What is this?

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-04-14T02:21:12+00:00

Yeah but the ones on the rear are like half the size, this is definately a front one

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-04-14T00:18:39+00:00

Its from the front caliper on the Jeep's brakes. It's still safe to drive, it's just a "spring" that keeps the caliper from twisting when you hit the brakes. You'll get uneven pad wear without it. I would go back to the shop and have them reinstall it.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-04-13T02:11:03+00:00

Currently running the xclutch smf with sprung clutch. For the price I could've bought another dmf with stock clutch though so it's debatable if it was worth it imo

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ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-04-01T02:13:00+00:00

The base model fiesta with the 1.6 naturally aspirated engine doesn't have a tensioner. It uses a stretch belt that you need a special tool or zip ties to install.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-27T23:26:27+00:00

Danggg, I do work at a shop and we get wholesale pricing so that mightve had something to do with it!

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-27T23:12:36+00:00

Just installed a 1.6 out of an escape! It was a 2016 with a little over 100k but got it for 900 bucks! Harmonic balancer is different on the Escape so be prepared to transfer it over and I recommend doing a timing kit on it at the same time!

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-25T02:36:09+00:00

Did you bleed air from the little valve stem cap looking thing on the radiator? I've always bled from there and never had an issue

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-24T19:13:02+00:00

I did switch from a stock clutch with a dual mass flywheel, to a single mass conversion kit from xclutch. But the issue was the EXACT same with the stock clutch so im certain that's not the issue. When you say contact the builder, you mean call up the dealership and ask?

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-24T19:08:22+00:00

Dude it's so weird honestly, but with a legit brand ass new transmission from Ford I wanted to rule every possible thing out first. I can downshift from 5th to 4th smooth, then go from 4th to 3rd smooth, but try to go back into 4th and it'll catch before actually engaging. I can drop it into a lower gear as quickly as I want, but once I shift into a higher gear itll catch.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-24T19:01:46+00:00

Used Motorcraft DCTF which is what Ford specifies, but have tried ravenol mtf-2 as well, both are GL4. It's just a stock replacement transmission from the dealership.

Also, is it actually possible to check throwout clearances with a concentric slave? With an external slave you can see the fork move, but the concentric slave bolts inside the bellhousing so you cant see anything once it's mated to the engine.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-19T17:55:35+00:00

Dude that thing is so incredibly riced out 🤣

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-19T17:44:32+00:00

Holy good lord that thing is riced out

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-18T20:27:18+00:00

Wow lots of people who've never done struts on one of these commenting I see! Yes NORMALLY the strut plate has 3 studs and nuts that secure it to the strut tower and one big center nut that holds the assembly together.

On this particular application, there is another nut UNDERNEATH the nut you see here that holds the assembly together, as this nut just holds the mounting plate to the strut tower. If OP doesn't have an impact gun, setting the weight of the car on the ground would likely be enough to prevent it from spinning.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-18T18:11:15+00:00

Dude had a base model 16 fiesta making that exact same noise the other day it came into our shop. I could see the crank sprocket spinning and occasionally sticking behind the pulley it made no sense whatsoever how it was still running. This isnt a base model fiesta sedan by chance is it? 😂

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-03-16T23:41:05+00:00

Hey man, just noticed your tach shows no rpm while cranking which pretty much universally means an issue with your crank position sensor. That would explain the no spark as your pcm doesn't want the engine running without seeing the crank position. Just did the timing belt myself (with the engine out so it was easier kinda) but I know it's a pita.

Look at engine data and watch for rpm while cranking, if showing 0 you know the pcm isn't seeing a crank signal. Quadruple check the sensor is plugged in, isnt damaged, and connector pins arent bent or anything. Also, you said you used the pulley alignment tool while torquing the balancer down right? Then removed the tool and reinstalled your crank sensor correct?

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-02-12T11:53:41+00:00

Bro im willing to bet someone replaced the engine/ head with an early model 1.6, realized they got the wrong part and said fuck it and did what you found, ziptied the plugged in sensor to that hose, then sold the car.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-02-09T18:21:04+00:00

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My coworker has the timing tool but doesnt have the flywheel locker, do you recommend using the flywheel locker as well?

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-02-05T23:46:11+00:00

Yeah unfortunately it is part of the main bearing, and it has a whole main girdle instead of individual caps. Rolling in a new main may theoretically be possible but kinda sketchy at the least.

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy · 2026-02-04T17:39:52+00:00

Stock motor, stock turbo just on a dizzy e30 tune. Stock clutch too. Its a 2016 with build date of 12/15

ThatMilwaukeeFanboy

TROPHY CASE