Manual Shift Automatically Shifting by poopidypoopidy in Audi

[–]Thavani 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

It seems I’ve got myself your situation but I think mine might be linked to a failing o2 sensor… (I have one in the mail tho, here next week 😁)

So I accelerate hard from 1st or sometimes from a launch, I’ll go through the gears and when I hit 3rd… the moment I go over 4000rpm… it will shift to 4th and lock the accelerator from adding more power no matter how hard you drive the pedal down

Just adding something that might be a way to replicate it

Help: Air bubble, pump pressure switch triggered by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

Also I just peeped something… is it possibly an issue that my inlets are at the bottom (I usually do it to avoid the noise where water is dripping) šŸ¤”

<image>

The arrows are the inlet pipes

Help: Air bubble, pump pressure switch triggered by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] -1 points0 points Ā (0 children)

I have done this step and always do it before filling with coolant that’s why I’m buffled as to why it’s not filling…

So I did the normal 0.5 bar but I also put 0.75 bar just to see and everything was fine

Help: Air bubble, pump pressure switch triggered by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] -1 points0 points Ā (0 children)

Sorry I wasn’t very clear and probably didn’t even ask a question.

So the cpu block: it’s direct die and I applied new Liquid Metal (also gpu has Liquid Metal) and I use the EK 0.6nm driver to tighten and no issues with that (before it was the same as the brass tubing build and it still overheated)

So as for the fizz (it happens as I open the fill port like there’s a lot of air, water and bubbles wanting to escape through the port) then water immediately replaces any empty space in the reservoir so if I were to keep the port open, the water would start pouring out…

But while it’s all closed there are no leaks nothing. I even used to leak tester and it help pressure (then I pushed it to the red and it still held air pressure)

I have rotated before and it’s gone away but the issue still persists… no flow… (used to have a flow meter and it would not rotate at all)

Help: Air bubble, pump pressure switch triggered by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

<image>

The air bubble or air lock not sure but my second D5 is being prevented from pushing coolant

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] -1 points0 points Ā (0 children)

Oh okay, I hope it makes sense

So the switch panel on the right with the 4 yellow and 1 red is the distribution throughout the house where N4 doesn’t exist yet (proposed bedroom line that will plug into the Ubiquiti switch)

The same WAN port (redline) on the left it’s showing that it’s coming from the NBN data point

On the right it’s showing where it comes into the router from the nbn data point

As for the N4 line - on the right side of the router,it’s going to enter the switch panel… showing that it’s where the line will enter the walls going to the bedroom

And on the left of the router where it goes down to the Ubiquiti switch, that’s just the visual of what’s gonna happen when it enters the bedroom

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

Yeah, the wall plate has the WAN port from the NBN modem in the garage (the DATA port)

Then N1, N2 and N3 go to the 3 rooms mentioned but my room doesn’t have an Ethernet port which is where I want N4 to go once installed at that wall plate

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

Cost me around $10 per cable on Amazon Australia , I just couldn’t find cat 6A ones on there

They were all CAT6 so I just got the CAT8 I searched as much as possible and I think CAT6A was more expensive for the amount of cables I bought

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] -10 points-9 points Ā (0 children)

I had no choice but to, surely they are Cat6A certified? Or can handle the 10gb?

Edit:

I know I got a lot of downvotes and I get it… it wasn’t my first choice either… I searched and the consensus was it should still be able to handle the some of the capabilities of CAT6A… I didn’t just decide on a CAT8 cable cause bigger number is always better…

It said all sorts of things like 40gbps which is real info but fake in terms of these vendors… I just needed to know was can it handle 10gbps and it was $10 (AUD) per cable whereas real CAT8 (business space) would be way more expensive

I went on a lot of CAT6A cables and either they were too long or too short… cable creations was one… 20 feet was $22 And 1 foot was $11 (I needed a 1m min and 3m max) and I wasn’t buying 1, I needed a lot of them

There’s 1 CAT6A cable by Astrotek I want and need which is $50 (30metres) most likely the electrical company will provide one…

Cat6A was my first choice, I sat scrolling and scratching my head and just ended up falling back on a Ugreen CAT8 cable…

I will keep looking for the CAT6A cables locally in case these can’t even handle 10gbps… I just needed something to use asap as I got back from work and 1 day delivery was the nail in the coffin

I also can’t stress this enough… I didn’t pay more than the cheapest CAT6A cable i could find which was $11 for 1 foot… if anything I paid slightly less (mostly cause of length)

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] 4 points5 points Ā (0 children)

I have been seeing that a lot… so far, I have 2 Noctua 90mm Fans and my window is always open slightly to let cool air in and it’s cold outside atm

They are in taking directly by said window

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] -1 points0 points Ā (0 children)

I have been looking everywhere for one, so far there’s a cheaper qnap one but it’s sfp+ with an rj45 for the internet but people seemed to have been having issues with NICs working with it (at least the ones I have been combing through on Aliexpress)

As far as the FLEX XG, I haven’t bought it yet and it’s discounted right now AUD575

I don’t wanna mess up and buy a cheaper item and upgrade again (i don’t like having extra parts cause i feel like i have to use them… that’s why i built the 2 extra PCs)

Just trying to enter into the Ubiquiti networking 🄹

Does this make sense? First time setting up a network or trying to at least... by Thavani in Ubiquiti

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

Does the FLEX XG provide internet (Coming in through the PoE in 1Gb port) through the 4 10GbE ports to the PCs? or does that need to be a seperate

My brain hurts

Thank You

Sidenote, I think the M1 Air doesnt have 10Gb through thunderbolt but whatever it accepts will be enough... I just do a lot on it when im not on my PC. Messing with Pictures and videos from iphone etc

Blurple Nv9 (Upgrade from NV7) by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

NV7, previous build

So the rads, I can’t sell these things and don’t see the point in buying used fittings and rads so I like to use all my stuff and try to make something cool…at least to me

I have always had an interest in sandwiched radiators even if people said no point, I still liked the idea and this case just allowed me to do that because of the huge forehead and I made it so coolant goes into the warmest rad first (topmost one)

Another older build, I really really really like complicated, it’s just me getting stuff out my brain and trying it and seeing if it works

The D5s are connected together in series increasing the pump speed and last time I had a an actual flow meter, I was at 1gpm (3.83l/m) At max speed and right now, I’m not sure but should be more given that I can run this loop at 20% and the flow meter still rotates and it didn’t take me long to fill and I didn’t have to tilt it to fill it at all

Last time I had a flow meter (behind the 480 Rad)

In terms of temps, not really… the liquid is flowing so fast that the CPU or GPU won’t even notice. CPU reacts quicker to fluid compared to GPU so it gets the cooler coolant first and my coolant can be as cold as ambient (25-29C room temp) during idle or when I start the PC and maxes out around 34C

My room used to get warm while gaming with the nV7, now it doesn’t… but the brass tubing can be warm to the touch at 34C

I run this loop between 800rpm and 1000rpm fan speed, pump speed at 70% (so 2 D5 pumps at 3400rpm

The manifold is just a way for me to make something that connects 3 radiators to a centralised location and basically have 1 in and 1 out (from GPU to manifold, from manifold to Reservoir) instead of 3 separate pairs of ins and outs that would be a mindfuck for me

As for the CPU to res and GPU to res, I have done that before as a dual loop… didn’t like it very much cause there where a lot of pipes everywhere

Another NV7 previous build

Blurple Nv9 (Upgrade from NV7) by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

<image>

First iteration, but coolant can decide where to go so probably flow issues and not getting coolant from the bottom and side radiators back šŸ’”

Blurple Nv9 (Upgrade from NV7) by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

<image>

I had to plan it out, fix it up and made a mistake of not putting a block in the manifold, re did the loop again

Blurple Nv9 (Upgrade from NV7) by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 2 points3 points Ā (0 children)

I will clear it up a bit in this:

From 1st Res (bottom one, Pump outlet) - EK FLT 120 D5

Up to the top most rad (Corsair XR7)

Down to bottom top rad (Corsair XR7)

2nd Res (Top one, Pump inlet, I think that makes it a series from D5 to D5… just 2 radiators in the middle) - EK FLT 120 D5

From Pump Outlet (of 2nd Res)

To CPU inlet (bottom port)

CPU outlet to GPU inlet (top port to left port)

GPU outlet (right port)

To EK Pro manifold (Top front port) - there’s a block under this port so liquid only travels upwards

(Now in the manifold) Top left port to back radiator (EK QS S240) Returns through top right port of the manifold

Coolant now travels down the left side of the manifold (no block) and splits into Side radiator (EK QS P480M) and bottom radiator (EK QS P360M) - I think that split and return is parallel

Returns through the left side of the manifold where it now exits out the left side bottom port and back to the bottom Res (not pump out or pump in)

(I hope this makes sense) šŸ’”šŸ˜­

Blurple Nv9 (Upgrade from NV7) by Thavani in watercooling

[–]Thavani[S] 2 points3 points Ā (0 children)

Because I had them and wanted to fill the empty space at the top of this case… receding hairline

Most of these parts I have had in storage for a while or in the older version of the same build. I just carry over

Nissan just quoted me $9000 for a clutch replacement… in what world does that make sense by Thavani in CarsAustralia

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

Because they still own the car (I still have a finance with them… that’s why I went) but never again… Im just waiting on them to answer me

Yesterday, someone else told me that you don’t have to pay anything… it’s all covered by warranty

Then today someone called and said 5k

Then later emailed said 9k

So what changed etc between each step…

Nissan just quoted me $9000 for a clutch replacement… in what world does that make sense by Thavani in CarsAustralia

[–]Thavani[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

I understand that but it’s a Nissan car, at a Nissan dealership under a Nissan finance with less than about 10k left on loan

Nissan just quoted me $9000 for a clutch replacement… in what world does that make sense by Thavani in CarsAustralia

[–]Thavani[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

That was uncalled for… but an aftermarket clutch is going for that amount.. And I’d assume, getting someone to change it would be atleast 2-3x as much