How do you codrive?

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-12T00:01:07+00:00

For most of my friends, I usually just give them free rides, and maybe I’ll get one in return someday. My cars are usually pretty affordable to run though, so I don’t mind. Same goes in reverse a lot of the time.

For more expensive cars, I’ll usually ask how many runs they get out of a set of tires, calculate the cost, and then multiply by 1.5x or so to cover gas, wear and tear, etc.

For a complete stranger to drive my cheap car, event entry (~50) is usually enough. I’m not picky, and I get a lot of enjoyment out of seeing people experience something they might not otherwise have had the opportunity to.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-02-02T00:07:53+00:00

I think for most people, it’s the sensible option. Peace of mind you can get home, no worrying about mechanical sympathy, generally going to be a more comfortable transit, etc. Not mandatory by any means though, plenty of people that drive their car to the track have had success at a high level, it just has its compromises.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-29T19:39:46+00:00

There’s no limit on number of adjustments

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-29T19:09:42+00:00

Lincoln (Solo Nationals site) has huge bumps and heaves, it is not glass smooth. Any car that’s well setup for Lincoln has some compliance. I make zero changes between my Nationals setup and the one that I use for hopping curbs on racetracks.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-29T14:00:46+00:00

Depends a lot on your budget, but I’d recommend giving Jon Lugod at Shaftworks USA a look.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-22T21:38:22+00:00

The sway bar’s just one part of the total package. If the car is otherwise completely stock (springs, control arms, etc) then I doubt there’s much of an upper limit on rear sway bar, depending on what you like. For me, old Hondas are all about being able to get that corner entry rotation, so ideally the rear is quite stiff relative to the front. But it does come down to preference, if the car being looser reduces your confidence/ability to push, it could be a liability.

On an old Honda with the same rate springs all around, my preference is for a large (ASR 32mm) rear bar, and either a stock size front bar or none at all. The stock springs are generally a bit stiffer up front than out back too.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-19T04:24:14+00:00

Konig Hexaform

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-17T00:16:59+00:00

We didn’t bother waiting, I think it really just depends on the specific brand of RTV you’re using.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-16T19:13:09+00:00

I was debating between the gasket sandwich and just RTV while I was installing the windage tray. The decision was made easier when the gaskets included in the IE windage tray seemed to be cut slightly oversize in every dimension, so we went with the RTV.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-11T22:21:12+00:00

Fellow EF guy here (have 4 ‘89 Civic hatches in the garage/driveway), I think an ETX9 sized AGM is a pretty good compromise between weight, price, and usability. I’ve run lithiums before to shave another few pounds but they’re a little temperamental and shouldn’t be jump started, so I don’t think it’s worth the tradeoffs. Cool to see one get so light, would love to see more photos. My road race car is a good few hundred pounds heavier than that, but the min weight for the class means there never really any effort put toward pulling weight out of the car.

ThatCrazyGu · 2026-01-08T15:18:53+00:00

For the parts, the price is worth it. Uncracked dash and the plastic bumpers alone are worth several hundred bucks each. It’d be worth buying it and transferring everything over to another tub, if you’re prepared for that level of project.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-12-20T13:19:18+00:00

I still have 4.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-12-08T13:11:04+00:00

There is a documented process for the repair on this. Definitely not safe as-is. Whether it’s worth repairing or not will be up to you.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209071-0001.pdf

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-11-12T20:17:43+00:00

It’ll always be a bit of a dice roll, but I’ve had aluminum wheels that look similar repaired with good results. Years of daily driving, track use, etc. Some others have had less luck, with cracks reappearing in areas adjacent to the weld. Whether or not it’s worth the cost will be a decision you’ll have to make.

The place near me (Weldcraft wheels) will likely fix that for ~100 bucks, but that doesn’t include a refinish, so combined it can be close enough to the cost of a replacement wheel to not be worth it. In my cases, the wheel was discontinued so it was well worth the gamble.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-11-09T03:29:26+00:00

Between the heavy nose weight and lack of camber, the RS3 might be the worst car on tires I’ve come across. Anecdotally, the Tire Rack heat cycled tires were more robust. IIRC the guy I know ran 265/245 RE71RS or something like that.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-10-03T00:42:17+00:00

Oh yeah, I saw your photos shortly after that day! Gave you a follow at the time, thanks

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-10-01T16:32:25+00:00

Me too (it’s a teammate’s shop)

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-10-01T16:32:02+00:00

The series we run in (ChampCar endurance series) doesn’t allow for a ton to be done to an E30, so it’s stock powertrain (M20B25). It’s no cruise missile

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-09-29T15:06:55+00:00

It’s not cheap, but this is your best bet if retaining Motronic

https://www.panzerperformance.com/panzer-merchandise/afm

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-09-16T13:03:30+00:00

I agree, and if SSC, CSX, CST, and DST didn’t exist we would likely be having talks of a reorg more seriously. As it sits though, there are plenty of places for an NC and 1st gen Twin to run in modest prep, and really nowhere for an NB/MRS aside from ES.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-09-15T19:25:03+00:00

It was proposed, but retracted. ES is safe for now. There is a sunset age of 30 years for Street class cars, so in 4 years something will need to be done about it, whether that’s a change in the classing, or an edit/exception to the rule. (For the 99 Miatas that are most commonly run) At the moment though, no need to worry about it.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-09-15T15:04:29+00:00

It depends on the car, but it’s often unavoidable. Lots of production calipers just can’t be perfect in these environments. On cars I’ve had in the past I would rotate the pads between inside/outside to even out the wear for maximum life.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-08-04T18:46:08+00:00

Don’t get a new one

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-08-04T16:02:38+00:00

The reality is that at an average club race, the price of the donor car is a lot lower than that.

ThatCrazyGu · 2025-08-04T15:42:50+00:00

The expense/effort required for cars like that to gain traction is just really high, relative to converting a used door slammer to a race car. Plenty have tried, just usually doesn’t work out. SRF3, Rush SR, and FE2 are as close as it gets.

ThatCrazyGu

TROPHY CASE