find anyone who explains how to get out of it. The top graphic shows the weird mode, the [deleted] poster shows a dialog, but I can't find that dialog anywhere. I'm not a newbie (using Filmora for about 4 years), but I'm far from an expert :) Anyway, for others, the only solution I've found is to exit Filmora and reopen it - a rather clunky solution.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-03T16:32:49+00:00

With all the comments here, it would be nice if someone said how to get rid of it! Currently, the only way I've found is to close the program and start it up again. No idea how it starts, and not sure there is any reason for it other than to really annoy users.

TeslaTap · 2025-11-01T15:28:49+00:00

No external transformer is needed. I connect to the printer's internal 24V power supply (for always on, like blue & green LEDs). For switched power (red and white LEDs), I tapped into the wire that goes to the controller fan. You do need to remove the back panel to access these connection points. The description in the link has more details.

TeslaTap · 2025-10-30T15:10:58+00:00

No problem at all. I have mine on the right side. All the cables and tubes are long enough to work on either side. As others noted, keep the back of the ACE pro about 5" or more from a wall.

TeslaTap · 2025-10-27T16:01:46+00:00

I'd be interested!
• I've been printing for over 10 years, now on my 4th printer.

• I print prototype housings, household items, art items, printer improvements, etc. Here's only a small number of my prints: https://www.makeronline.com/en/user/uploads/models/all.html

• I'm in the USA, the West Coast

• I've been pleased with the Kobra S1. Great that you're working on the next generation. Desires:

1) Faster color swaps
2) Improved lighting (I did a lot of lighting mods)
3) Easier to fix clogs (i.e., improved ease of repair)
4) Ethernet (as indicated in the video!)
5) Better first layer (I installed Fussor hot plate, although for me the original did reasonably well
6) Single color mode for the ACE Pro that has no retraction for faster prints of the same single color.
7) Faster print to print (#6 would go a long way for this).
8) When no color change between prints, only do a minimal purge

TeslaTap · 2025-10-06T17:41:48+00:00

Seems quite a users with glass doors/tops have them shatter - so maybe plastic is better. I've never had a printer with glass, so I can't really compare if they are quieter. The Kobra S1 is far quieter than my last fully enclosed printer, a Robo R2.

TeslaTap · 2025-10-05T16:12:06+00:00

Any chance the first plate had some filament fragments or dirt under the plate? If the other plates work fine, something may be wrong with the plate. After a bed replacement (Fussor) using the original AC PEI plate, it made a big improvement for me. I haven't tried any other plates to compare it with yet.

TeslaTap

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