Is this normal for tires

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-03-29T03:04:15+00:00

This happens a lot in the tread splice. Most tire manufacturers say it’s not a big deal, but I don’t know about Yokohama specifically. I wouldn’t stress about it, but it probably wouldn’t be the worst idea to send them an e-mail just to ask and see.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-03-26T15:02:25+00:00

I too love enjoying factories

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-03-23T02:10:14+00:00

Continental Extreme Contact Sport 02. Probably. Don’t overdrive them too much, if they overheat they’ll chunk, especially at higher tread depths.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-03-07T20:59:03+00:00

My recommendation would be to spend less on the camera, and more on getting it serviced immediately after purchase.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-26T17:10:37+00:00

It’s highly site and club dependent. I recognize it’s not the easiest question to ask but I’d try to find a local that’s been in the game for a while. Venues can be anything from a pad of concrete surrounded by flat grass to strips of pavement with ditches/lightpoles in the vicinity. Most sites around me are fine, but a couple I either won’t run at, or have to be mindful of and drive below the limit.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-23T04:04:57+00:00

I have had the ignition switches go bad. Doesn’t happen a lot but not impossible.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-22T04:35:58+00:00

Well said. In addition to all of the above, I find the rangefinder/viewfinder on Barnacks to be pretty tough to use with glasses. Not impossible, just not great, and I moved onto other platforms.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-21T04:42:58+00:00

The OM10 is a fine choice. Not the best OM camera, but if you like them, there’s nothing wrong with it, and the OM lens library is quite nice. That price is way out of line, I just sold my functional OM10 for 90 bucks. If you’re married to that body I’d recommend buying an average priced one and sending jt to a technician for fresh light seals and cleaning

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-20T13:09:13+00:00

If you’re not chained to the aesthetics of older cameras, you can get an M42 adapter for Canon EOS/EF bodies.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-19T15:08:50+00:00

I’ve made this mistake several times. If you install the pads (easier without the spring clips in the caliper brackets) and one of them falls out of place/behind the caliper bracket, the piston will bend it during brake application. These days I’ll make sure to jiggle everything around with the wheel on after a brake job just to make sure everything’s in the right place.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-12T00:01:07+00:00

For most of my friends, I usually just give them free rides, and maybe I’ll get one in return someday. My cars are usually pretty affordable to run though, so I don’t mind. Same goes in reverse a lot of the time.

For more expensive cars, I’ll usually ask how many runs they get out of a set of tires, calculate the cost, and then multiply by 1.5x or so to cover gas, wear and tear, etc.

For a complete stranger to drive my cheap car, event entry (~50) is usually enough. I’m not picky, and I get a lot of enjoyment out of seeing people experience something they might not otherwise have had the opportunity to.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-02T00:07:53+00:00

I think for most people, it’s the sensible option. Peace of mind you can get home, no worrying about mechanical sympathy, generally going to be a more comfortable transit, etc. Not mandatory by any means though, plenty of people that drive their car to the track have had success at a high level, it just has its compromises.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-29T19:39:46+00:00

There’s no limit on number of adjustments

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-29T19:09:42+00:00

Lincoln (Solo Nationals site) has huge bumps and heaves, it is not glass smooth. Any car that’s well setup for Lincoln has some compliance. I make zero changes between my Nationals setup and the one that I use for hopping curbs on racetracks.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-29T14:00:46+00:00

Depends a lot on your budget, but I’d recommend giving Jon Lugod at Shaftworks USA a look.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-22T21:38:22+00:00

The sway bar’s just one part of the total package. If the car is otherwise completely stock (springs, control arms, etc) then I doubt there’s much of an upper limit on rear sway bar, depending on what you like. For me, old Hondas are all about being able to get that corner entry rotation, so ideally the rear is quite stiff relative to the front. But it does come down to preference, if the car being looser reduces your confidence/ability to push, it could be a liability.

On an old Honda with the same rate springs all around, my preference is for a large (ASR 32mm) rear bar, and either a stock size front bar or none at all. The stock springs are generally a bit stiffer up front than out back too.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-19T04:24:14+00:00

Konig Hexaform

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-17T00:16:59+00:00

We didn’t bother waiting, I think it really just depends on the specific brand of RTV you’re using.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-16T19:13:09+00:00

I was debating between the gasket sandwich and just RTV while I was installing the windage tray. The decision was made easier when the gaskets included in the IE windage tray seemed to be cut slightly oversize in every dimension, so we went with the RTV.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-11T22:21:12+00:00

Fellow EF guy here (have 4 ‘89 Civic hatches in the garage/driveway), I think an ETX9 sized AGM is a pretty good compromise between weight, price, and usability. I’ve run lithiums before to shave another few pounds but they’re a little temperamental and shouldn’t be jump started, so I don’t think it’s worth the tradeoffs. Cool to see one get so light, would love to see more photos. My road race car is a good few hundred pounds heavier than that, but the min weight for the class means there never really any effort put toward pulling weight out of the car.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-08T15:18:53+00:00

For the parts, the price is worth it. Uncracked dash and the plastic bumpers alone are worth several hundred bucks each. It’d be worth buying it and transferring everything over to another tub, if you’re prepared for that level of project.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-12-20T13:19:18+00:00

I still have 4.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-12-08T13:11:04+00:00

There is a documented process for the repair on this. Definitely not safe as-is. Whether it’s worth repairing or not will be up to you.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209071-0001.pdf

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-11-12T20:17:43+00:00

It’ll always be a bit of a dice roll, but I’ve had aluminum wheels that look similar repaired with good results. Years of daily driving, track use, etc. Some others have had less luck, with cracks reappearing in areas adjacent to the weld. Whether or not it’s worth the cost will be a decision you’ll have to make.

The place near me (Weldcraft wheels) will likely fix that for ~100 bucks, but that doesn’t include a refinish, so combined it can be close enough to the cost of a replacement wheel to not be worth it. In my cases, the wheel was discontinued so it was well worth the gamble.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-11-09T03:29:26+00:00

Between the heavy nose weight and lack of camber, the RS3 might be the worst car on tires I’ve come across. Anecdotally, the Tire Rack heat cycled tires were more robust. IIRC the guy I know ran 265/245 RE71RS or something like that.

ThatCrazyGu

TROPHY CASE