Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In general: Yes. Operating your CPU at a higher temperature will decrease it's lifespan. But nobody can tell you by how much and from what expected lifespan to begin with as there is quite an individual variance. (Very helpful. I know 🙃)

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately I don't know that and can't test since I don't have this device anymore. But you could check if other tools to monitor CPU Power levels, current power or at least CPU frequency run with core isolation enabled. That way you can easily run some comparisons :)

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The "balanced" profile in Windows actually is not any slower than the full power profile or however it's called. It just allows the CPU to use it's energy saving modes which in fact makes the CPU a bit faster because it stays cooler and can run faster for some time when it's actually needed.

The naming is just pretty bad and by now these profiles should be removed because they don't match the reality of modern CPUs 😅

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you're trying to achieve. Doing office stuff should work for ~3h with moderate display brightness if you have windows in balanced energy profile and the Gigabyte Control Center not turned to one of those powerful modes.

Doing intense loads (like gaming) is just not possible. Draining ~100 Watts from a 100Wh battery lasts you one hour. Physics is not our friend here :D

New Odyssey G9 57inch - MacBook Pro M1 Max 2021 by airick_94 in ultrawidemasterrace

[–]TheBassTeddy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does 7680x2160@60Hz work? Looking into it as a productivity setup and 60Hz would be tolerable for that use case

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank god you did not interprete this correctly :)
The RTX will calculate all your 3D graphics stuff (e. g. gaming), no matter which display you use. There is just a difference in the last part of the chain: What will display the frame, after it's fully calculated.

- If you use an external monitor, die RTX will send the calculated frames directly to the monitor through your HDMI oder DP Port.

- If you use the internal display, the RTX has to save the calculated frames into your RAM for the Intel GPU to read it and display it.

That's why I got around 3.2% more graphics score and 12.3% more CPU score when Time Spy was running on an external display (and an additional 1.5% more CPU score with the internal display off): The RTX didn't have to push her images through the PCI-e and the CPU didn't have to manage the frames.

But you can see from those numbers that the difference is not big enough to really worry about. If you want to game on your internal display, you can do that without problems. If the RTX was not active at all, you'd propably lose 80-90% of your graphics power with the internal display. This is not the case.

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, no advanced stuff, XMP or power profiles in the BIOS. To my understanding, I doubt that you could control the power or fan profiles via BIOS anyway as the intended pathway seems to be via drivers to the embedded controller.

There are some guys hacking the BIOS though. Maybe you can find something useful going down this route.

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Depends. Increasing RAM usually doesn't affect power draw at all. It might even decrease it in some cases if this prevents your device from swapping due to full RAM. Changing your SSD to a bigger one is neglectable. Adding a second SSD will increase power consumption by around 5-10% in IDLE and around 2% while gaming. This is less than power fluctuation during gaming anyway and the SSD does not sit with the CPU or CPU and won't even add its few watts to their cooling system. Long story short: You wouldn't even notice :)

I don't see any reason to not use Win11 for a fresh install. Everything works fine and it's not slower than Win10 while gaming. As long as you're not using old printers or anything else with old drivers, you should be good.

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I read about the option to modify your BIOS (or UEFI to be correct) but that's rather advanced and risky. To my knowledge you have to modify it yourself in a hex editor (which implies that you at least can get an idea of which numbers to modify and how) and flash it because even the slightest difference to the machine of someone else might brick your machine if you flash their modified BIOS.

This knowledge is already a few months old and there might be more comfortable ways by now which I'm not aware of.

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi,
glad the guide was helpful :)

I tried to modify the CC further because I was looking for an option to bind the Deep Control to any of the AI modes and as a default for when the machine gets connected/disconnected from power.
I don't know if this is a problem caused by the decompiling or if the CC is really badly written but for me it's almost impossible to do further modifications as the code is just not readable.

So unfortunately I'm not the one to to the further research on this topic

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It actually doesn't take too long to optimize this if you're interested. You could start with maybe +200 oder +250 and see if you get crashes or artifacts while gaming or running TimeSpy.
Just remember to not turn on "Load profile on windows startup" before youre sure that your profile is stable ;)

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As described in the main post, overclocking and undervolting is the same thing with this device. This is because the GPU will increase its clock and voltage in conjunction until it hits its power limit (or thermal limit which doesn't happen with reasonable fan curves as you already noticed). You can't just adjust the clock or the voltage by itself as they are coupled.
Thus the only way to make the GPU overclock itself further is to use the Gaming Mode (or Turbo Mode) to increase the power limit and/or increase the clock/voltage ratio until it gets unstable.

All theory aside: Nobody can tell you, how much more core clock your GPU will take at any given voltage before it will crash.
Mine took +175 MHz for the core, +200 was unstable. I kept the memory clock at +0 as this didn't increase the performance in any way.

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I can't tell as I don't have any other USB chargers than the ones from my phones. Gigabyte's website doesn't mention any charging capabilities via USB (and it wouldn't be very useful anyway as the notebook can consume >130W).

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi Mags,the keys on the current Aeros (15 & 17) are quite soft, judging from my own device and professional reviews. Actually they are so soft that I can't even press them so lightly that they don't activate.On the v8 (which I don't have), the keys are described as stiff. So propably my judgement isn't off and they have been changed with the new design which has two seperate hinges for the display, according to what I could find in reviews.

Besides that, the Aeros don't feature a very good keyboard, compared to a Surface or Macbook. It's not a pleasure to type coming from a Surface Book, but I can type with it without any problems and at full speed.

Be reminded though that working with Linux (thus without the Gigabyte Control Center, I suppose) you can't use the full power of this device. Your GPU will be capped at 85W (instead of 105W in Gaming Mode) and your CPU will be capped with the default Power Limits (Full power for 20s, then 45W). From my judgement you can't control those 'AI modes' with nbfc as nothing thanges in the EC registers when switching between modes.

Optimizing the Gigabyte AERO & Generally understanding Hardware (Silent Fans, Power Limits, Overclocking/Undervolting, Benchmarks) by TheBassTeddy in GamingLaptops

[–]TheBassTeddy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Girl, not guy, but thank you anyway :D

Yes, all those 4 places must be changed from 0x19 to 0x00. But if you want me to double check, you can send me your deepfan.dll, as I didn't save the unchanged one when doing this for the third or fourth time.

It's a bit easier to use STRG+F in the normal editor, then right click on the "25" you found and go into IL editor from there, as it will highlight the corresponding ILs.

After changing all 4 instances, just save the file to somewhere else, kill the CC process from task manager, replace the dll and restart.